the brass nut for 10mm is too big, I have the flange nut and the flange is 32mm diameter, the smooth rod is in the way, unless I draw new top and bottom as well as x end and x motor, otherwise its not possible to fit them, I do have 4 nuts and springs to make the anti backlash though. but the pla parts have no backlash at all so far....by deaconfrost - General
it is very likely the problem is to do with the extrusion rate, do triple check and see, I did mine twice and it was a bit off the first time I done mine ps, and I definitely not using 1mm/s acceleration 150mm/s is doable, but i never tried to go fast on outer parameter but inner it flies, I will push it further with full leadscrew drives but im moving away from prusaby deaconfrost - Printing
yea I only though of that when I printed out the idler and in the middle of printing the motor mount now, a bit late I be building a different design altogether after putting the leadscrew on, just so I have a perfect 190mm height for the parts I need to print, it be a 300mm x 300mm x 400mm print area with full leadscrew drive. anti backlash on all axisby deaconfrost - General
did you turn the nozzle all the way in then loosen a bit and tighten the heat break? or how far away is the nozzle to the block? I tighten mine all the way in then I lossen it just when the first dimple reach the corner, less than 1mm gap, I have the genuine v6 tho, maybe your nozzle is different other than that and the PTFE tube, I don't think of any thing else right now, if the PTFE tube doesby deaconfrost - Printing
here's what I have set in marlin for stepping and speed are you using stock extruder mounted on x carriage with groove bearing? I'm using greg's wade with bowden on the E3D v6 I had similar problem on wall due to extruder stepping if you still on stock extruder, that would be first place to start, slow down and print yourself a gear extruder like greg's wade or go bowden just noticed you usiby deaconfrost - Printing
its a good fit, smooth easy to turn no backlash, hope it last a while going to draw the new parts to allow me to use a brass nut just in case the PLA get soften, but with such little movements on the Z axis Im hoping it won't come to that printed at 0.1mm layer height without supportby deaconfrost - General
I don't really know what type of glue they maybe, but worked well for me than the glue I have tried, especially with abs, first time i printed big object with abs without lift is when I tried that stuff, its cheap and I though I give it a go since I was getting something from that seller anyway.by deaconfrost - Printing
thanks for the tip, Im going to use it on the Z axis so there be very little movement, hopefully it last long enough till I get my new design finished, if not I just have to go back to the old parts, I can't use the brass nut on this without making Z top Z bottom and new X idler and motor mount as it is an i3, finger crossedby deaconfrost - General
it is better to fix it yourself in 3D modelling application, the auto fix don't do it right a lot of the times I findby deaconfrost - Printing
I made some 10mm leadscrew nuts with PLA, 80% infill, it seems very solid and doesn't look like it would wear too fast, I think I will try that on a Mega i3 with 10mm leadscrew which I already have anyone else tried using PLA for this? how long did it last before you need to replace the nut? when I turn the nut on the leadscrew it doesn't feels like it would wear any time soon, but again, I nevby deaconfrost - General
if you going for the i3, build the mega i3 instead, it about the same money as buying the i3 kit thats half the size, I bought the mega i3 printed kit on ebay and bought the rest of the material in local hardware store, have the printer almost finished its costing me 150 so far without the hotend and electronics yet, im transferring everything from my small i3 to it so it is only costing me 150 dby deaconfrost - General
the only thing I can tell you is I worked my way up slowly adjusting the settings starting fom 40mm/s and observe the changes of the result and adjust, again and again and again, think it was about 3 to 4 weeks of trying different settings and layer heights before I got to the result I feel acceptable.by deaconfrost - Printing
good choice to go for the real deal, I have had no jam since I got mine, as long as it is all setup correctly, I don't think you get any headache at all, I didn't and still haven'tby deaconfrost - General
