So my Sintron Kossel cracked. I was auto leveling the bed and for some reason it decided to ram itself into the glass bed. I hit stop. But I heard something snap. I looked and couldnt find the issue. I tried to auto level and noticed the z side was messed up. I looked at the upper corner frame and the Z corner cracked. For now I have tightened the screw as much as possible but its still loose. Iby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteElectric ant Why is it that every time I try to start a print, the bed heats up ok, then the print head drops to (Slic3r is set to) 50mm and heats up fine. then every time the print head moves to the top right corner, the X axis comes down as far as it can go (this pushes the head over the edge of the bed) and then the Z axis drops to.......... it wants to go below the bed level but I pressby DRTak - Delta Machines
I have tried this since I cannot find slow down toggle in slic3r. Printing PETG on 87deg bed. With Fan and without Fan. I see no difference. I still get the picture on the left. But for my prints, the most bubbly warping is on the opposite wall. Can you please tell me where the settings are for "minimum layer time" in slicer? And how you input the numbers? I found cooling thresholds and setby DRTak - Printing
QuoteZedsquared Just reporting on on my printbite experience with PETG, again no real problems. I run the bed at 70C and it grips fine, the only difference it it doesn't release quite as completely as ABS and PLA seem to when the bed has cooled. It's still easy to remove the part though. I ran the bed at 110C with PETG once (accidentally used an ABS gcode file) and that was solidly stuck on untilby DRTak - General
QuoteBigkahuna2187 Whats the best way to adjust this? I have to agree with "what are the diagonal stripes" question. I think you doubled up on the blue tape where the wrench handle is. This makes the z height taller than the rest of the bed? From the picture it looks like you partially taped vertically then in some areas diagonally. But not really sure. Either way your bed isnt level.by DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteCrisCG Hi everybody. Here's a video of what happens with the Sintron supplied rods, the ends rub against each other -> Click here. Sintron support insists that they don't interfere. Those steel rods have a lot of play, they're not as stiff as the carbon tube + traxxas ends, wich i recently switched to. Yep thats the sintron rods. Its been discussed here before. Some people have made sinby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe QuoteDRTak anyone try printing with taulmann Bridge nylon on the kossel. I am going to buy some filament since I want an indestructable part. My kids break all of the PLA and ABS toys I make them. ABS can be cured with acetone to make it durable like LEGO. Don't keep the acetone in kids range I used up all of my abs cuz of the smell. I switched to PETG. I found a blog that describy DRTak - Delta Machines
I think logically you would have to make the mold out of something other than PLA. So make it out of ABS which has a higher melting point. Then u can use a 3D pen to use and "inject" plastic into the mold. This might work.by DRTak - General
anyone try printing with taulmann Bridge nylon on the kossel. I am going to buy some filament since I want an indestructable part. My kids break all of the PLA and ABS toys I make them.by DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotegkr Hello Experts, Since the current topic appears to be related to calibration... I never got the Auto-Z-Probe to work properly, and had a few instances when the z-probe unexpectedly engaged in the middle of a print. So, when I switched over to the E3D Hot-end, I removed the Z-probe altogether, and ended up manually calibrating the print-bed (mounted on springs) as much as I could. Nby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteCrisCG This is what's happening: look here I agree with the rest. The probe is sticking or not deployed. I was able to get my probe to work correctly. I even fixed the issue when the probe cuts into the heatbed because it goes to low before auto retracting by adjusting the marlin firmware. However, I am now using IR probe.by DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteGrAndAG QuoteDRTak I have a 2nd thermistor on the heatsink itself and it reads 100deg C. Hm... My heatsink is about 45C, I think. Because I can easily touch it by hand and it's definitely colder than heat-bed @ 60C. And I do not have fan shroud (I use stock mount way). Interesting. Maybe it's cold in your room? I see all the comments and yes. I think the only reason my heastiby DRTak - Delta Machines
Right now I have a a heatsink fan on full. I only heat my hotend to 240 for PETG and it works fine. I have a 2nd thermistor on the heatsink itself and it reads 100deg C. Still hot but not that bad. The heatsink shroud is made of ABS so well below the metling point of ABS.by DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker Quotenebbian Quotehacker Sounds like it can go close to 300 then, right? I wouldn't go that high, most I'd go would be 265. But then again I scare easily Theoretically, I mean ;-) I think I only heated it up to 290 or even 295 for hot-tightening, but I did try printing PETG at 270 for the speed sake and it worked ;-) Of course it also depends on heatsink cooling (as I said I useby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteDRTak Quotehacker QuoteDRTak Quotehacker QuoteDRTakI have included pictures. The black bed is beautiful! I also want to include pictures… and …these z-artefacts, do you know where they come from? Is that the ripples because of the belts (mine aren't twisted) you were talking about, or should I look elsewhere? Im no pro but that looks good to me. I would accept those markby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteDRTak Quotehacker QuoteDRTakI have included pictures. The black bed is beautiful! I also want to include pictures… and …these z-artefacts, do you know where they come from? Is that the ripples because of the belts (mine aren't twisted) you were talking about, or should I look elsewhere? Im no pro but that looks good to me. I would accept those marks. LOL. At least its aby DRTak - Delta Machines
