Quotethe_digital_dentist QuotedintidAlso: I can't find any such things in Europe. Cast tooling plate is a raw material for any and every machine shop on the planet. I'm certain there are at least a few thousand machine shops scattered around Europe. If you can't find cast tooling plate it may be because it's called something else, but it's there and it's available. It might be the case, but Iby dintid - Developers
Quotesarf2k4 Quotedintid You Can feed it 12v just fine. I've done it for the last year. If you fint it gets too hot, you just ADD a fan to it. Some People are always overcomplicating things and believes anyone actually knows what resistive voldtage dividers are, and also believes a link to datasheet is an answer to a question. People should realize that the majority is not THAT much into Eby dintid - Safety & Best Practices
Quotethe_digital_dentist I don't get it. Everyone knows you need a flat surface to print reliably, yet so many keep buying thin, flexible aluminum and then put glass on top of it. Why do people keep buying the thin, flexible aluminum? It makes no sense. Why not just get a flat aluminum plate such as cast tooling plate in the first place and be done with it? Unlike galss, aluminum is thermallby dintid - Developers
I just pull out the filament. Sommetimes slowly. Other times fast. Sometimes at 100c ish (atomic cleaning) other times just at printning temp 210c ish. Never had any issues with plastick Getting stuck in cold end/heatbreak of my E3Dv6 full (metal). No need to overthink it.by dintid - Safety & Best Practices
Quotethe_digital_dentist I think it's important to recognize that the temperature readout may not be accurate. If it says it's 220C but it's actually 180C, you will run into problems extruding. If you have a thermocouple and a DMM you can check to see if the temperature is close to what the printer controller reports. If you don't have a thermocouple, try turning up the temperature before deciby dintid - Mechanics
Quotedc42 I did some research on this and I came to the conclusion that in order to get a 1.75mm direct drive extruder to work well, you need to get several things right: 1. A long (48mm or longer) stepper motor, assuming it is a Nema 17. Shorter motors have insufficient torque. 2. Run the stepper motor close to its rated current, e.g. at 85 or 90%. This requires the stepper motor to be carefuby dintid - Mechanics
Quotesarf2k4 Hi, I ran into slight hitch on my 3d printer, using geeetech i3b, mega2560 and ramps 1.4. I have servo based auto bed leveling. My printer somewhat doesn't want to print after probing all the 9 points of the bed and currently I need to power the mega by supplying a little bit of 5v through usb. My question is, is it okay to add in another 12v to the black power input in the mega256by dintid - Safety & Best Practices
Looks really nice. Regarding stiffness you could look at top-corners like these: (my modified top-corner brackets from the UM2 aluminium extrusion build) I made these corners to stiffen it. You might find place for them. Guess you can just scale them to 1515. Mine are 2020 Extra outer connection-brackets: try taking a look at the UM2 extrusion build where he made some brackets/plates outsideby dintid - CoreXY Machines
QuoteSkimmy visited your store, can't put things in cart with Safari, changed to chrome, put whole Displayassembly in cart, proceeded to checkout, saw 34€ shippingfee and no option to change this, closed chrome. I'm lazy and for sure would have paid 30€-40€ in total. But not 70€. Your shipping fee for such small things is ridiculous. And your store doesn't work with Safari. Have to agree on the sby dintid - Controllers
www. Lots of sniglly snaglly requirements.by dintid - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
QuoteDownunder35m If it does not stick to anything then I suggest to do the entire calibration for steps on the moving axis and the extruder. Also double check your z-height when the print starts! Many people adjust their z-endstop with a feeler gauge or postcard - this can end up bad. The printer assumes the heigth with the postcard would be zero, so it prints that amount higher into thin air. Iby dintid - Printing
I print at 210-220 when printing PLA with my E3Dv6. Try raising temperature.by dintid - Printing
Quoteusen QuoteDownunder35m You have to measure what comes out of the extruder and adjust the stepping accordingly. Works best with the cold extrusion prevent disabled in the firmware as you can play back and forth without the hotend and wasting filament. Mark the filament and extrude 10mm - measure it. It is not 10mm +-0.3mm already adjust the stepping a bit. Extrude 30mm and check again. If reqby dintid - Printing
Quoteo_lampe What do you mean with " Vanilla installations" ? Did you try to copy&paste some configuration.h from elsewhere? That wouldn't work since a few variables got new names and different meanings/behavior. You'd have to go through each line and knit your own config.h and config_adv.h -Olaf Vanilla = From scratch = from zero Regarding copy/paste: No. I do know how to setup firmware. Iby dintid - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Quoteyogesh.dp Even I am facing same issue. Currently, I am using Arduino mega2560 + ramps 1.4 + a4988 with marlin firmware for my DLP 3D printer. It has one stepper motor for Z axis movement, no endstops (willing to add it later) & haven't done any changes to marlin firmware. If anybody have solution for this please help. thanks You need to download Pronterface/printrun or some other host-by dintid - RAMPS Electronics
Quotedc42 After running auto level and before or when moving the head around, are you setting a feed rate (F parameter in the G1 command)? The last move that the auto level procedure did may have been a Z move with a low speed, and if you send a G1 command with no F parameter after that, you will get the same low speed. Forget that - I see that you don't even need to run the auto level operationby dintid - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Make sure your endstops are configured correctly: Then make sure your motion direction is setup correctly as well:by dintid - RAMPS Electronics