you have the Z stepping calibrated properly? and extruder stepping. it looks like theres a problem on every part of the printed object rather than just the circular partby deaconfrost - Printing
if your first layer isn't sticking, I found a solution for myself, maybe useful for you I use this stuff, its cheap and worked really well as advertised, I tried all 3 material they listed and all worked out perfect, 8 euro a pack goes a long way, I used just little under half the pack and I got 40+ prints out of it so far, with the biggest part being 185mm x 185mm x 185mm in size, not exactly aby deaconfrost - Printing
I use this stuff, its cheap and worked really well as advertised, I tried all 3 material they listed and all worked out perfect, 8 euro a pack goes a long way, I used just little under half the pack and I got 40+ prints out of it so far, with the biggest part being 185mm x 185mm x 185mm in size, not exactly a square box but it was that big, start to finish not a single lift can't find link I bouby deaconfrost - Printing
I use this stuff, its cheap and worked really well as advertised, I tried all 3 material they listed and all worked out perfect, 8 euro a pack goes a long way, I used just little under half the pack and I got 40+ prints out of it so far, with the biggest part being 185mm x 185mm x 185mm in size, not exactly a square box but it was that big, start to finish not a single lift can't find link I bouby deaconfrost - Printing
I use this stuff, its cheap and worked really well as advertised, I tried all 3 material they listed and all worked out perfect, 8 euro a pack goes a long way, I used just little under half the pack and I got 40+ prints out of it so far, with the biggest part being 185mm x 185mm x 185mm in size, not exactly a square box but it was that big, start to finish not a single lift can't find link I bouby deaconfrost - Printing
its not only PETG, my ABS did the same, don't think its material related, happened to 2 of my borosilicate glass, I haven't been bothered with glass since, just print straight on the MK3 bed with solution I bought on ebay for 8 euro, not a bit of lift, no more broken glass. it stick even better than the glassby deaconfrost - Printing
I print abs with bed at 100c plus start to finish and 245c to 250c on hotend, but without a fan running between 30% to 40% from 3rd layer up there was no way my print ever finish without curling from 4th layer up, first layer is easy to me, I bought some printing paste off ebay for 8 euro, lasted 40 plus print still have more than half the pack left, I als have an enclosure made from foam padsby deaconfrost - Printing
I printed this with FolgerSHIT i3 as well but at 150mm/s, but MK3 bed, Genuine E3D v6, Greg Wade Bowden Drive, and use newer firmware configured from scratch with autobed leveling enabled I have't tried any faster yet, 150mm/s is good enough for me for now p.s. leadscrew upgrade and this and that, its not really a FolgerSHIT anymore TBH and that hammer was printed with ABS by the wayby deaconfrost - Printing
my folgerShit i3 hotned fall apart too during print, kinda steered me away from cheap knock off and I went for the genuine E3D v6 bought direct from them in UK, just to make sure I get the real thing, I couldn't be happier to be honest, I did a 0.03mm print on a small little ball, that never happened with the FolgerShit, be lucky to get a clean print let alone such high res.by deaconfrost - General
a little late to reply to this, a company in Ireland is releasing a printer frame kit for around 500 euro without electronics but all mechanical parts, like a ultimaker style with no belts, dual hotend ready witha print volume of 300mm x 300mm x 360mmby deaconfrost - General
Your heat bed on z axis. You sure the z motors steps are correct?by deaconfrost - Printing
cool thanks I get one now gonna get some other bits for the new frame while I'm there if they have themby deaconfrost - Printing
Thanks for the replies. I think I buy that one from reprapteile now ☺ ps... sold outby deaconfrost - Printing
any body used this type of hobbed bolt? ? its giving me a hard time if I was to do a long print, it seems the thread of the bolt is pushing the filament to one side regardless the groove is lined up with the guide. i'm going to get this one to replace it [:AAQ:GB:1123" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">www.ebay.co.uk] hopefully that sort out the problem, what my hobbed bolt doing is it have aby deaconfrost - Printing