I believe the newest version is 1.2. I have seen a 1.4 which is obviously a fake as well. You might simply be victim of a scammer who sold some bad boards.by dintid - Controllers
Quotearclite Thank you for all the HEATED words on this subject. I did not take the descriptions seriously to be accurate in English BUT i did not expect them to LIE OUTRIGHT on SERIOUS issues that exposed REAL DANGER! I would appreciate everybody who has made their observations of REAL DANGER to print the relevant page of the GEETECH "Brand 3D Printer Motherboard Reprap RAMPS-FD Shield Ramps 1.by dintid - Controllers
Did you check power input to ramps? Might have reversed the wires? You unplugged USB when connecting ramps to the mega?(making sure) You mention ATX and 12v psu. Is it one of those LED things? I have had several megas and never had to solder D1 on. Everything was always in place. Mayby one of your drivers are faulty or you put then In in reverse.by dintid - RAMPS Electronics
Quotedc42 Quotedintid @dc42 I Can do a duet test as Well if you send me one. It's going to be a test aimed at the "normal" user with focus on visible obvious differences in quality. Noise. Measured heat etc. There will be talks about different requirements for cabling and connectors as well. Not going to very technical, but aimed at the average normal person who might consider building a printeby dintid - Controllers
Quoteevenbor I have build a ultimaker clone and wonder what is the best controller? Like the duet, but not sure if the firmware support this printer. The touch display I mentioned which was made for mks sbase but can be used with ramps as well. They also sell a version for mks sbase only. Maybe one of those could work with duet dc42? They appeal to me a lot, and know a lot of other people feelby dintid - Controllers
Quotedc42 Quotedintid Quoteevenbor I have build a ultimaker clone and wonder what is the best controller? Like the duet, but not sure if the firmware support this printer. You can't really use pt100 sensors on duet unless you are a firmware ninja. PT100 sensor support is coming to RepRapFirmware, supporting MAX31865 boards with a digital interface to the Duet, such as and . I have one on the deby dintid - Controllers
Very nice. Expected much slower speeds. Haven't seen the YouTube yet.by dintid - Mechanics
Quotethe_digital_dentist Cantilevering the bed with one screw and two bearings/guide rails all along one side of the bed can be made to work if you're willing to use some high precision/heavy duty hardware Ultimaker and other printers are build on this formular. 12mm rods. LMK12UU square flanged bearings and an 8mm lead screw. Preferebly using an anti-backlash nut as Well. E3D has a similar deby dintid - Mechanics
What printing speed do you print at normally, and what is max movement speed? Asking as my lead screws can move much slower than belts without belts causing problems. He stretching you talked about: what kinds of belts and did you use Bowden? Should not happen with gt2 belts and Bowden for sure. Especially not on dual belt designs like Ultimaker and similar. Good work. Above us not meant as crby dintid - Mechanics
You can get an 8mm (diameter) 30cm long lead screw including brass nut for like $7. Look for TR8*8 (p2) which is the most common and thus the cheapset. Can even get an anti-backlash nut for them at only $10. TR8*8 (p2) Means 8mm diameter. One full rotation is 8mm and the pitch is 2mm. It has 4 starts. If you use a US based calculator they have the pitch at 8mm (real pitch 2mm * 4 starts=8mm)by dintid - Mechanics
Lots of closed belts around. Many places call them endless instead though. Like which sells ok quality items.by dintid - Mechanics
QuoteSuggy Intrested in the MightyFan but the postage is nearly the price of the board UK Yea.. I bought one and split shipping with a friend, as he could use the IR height sensor they also sell, which comes with "ears" to Mount on E3D fansby dintid - For Sale
QuoteBrownievtec I'm going crazy. I was getting awesome prints now all of the sudden I'm getting later shifts. I turned the speed down re adjusted the stepper drivers and make sure all belts were tight. Anyone else have any ideas yes. Try checking if your gantries (the brackets holding up the bearings for the rods) are still in good working conditions. I had the exact symptoms you describeby dintid - CoreXY Machines
Quoteevenbor I have build a ultimaker clone and wonder what is the best controller? Like the duet, but not sure if the firmware support this printer. You can't really use pt100 sensors on duet unless you are a firmware ninja.by dintid - Controllers
QuoteWZ9V The PanelDue screen/interface is way ahead of those other LCD ones. Actually you can get a very nice touchscreen made for mks sbase but compatible with ramps for 20-30 euros I'm using ramps for my um2 clones just fine. Using DIY mini oled display atmby dintid - Controllers
I assume you are using Marlin firmware? Just latching into it. I usually just feed it a G29 via USB or via Astroprint, but it would be nice having a menu option for it. One issue about adding options to the menu is the following difficulties when upgrading firmware.by dintid - Controllers
