I decided to print a duet case and for some reason the edges are curved. So its not an exact square. I have attached pictures. This did not occur when I printed my RAMPS box? Any ideas.by DRTak - Delta Machines
yeah the fan shroud over the hotend heatsink? I must be confused then?by DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteMrPCatt good point actually.... does anybody have a good cooling solution for our kits (and hotends) ? Most solutions I found either are made for different heatsink diameters or are to big overall costing way to much printspace on the edges. Or both And does it matter having a fan blowing to the noozle? Or do I have to make sure only have the fan hitting the object itself? This is an exactby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteTha_Reaper QuoteDRTak DO NOT put the RAMPS below the heatbed. I did that and I fried my MOSFET. Why? Because you cannot see the fan moving and blowing air. Yes I installed a fan below the heatbed blowing onto my RAMPS. It looks amazing. All electronics hidden. But you cannot see or hear if the fan is on. If for some reason the fan is off. Your RAMPS will smoke and you will not know until itby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteHaGeEm Thanks for your reply, hacker! Quotehacker The horizontal dimension is based on the parts involved in the first place and is set to theoretical value and if you still have some concave/convex problems you adjust it during the calibration. I think that's one of the things that they got right in firmware. Regarding calibration of the printer geometry I guess I'll just adjust the rod lby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteGrAndAG Today I did very first print. It works! Here it is the 1x1x1cm test cube: The bottom layer is a bit junky because the filament was just inserted and the extrusion was not started at very beginning. But why the corners are round a bit? Is it normal? And it seems it over-extruded (but I calibrated extruder precisely: 100mm requested - 100mm got). The settings was: PLA @ 200C, layerby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteTha_Reaper QuoteSir_Death QuoteTha_Reaper Sintron offered me a new PSU. I dint expect that. the service is really incredible for a HK seller. I asked if they could send a 20A version, and they agreed for 10 dollar more. Good deal, good service. parts quality may not be premium grade (as should have been expected for this price), but i'm still happy i bought this set. More important is theby DRTak - Delta Machines
Hacker. Why is your kossel loudER now with duet?by DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 QuoteDRTak So If I upgrade to a duet then I have to buy your Panel DUE to get LCD function right? Currently the only LCD supported by RepRapFirmware is the PanelDue. That's because when I sounded out Duet users about providing an LCD display, although I intended to do a low-cost mono graphics one, the overwhelming response I got was that folks would rather spend more and have a colourby DRTak - Delta Machines
Heat hotend to 190 ish for PLA. Then you can manually push filament through to see if it works. The lcd screen has a panic switch which u can use to kill the process. I use this all the time To replace filament. Heat hotend. Manually pull out old filament once hotend is up to the correct temp. and replace with different color. The printer is basically a CNC machine with a glue gun attachedby DRTak - Delta Machines
So If I upgrade to a duet then I have to buy your Panel DUE to get LCD function right?by DRTak - Delta Machines
So If I dont use an Arduino Ramps. How do I use my Kossel? What other system can run it. I already changed from Pronterface to Repetier software wise. But the pre made Marlin firmware with Arduino works. I asked James from Sintron what other system I could use and he didnt respond? If there was a more reliable system I would gladly use it. I really liked the idea that its a stand alone sysby DRTak - Delta Machines
I think the PSU has just enough power. When I power my heatbed and hotend it takes a bit of time for ABS. But for PLA its fine. I ran into a big problem today. My RAMPs got fried. I tried using NO PC just the LCD. It was fine the other day when it was really cold 44 deg in the garage. But today it heated up a bit and I forgot that without a Laptop to run the Kossel you have to manually turn on tby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteMrPCatt QuoteDRTak I would never know what I know now if I had just bought a pre assembled printer. I actually think I would be bored with the whole idea. But part of the fun and frustration is figuring out calibration and fine tuning. Thats the reason I decided to go with a kit instead of buying something out of the box. Its all about introducing myself into the matter of 3D printing. Theby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteMrPCatt Guys, thank you for your help! So i measured several things again and uploaded a new firmware, mounted a fresh roll of PLA and now I wanted to give it a try to see if I am even close to print something (without Z-Probe). BUT The filament is not coming out of the nozzle. Its just dripping ever so slightly, never ever enough to draw a line or so. The extruder motor is just stuttering bby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteMrPCatt Hello everybody, I also purchased this kit. Unfortunately before I found this thread. I wouldn't if I had seen all the problems before. After a lot of pain mounting and cabling the thing together with its useless manual its finally done with a lot of help from this thread I used all parts provided in the kit and grinded down the rods so they move freely and don't bound and jam to eby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 You don't need to change Marlin at all to use the IR probe. Use the same firmware configuration that you would use for a normally closed microswitch, i.e. active high signal and pullup resistor