Checked the config file and the x y and z motors come up as 1000mA. I do not see any reading for the E motor?by DRTak - Delta Machines
I dont understand how it can be my extruder motor. I have not had this problem before. It only occured after I finished printing the 5 to 6hr print. After that all of my other prints with PLA have looked like that picture. If I do the print for say 3hrs. It will have bands. Starts off good. Then under extrusion. The good. Then finishes with under extrusion. How do I check the current in config?by DRTak - Delta Machines
Need help. I was printing a large file. 6hrs long. It printed fine in PLA. But now when I go to print anything it prints like below? The bottom is perfect so to speak. But I would say 30min into any print, the top part gets choppy like the picture and see through? I dont understand. I can only assume the nozzle is clogged or partially clogged. But I checked the flow and it looks great. I am at aby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteDRTak Ive been hoarding dessicant from food products. They have them in protein shake jugs, candy, etc. I put like 10-20 packs of those in an "air" tight tupper ware bowl and toss in the spool of PLA/ PETG. I doubt the tupperware or ziploc container is really air tight. But it does the trick. I have noticed that some of the dessicant pellets turning yellow. So moisture is beingby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteDRTak With PETG and PLA my spools are contained in dessicant. However, I didnt use dessicant when I first started and PLA was very brittle before and after a print. PETG I heard is worse than PLA with water absorption but I again am not taking any chances and store my PETG in a vat of dessicant. I'm trying to store my stuff with dessicant, but I'm not good at being very consisteby DRTak - Delta Machines
Ok. I see your argument for PLA warping or not. I do not have experience with nylon. My assessment is based on the melting point of nylon. I also I have only read about nylon's issues with humidity and water absorption. No experience with it personally. I dont want to pay the extra for nylon bridge. I have read my reviews and PETG and nylon bridge are comparible. Both are somewhat flexible. Buby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteJamesK QuoteDRTak How did you verify that your thermistor was the correct temp? I cannot figure out how? Do you aim the IR thermometer at the heatbreak? I compared the thermistor readings against the K-type thermometer. I'm assuming that the K-type performs according to spec, which may be a bit of a leap, but what can you do. The hotend is too small to get reliable readings with the IR therby DRTak - Printing
My original Sintron Kossel hotend aluminum heater block broke. So instead of replacing it I bought a new different hotend. I searched the net and looked for a unique one. ie Not E3D I opted for the Hexagon Hotend. Its all metal and has a unique heatsink. Its the heatsink and the connection of the heatbreak tube to the heatsink that is different. It connects to the aluminum heaterblock the same asby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteDRTak Well either way, the plain fact in my usage is that ABS warps from heat creep of the heatsink. PETG does not. I assume at a higher temp. Maybe beyond 260 deg C that PETG would start to warp. This plain fact is what I was aiming at, because I was under impression that printed effector is no good, not ABS effector. You didn't really say that. Now I have some picture… I undeby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker Quoteo_lampe Quotehacker Quoteo_lampe Warping parts made of ABS is related rather to a bigger expansion coefficient than melting temp differences ( compared to PETG.) Yeah, thought of that too. Are you dead sure or do you hypothesize? It's a known fact that ABS has a high expansion coefficient. That's why we put ( heated ) enclosures around the printer to keep the temp difference asby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteDRTak Quotehacker QuoteDRTak Yeah. just changing material. But on another note. I am having major issues printing in PLA. For me PETG is easier to print with. It seems that I cant get enough heated filament out of the nozzle. Doesnt make sense. Oddly, this is a new nozzle and is exactly 0.4mm. My older hotend I mistakenly bore out too much and it was like a 1mm hole. Of courseby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteDRTak Yeah. just changing material. But on another note. I am having major issues printing in PLA. For me PETG is easier to print with. It seems that I cant get enough heated filament out of the nozzle. Doesnt make sense. Oddly, this is a new nozzle and is exactly 0.4mm. My older hotend I mistakenly bore out too much and it was like a 1mm hole. Of course with that nozzle I wasby DRTak - Delta Machines
Yeah. just changing material. But on another note. I am having major issues printing in PLA. For me PETG is easier to print with. It seems that I cant get enough heated filament out of the nozzle. Doesnt make sense. Oddly, this is a new nozzle and is exactly 0.4mm. My older hotend I mistakenly bore out too much and it was like a 1mm hole. Of course with that nozzle I was able to run my extrudeby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteDRTak Quotehacker QuoteDRTak Your PETG effector should have been better than the ABS one? It has a higher melting point? Well as I said. The heat from my heatsink crept up and melted my ABS effector. The only issue I have with my metal effector is that it is not forgiving when you have a homing error. My IR sensor was tilted out too far and it didnt detect the glass plate. Soby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteDRTak Your PETG effector should have been better than the ABS one? It has a higher melting point? Well as I said. The heat from my heatsink crept up and melted my ABS effector. The only issue I have with my metal effector is that it is not forgiving when you have a homing error. My IR sensor was tilted out too far and it didnt detect the glass plate. So it rammed into the bedby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteDRTak Thanks hacker. I really like them. I had 3 choices. That is all that exists really. 