QuoteDust re 5v vs 3v... level shifting boards are a "dime a dozen"... (ok really $1USD for 4 lines ) This is really not an issue It is when the cheap board fails to down the 12-24v input to 3.3v and just puts full load through and it just blows the Electronics. In any case, such extra stuff is just not a viable way to do Things if you want to grab new customers.by dintid - RAMPS Electronics
Quotedc42 Quoterklauco Just regarding the prices... From China one can get MUCH cheaper overall solution - with all the downsides of the China production, of course. Like: - Mega 2560 R3 for 5.64EUR - RAMPS 1.4 board for 4.04 EUR - 5 stepper drivers including heatsinks for 5.47 EUR Overall cost of 15.15 EUR. Just take care about the fuses and the power source The sad thing is that an all-in-onby dintid - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteCulain Yeah well, splitting isn't an issue. The bigger problem is, that 1515 aluminum extrusions are not that easy to get in Germany. So I'm about to change everything to fit 2020 aluminums with M4 screws. May take a while since I'm not that familiar with sketchup I'm Danish, so I know the 1515 is hard to find. You should buy from motedis.de - at least their profiles are very cheap. Don'tby dintid - CoreXY Machines
Quoteatanasovgoran I don't have any pictures of the actual repair. A good picture of result with some arrows and explanations can make all the difference in the World for the rest of usby dintid - Controllers
QuoteGarry Bartsch I guess I have been very lucky never to have experienced those pause zits. I really appreciate the way you explained the issues. I'm not ready yet for electronics so have more time to gather info. Best regards .. The problems with pauses and such really isn't an issue anymore. I havn't done a proper analysis about the subject (obviously), but I don't ever see people complain abby dintid - RAMPS Electronics
Quoteatanasovgoran Replacing the regulator chip did fix the board.make an instructables about itby dintid - Controllers
Majority of people print using arduino mega and ramps combo just fine. It is still the Best supported solution with the most options anywhere. Also some descriptions for common people to understand by now. Most people do not experience pauses or problems printing using USB. I print using SD or USB from raspberry with Astroprint. I don't much like octoprint to be honest. There are lots of exciby dintid - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteCulain Hi Alexy, i recently stumbled upon your coreXY design printer. Looks very solid to me. I think i'm gonna build one myself. i just will be unable to print the top and bottom z-axis bracket since it is >190mm (my maximum print radius of my delta printer). I guess i will design some smaller ones or maybe just split them up. Looking forward to build it Edit: You think it is possibby dintid - CoreXY Machines
You connect it the same Way as a thermocoupler amplifier board. I'm currently using 2 of E3Ds pt100 boards. They do have a wiki on he subjekt as Wellby dintid - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteAlexY Yeah, I guess the bouncing shouldn't be that much of an issue, but my main concern is the threaded rod not being centered in the coupler; that might be the cause of the slight wobble in prints. The nut/coupler really shouldn't have any noticeable horizontal movement. None of mine does. Check if you have your Z-axis, rods and all totally vertical. If there is some tension you might exby dintid - CoreXY Machines
QuoteAlexY I ended up finding some metal corner brackets for 1515 extrusions on Misumi so I ordered some of those. I'll try them out when they arrive and see if they help rigidity. Also, does anyone have recommendations for a better Z-axis coupling method? The metal flex coupler allows the bed to bounce up and down a bit, and also doesn't hold the threaded rod exactly in the center. Regarding tby dintid - CoreXY Machines
I do a lot of prototyping where quality is secondary.. or tertiary. Where speed is often the primary. That said: my quality is most often flawless... by printing perimeters very slow (60mm/s) I get top quality. Regardless of wheter I do print prototyping, contruction parts or tiny parts for my children, I just can not stand waiting for more than a few minutes after each print... it just kills meby dintid - Developers
Quotethe_digital_dentist I wasn't trying to be derogatory, just pointing out that the stuff has to be available. I don't know any plainer terms than to call it what it is, at least in English. The plate is cast (not rolled or extruded), then milled flat. That's as simple as anyone can make it. If you can't find tooling plate, try finding a machinist and asking about it. Go to any town with aby dintid - Developers
Quotesarf2k4 Thank you for your reply, now I don't have to wire my arduino to usb chargers, simply from the psu, I guess it was my first post in this thread ".... voltage divider from 12v to 5v..." One last thing, any specific wire can be used? Thinking of using just a mere 26-24ga solid core wire I just use standard (here in Denmark) 0,75mm2 to 1,5mm2 wire - depending on what I have lying arouby dintid - Safety & Best Practices