enabled. See the instructions I linked to earlier for what bed surfaces do and don't work with the IR sensor. Ok. Im very interested but I have a silly question. I have always wanted to do theby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 You might also want to consider using my IR probe instead of the mechanical one. See for details. I have been hesitant on the IR probe for one reason. I do not know how to program my Marlin firmware to accept the IR signal? Can you give us the code?by DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteSir_Death QuoteDRTak Ha. Thats the same issue I had. And your unit is perfect. I forgot to mention. I also changed the perimeter to 1mm and that fixed my sizing issue as well. I'm using Slic3r - where do you change the Perimeter to 1mm? Print Settings > Advanced > Perimeters However, I have since changed it back to default 0. At 1 the walls are very weak. Also, I noticed that Iby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteSir_Death Quotenebbian Thanks Sir Death I'm printing those perimeters at 40 mm/s (20 mm/s for external perimeters, but all of them are delaminating), with a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.1mm layer height. The level of detail is really nice, repeatability is excellent, the only concern is that I might be getting a bit too hot. If you say that it's normal then I'll just shrug my shoulders and acceptby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian DrTak, I've found that the most reliable way to calibrate the output size is to measure your diagonal rods as precisely as you can. You need to measure from the centre of the round ball to the centre of the other round ball. Plug that number in, and then calibrate the smooth rod offset so that you get a flat print surface. Then you're DONE with adjusting those measurements. No mby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker Quoteo_lampe @nebbian Sorry for OT, but could you put the sloppy Traxxas joints in cooking water for 10mins. and let them cool down in it? We used to do that with all plastic parts back in RC-Car days... I´d like to know, if the slop is gone by the treatment.. THX -Olaf I ordered two sets and some 5-6 turned out sloppy. Treatment fixed approximately half them.Three are still sloppy.by DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteTha_Reaper I have it moving! took me a while to figure out some error messages, and a bug that caused the printer to shut down immediately because of too high temperature (turns out thermocouplers are set as default.... Just one thing: When the printhead moves to the edge of the print area, my printer emits a noise like its having a severe asthma attack. pretty high pitched wheezing... is iby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotetheda1 I to had this problem..cheap 30 Amp Car relay did the trick and 20 Amp wire (so it does not heat up and become resistive) Aurduino board operates the relay with Thermister operating Arduino board so temp stays good and No more big Loads on the Ramps or Arduino I still had to wind up the Power Supply to 13.6 volts to get 100 Degrees My RAMPS smoked. The poly fuses are terrible and I diby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteKoenig QuoteDRTak Still calibrating. I changed my DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT back to 80 for x y and z. Re calibrated. Then used the info on that delta printer calibration site and changed my DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD_LENGTH. So I increased this value of diagn rod which is supposed to decrease the size of the object. Results. Now my cube is exactly 10mm in height. But the x and y are still 10.5mby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian QuoteDRTak Thats exactly what I did. I was wondering why Sintron gave us 3 springs. So I made a bed which you can level and it has helped me a lot. I actually had to go to hardware store and buy bigger bolts and bigger springs. Now I can adjust the bed angle to match my hotend. Yes it is a bit tilted and its not related to concave or convex surface. For some reason my hotend likesby DRTak - Delta Machines
Still calibrating. I changed my DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT back to 80 for x y and z. Re calibrated. Then used the info on that delta printer calibration site and changed my DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD_LENGTH. So I increased this value of diagn rod which is supposed to decrease the size of the object. Results. Now my cube is exactly 10mm in height. But the x and y are still 10.5mm in size? So I made aby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian Heya Reaper, I put a 3mm screw through the heatbed, then onto that I put: A spring A small washer A larger washer Loctite A T nut Repeat for a total of 3 of these adjustment stacks. This allows you to level the bed by adjusting the screws. The loctite allows you to turn the screw a quarter turn anticlockwise, and the T nut will pop out of the extrusion. So you can remove and reby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteTha_Reaper How did everyone fix/clip/screw his printbed to the structure? EDIT: And i'm a little confused by the printhead assembly and how its supposed to fit onto the effector. the manual just seems to skip that whole part. Well I learned a lesson on this topic. I emailed Sintron and they sent me a pic and it is not what everyone else is showing. I first listened to what they said aby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteKoenig Quotehacker QuoteKoenig Quotehacker QuoteDRTak QuoteGrAndAG QuoteDRTak #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100, 100, 100, 95} AFAIR, in our config should be specified 80 steps per mm for XYZ due to 20 teeth pulleys we have. 100 is for 16 teeth pulleys. You can check it in calculator. Meanwhile I have a question - what the correct voltage reference should be set on drivers for ouby DRTak - Delta Machines