1. These metal corners which I assume are made in china. Everyone sells these. ebay option 2. A custom USA one that is exceedingly expensive. But I think they are very very strong and foolproof. ebay listing 3. ABS molded ones. I opted not for the abs ones b/c I fear they will melt like my pby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian DrTak, I like those feet! I also really like the way you've got a power button on board. That's planned for mine, but hasn't happened yet. I've got all the parts for this fire suppression system, but haven't yet printed up a holder for it: Yeah. Nebbian your feet corners are nice. I added what you said. Its rubber feet. I had some furniture movers laying around with a rubber basby DRTak - Delta Machines
How did you verify that your thermistor was the correct temp? I cannot figure out how? Do you aim the IR thermometer at the heatbreak?by DRTak - Printing
So today I realize why peoples PETG does not stick to the glass plate. I bought a new hotend with a new different thermistor. I have no way of testing the settings for the thermistor. Its supposed to be a EPCOS 100K generic thermistor. But I do not know if its a 1k or 4.7k pullup. After various testing, I could not get the filament to stick to the bed. I figured out that the hotend was not hotby DRTak - Printing
Quotehacker Nice one. The "old" one isn't old enough to be sintron. Carriages are black, paneldue doesn't look sintronish too ;-) Yeah you are right. That was my partial upgrade. The panel due and duet on top with wires hanging out everywhere. Now with nebbians feet/corner extension and your underbed brackets it looks cleaner. And yeah. The partial upgrade in that pic included ABS molded carriagby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quoteade2 Is your thermistor reporting room temperature correctly? CHeck your connection to the arduino board/ ramps setup.by DRTak - Prusa i3 and variants
Well as promised, I finally found time to take pics of my "NEW" Sintron Kossel. The only remaining Sintron printed part is the Red extruder motor holder. It hasnt broken yet. I gave it an aluminum industrial look. All metal effector, all metal mounting plate, All metal Hexagon hotend, Custom IR holder for the hexagon. Found a stainless steel plate laying around so that is what I used toby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteStrikerofDeath hi! i don't have any printer, but i have some robotic knowledge and community of 3d printer's is big help, i think seriously? he sell the printer like 200mm of impression diameter and it only makes 160mm? Well, for me, Im glad I went the Sintron route. Even though the machine is completely not sintron anymore with the exception of 2020 rods. I would not be able to fix thisby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quoteamigob I constanly see that at the beginning and and if an extruded line I have to much filament. So I was wondering are extruded amounts synced with the movement acceleration ? So not only with speed. Or should I match these movement accelerations with extrusion acceleration my self ? I use Repetier You might need to find the retraction rate settings. Adjust that so you do not get too muby DRTak - Printing
QuoteMrBaz Using MakerGeeks PETG 60*C bed 250*C hotend I have verified my temps with an IR temp gun - max 3* deviation. Sticks just fine to clean glass mirror. I have to pry up the corners a little and work around the edges of large surface area prints with a razor blade to get them to loosen. Nothing worrisome so far. Exactly. PETG likes glass. My settingss: Brand: Alchement 73*C bed 238*by DRTak - Printing
Quotehacker Actually, with e3d hotend, at least with original e3d fan shroud there's very little danger that effector will warp, even the lowest heatsink fins are cold to touch at all times. And I only replaced effector due to my insatiable appetite for improvements and urge to design ;-) That might be the issue. The Sintron must be clones. If the fan goes out then the heat creeps up to the effeby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteCrisCG My Sintron effector warped as well. I got a ABS effector now, with the e3d v6 hotend. CrisCG. Really yours warped too. How did you find out? Were you getting odd prints and you checked? I have ABS moulded carriages which is fine because no real heat goes there. But Im afraid to buy, print, or have ABS printed/molded effector since I am going to experiment with exotic filaments. Andby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quoteamigob I tried everything ( different heights, different temperatures ( PETG and bed ), different flow rates ), to get the PETG stick to the glass but it just didn't. And really it doesn't stick at all. So I gave up on that, I printed the x carrier, again last night, and really with the pray, it sticks extreme, and lifting the brim after cooldown pop and it is of. I am so confident inby DRTak - Printing
Quoteamigob I found a good solution for me for the first layer of PETG - every thing sticks direly to the bed - no strings any more on the first layer - sticks very well after cool down ( used 90 degrees bed ) first experience removing the finished product, couldn't get it loss :-{ even not with a pliers. But lifting the brim with a knife and plop it was loss :-) I sprayed the glass platby DRTak - Printing
Well I decided to buy a Hexagon hotend. I wanted all metal with one single heat barrel tube. I disassembled the old hotend from the effector and tried to put the hexagon on it. But it wasnt fitting right. So I took a birds eye view and the Sintron red printed effector is warped. This would explain why I couldnt get accurate printed parts. So that means my machine is down again. This time I willby DRTak - Delta Machines