I know you managed to solve it, but I'll pipe in anyway Recently made an Instructables on how to configure endstops. Using everyday language and not Electronics talk: Configuring Endstops on Ramps 1.4 with Marlin firmware - @section homing Al so JUST made the follow up Motion Configuration on Ramps 1.4 with Marlin firmware @section machine to it. Also in everyday language Regarding endstopsby dintid - RAMPS Electronics
I had the same issue, which was due to Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER i can see you have set all three offsets at 0. Try configuring them, and see if it fixes the issue On my UM2 clone, with an IR sensor on front, I have the following // these are the offsets to the probe relative to the extruder tip (Hotend - Probe) // X and Y offsets must be integers #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDERby dintid - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Quotedgm3333 @dintid: Not sure why you're necro posting with irrelevant abuse on a post a year out of date. However I still stand by my statement that the original post by prashantdshinde which hijacked the thread appeared to be totally lazy as he/she appeared to have not bothered to do even basic google research which would have answered his question far more quickly than posting on the forum.by dintid - Developers
QuoteTraumflug Quotedgm3333and as there are no entries it means you will quite possibly be the first. Having something like 200 of these SevenSwitches shipped, it's very unlikely he's the first. As said, people couldn't care less to make a photo of what they did. That's how the RepRap community works (does not work). True. Sadly. And when people ask for help they are dismissed by know it alls thby dintid - Developers
Quoteo_lampe How do you know the controller isn't sampling the sensor? -Olaf Regarding sensor sampling The printer becomes slow as soon as the firmware with auto-level enabled is uploaded. I do not need to run G29 command first... the printer is simply just slow when the firmware with auto-level enabledis uploaded to it.by dintid - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Quoteo_lampe How do you know the controller isn't sampling the sensor? From what I've experienced with marlins dev firmware, they seem to focus on Cartesian printers. Deltas and coreXY are last to be supported/debugged. Thinkyhead doesn't even have a delta to test his ABL-code :/ -Olaf I don't know except the bed is so far Down the sensor gets no new information. My printer IS Cartesian. I doby dintid - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Quoteo_lampe Quotedintid Quotepengpengpete Where in the world would I find that? Thanks a lot, it works! Enif actually said it, but it can be a Little hard when you do not know what he talks about Upload new firmware to your printer as you always do. Connecto to printer using Pronterfae, Repetier or similar program where you can issue Terminal commands (gcodes) Send code M500 to the pritner -by dintid - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Quotepengpengpete Thanks a lot for further elaborating. Now I understand what I was doing I guess all the information can be found on the reprap Wiki pages or here in the forum. It's just hard sometimes to find the specific information for the specific setup I have at home. Couldn't agree more. It can be very difficult finding the relevant information, and when you do find it, it can be reallyby dintid - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Quoteo_lampe Is it configured to make the head follow an uneven bed? Then the IR sensor would be sampled a lot during any move. What if the bed is out of reach for the sensor? Did you confuse mm/s and mm/min? Some variables like homing feedrate are in mm/min. -Olaf Follow uneven bed: There is no such feature as far as I know? In any case: I have looked closely and touched the Z axis while movingby dintid - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Quotejean-baptiste Thanks for your answer o_lampe ! The problem is that I am using the Ultimaker modificated version for the Ultiboard but It's a new printer, not the real ultimaker printer. Convert the original marlin version to be totaly compatible with the Ultiboard (screen, new feature on the board,etc...) is I think more complicated than re-add the auto-leveling feature in this modificatedby dintid - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I have Googled up and down, and searched on the forums and on Github Issues, and havn't found a similar thread, so I hope I'm not asking something that has allready been solved. Printer configuration Printer type: UM2 clone type (my source) - I have made lots of changes, but that is not relevant for this issue. Controller: Arduino Mega 2560 R3 + Ramps 1.4 -- Modded to 24vIR-Sensor: I'm using DCby dintid - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Quotepengpengpete Where in the world would I find that? Thanks a lot, it works! Enif actually said it, but it can be a Little hard when you do not know what he talks about Upload new firmware to your printer as you always do. Connecto to printer using Pronterfae, Repetier or similar program where you can issue Terminal commands (gcodes) Send code M502 to the pritner - this one loads the firmwaby dintid - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Nice products. A shame how it blocks some pins though as I really need most of them for sensors and boards and stuff. I would love to see one with fan outputs on the underside of the pcb with horizontal connectors to reduze Z-height of the assembly. Keep up the good Work!by dintid - For Sale