I cannot wait for the new board. I am using the 0.6 Duet and see no need to jump to 0.8.5. However, I might con myself into buying the Duet NG if it has more advantages. I also would like larger on board connectors for the heatbed and hotend. And the big reason for me to jump to 0.8.5 would be that there is an onboard Paneldue link and an onboard IR board link (it is assumed the duet ng will haby DRTak - Duet
Well with my new setup I had my first hiccup. I enclosed the PSU inside of my enclosure. I think it got too hot in there. The entire system shut down after 30min. After I took the cover off, the system auto rebooted itself. I tried a smaller print that only took 19min and this didnt happen. When I tried to print something that was supposed to take 1hr, at the 30min mark it shut down. So doing anoby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteDRTakI have included pictures. The black bed is beautiful! I also want to include pictures… and …these z-artefacts, do you know where they come from? Is that the ripples because of the belts (mine aren't twisted) you were talking about, or should I look elsewhere? Im no pro but that looks good to me. I would accept those marks. LOL. At least its all even and smooth.by DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 Btw if you have the electronics under the bed, then you must have cork or similar insulation between them anyway, to prevent the bed heater cooking the electronics. After my RAMPS fire incident. I no longer put my electronics below. I have it on top now. Rarely do I see people do this. I have included pictures. I like it on top because its easy to fix the wiring and see what is going oby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 QuoteDRTak I have used the roofing tape on the bottom. I also put a layer of kapton tape on the bottom. An additional layer of black electrical tape. This helped. But Im almost thinking I need to use ?cork as well. Im afraid of cardboard. I already had my fire issue with the ramps electronics (thus my upgarde to duet). I dont want to add paper to the bottom of a heatbed. With the Duet,by DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian DrTak, To help with the heatbed, I did the following: 30A Automotive relay plus inline 15A fuse, due to rubbish fuse on the Ramps. You might not need to do this. Turn up the voltage on the power supply to 14V Use good quality 16ga silicone insulated wire Insulate the bottom of the bed with cardboard and aluminium roofing tape As mentioned before, this setup goes from room temperatby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian Quotedc42 QuoteDRTak Right now however, I decided to move up to using up my last spool of ABS. The duet is having issues heating up the hotbed beyond 97deg. I might have to test the hotbed and maybe try for 95 deg or lower and see if ABS sticks. Don't blame the Duet for not getting above 97C, the problem is almost certainly an under-powered bed heater. This is very common with PCB bby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteNoitome tI thought I solved the problem of not being to upload sketches with the ramps 1.4 attached, but it appeared it only worked when only the stepper drivers were attached. I ordered a new one but impatient as I was I configured the printer with taking the ramps off multiple times. Now at the test phase the next issue developed. The extruder works in reversed directions. When I click revby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 QuoteDRTak Right now however, I decided to move up to using up my last spool of ABS. The duet is having issues heating up the hotbed beyond 97deg. I might have to test the hotbed and maybe try for 95 deg or lower and see if ABS sticks. Don't blame the Duet for not getting above 97C, the problem is almost certainly an under-powered bed heater. This is very common with PCB bed heaters. Tby DRTak - Delta Machines
Well you guys were right. My issues with bridging were related to NO object fan. I decided to place one on. I used this one: But it wasnt enough. The back side of the object was rough. The front side where this fan was at was very smooth. So I put 2 fans on my system. One in the front and one in the back. Now my bridging issues went away. Its not 100% perfect but close enough for me. This is wiby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quote32bitbrad hello everyone, So for some reason my first ramps board decided to fry, for no reason what so ever. So i ordered a replacement Arduino and ramps board, once wired correctly i powered it on and the LCD didn't turn on, then after about 5 seconds, i was greeted with MAGIC SMOKE from the mega, it looks like the voltage regulator on the mega had fried as it had a burn mark. So after muby DRTak - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteGrAndAG QuoteLevon Hi guys, Does anybody use Simplify3D? After watching this I thought worth trying it out, but unfortunately they do not provide trial version, one should trust them and just buy. Actually, they have Try'n'Buy version. But you have to pay $149 first. They just promise to do full refund in 2 weeks if you do not like the program. Ouch thats a steep price.by DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteLevon Hi guys, Does anybody use Simplify3D? After watching this I thought worth trying it out, but unfortunately they do not provide trial version, one should trust them and just buy. It's interesting your opinion... Thanks for that link. I am glad I watched it. I was wondering why with slic3r I was having issues with the bottom layer when I do rafts. According to that review its slic3r iby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotewayno complaino Quotemhackney Routinely seeing > 200 kb/s I saw significant speed increases on the first day of use, the web app opened and connected within seconds and uploading files didnt feel like a wait. Now though im getting AJAX errors, dropouts, taking forever to load the web app and when it does work im seeing 11kb/s uploads. Pretty much as i was getting before when using k andby DRTak - Firmware - mainstream and related support