Quotedc42 To get the second heater to register in the web interface, you need to add a M563 command in config.g to create the second tool. You may well find that your config.g file already has a second M563 command in it, but commented out. The command should be: M563 P1 H2 D1 Regarding the IR sensor, does the red LED flash four times on power up, and then light up when it is near a target? Ifby DRTak - Controllers
Quotedc42 Ordinary endstop microswitches are adequate if they are used correctly and they are of good quality. I suggest you do some tests to see what the repeatability is. Here is one such test: 1. Create a copy of your bed.g file, with S-1 on the last G30 command instead of S6 (assuming S6 is what you are using). Make sure it includes a G28 command near the beginning to home the printer beforeby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 QuoteDRTak I cannot find how to hook up my IR sensor to the DueX4. I found the table on the wiring for the PanelDue so that is not an issue. I am using the 0.6 + DueX4 configuration. I only want the duex4 to read a 2nd thermistor (backup thermistor) for the hotend. And since the 50pin cable takes up the PIN on the expansion slot, I cannot use it for the blue cable OUT for the IR sensby DRTak - Controllers
QuoteSir_Death QuoteDRTak I have been messing around with the H parameters all day long. I finally have it close enough. Not zero zero zero zero like I would like. Nozzle is 0.35 above the bed after auto calibration (ie not zero) X tower is -0.10 Y tower is -0.05 Z tower is -0.40 Now after I do multiple auto calibrations. Those numbers just rotate around. So The nozzle may be 0.05. The Y toweby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 QuoteDRTak Hacker thanks for getting back to me. I got the center to be zero finally. I auto calibrated 4 times. Now it is zero. But the outer towers are still off. But at least they are off by the same amount roughly. I got the numbers to be roughly the same by shutting the lights off in the room? I installed LED light bulbs and maybe thats the issue. So i just shut off the light in tby DRTak - Delta Machines
Hacker thanks for getting back to me. I got the center to be zero finally. I auto calibrated 4 times. Now it is zero. But the outer towers are still off. But at least they are off by the same amount roughly. I got the numbers to be roughly the same by shutting the lights off in the room? I installed LED light bulbs and maybe thats the issue. So i just shut off the light in the room. Calibrated aby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteDRTak Way back I 3d printed the circular Mercedes sign calibration part. Then laser printed the matching *.pdf. It said impossibly that x tower was 120 deg y tower was 121deg and 120 deg on z tower. For a total of 361 deg. So if my build is not true 120 deg from each other will this be causing these errors. How can I double check ? Or fix it? I don't think it could possibly sayby DRTak - Delta Machines
IR SENSOR I have placed the IR sensor within 2mm of the heater block. ie I cannot get it any closer or the IR electronics would touch the heater block. So I have tested and tested and tested and its still a mess. 1st auto calibration. My z probe was off by X Y Z Center : -0.5, -.2, -.85, and -1.15 2nd auto calibration my z probe was off by x -.3, y 0, z -.85, and center of -1.15 I decided tby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 By default, the firmware will let you go down to -0.5mm on a delta. If after auto calibration the heights are inconsistent, that probably means that you have an inconsistent trigger height for the IR sensor. This can be caused by the bed surface not being sufficiently uniform, but on a delta printer a common cause is that the effector is tilting slightly as it translates in the XY planby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quoteohfurryone I was trying to use Marlin master instead of 1.04, however using 1.04 doesn't seem to help. It probes each place randomly 3-10 times along the X axis only moving on the Y axis once, then hits the bed after 30-40 probes. The steppers seem to be wired correctly as the printer homes fine. Trying to dry-print a test cube (with 1.04) results in the X tower plowing it's carriage into tby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 I was indeed referring to the AD12 pin on the Expansion1 connector. Thanks David I see it now. Had to use reading glasses to see the AD12 pin. Sorry about that.by DRTak - Controllers
I guess what I am saying is the 50 pin cable that connects the Duet to the dUEX4 covers AD12 and AD14 Duex4 pins? So right now, I have your IR sensor (3pin connector) connected to the IR sensor. Two of the 3 output wires are connected to E Endstop (red and black wires on the picture below) on the duet0.6. The blue wire on the picture below I guess connects to the DUex4 AD12 pin but that pin is coby DRTak - Controllers
I cannot find how to hook up my IR sensor to the DueX4. I found the table on the wiring for the PanelDue so that is not an issue. I am using the 0.6 + DueX4 configuration. I only want the duex4 to read a 2nd thermistor (backup thermistor) for the hotend. And since the 50pin cable takes up the PIN on the expansion slot, I cannot use it for the blue cable OUT for the IR sensor. So Where do I putby DRTak - Controllers
Quoteohfurryone Hello everyone, I'm new to the forums here. I recently brought a Sintron Kossel kit last week to see if it would be any good for what I need and I have spent since then trying to calibrate the printer. I've so far read 8 tutorials and I believe I have set everything correctly, all the measurements are correct. However when auto-calibrating from pronterface it begins by probing tby DRTak - Delta Machines
Realtor, I think the sintron is the best bet. Their support is amazing. If you build your own expect to spend more. If you fry a component you might be lost as what to do. And buy a replacement part. Unless you already built a kit and know what you are doing. You might be way over your head making one from scratch. If u get stuck no one can help u.by DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteSir_Death QuoteDRTak Hello everyone. Update to my IR sensor project. I'm a fan of dc42. Bought his PanelDue and ir board. Printed his ir fan connector to the effector. Printed his PanelDue enclosure. So IR looks great. Works great BUT... I do the delta auto calibration 3 times. My after error correction is around 0.400. After 3 calibrations the center and the z tower is perfect. I do theby DRTak - Delta Machines
Can I change the z height to be -1 in m208 Ie. M208 S1 Z-1 For my first correction. I did fix the trigger height. I temporarily painted the aluminum bed black with a sharpie. Then found that this fixed a height error of 2mm after I did a calibration. So pure sintron al bed is bad. But this only fixed the center z height not the outer height errors. The sensor is very close to the noby DRTak - Delta Machines
I was reading on how to add corrections. But it requires you to print out the calibration right angle calibrater. My machine is out of commission I had the same issue at the x and y tower with my ramps set up. But I just avoided printing near those tower . I thought it would be fixed with the ir sensor and duet. I would recommend the IR once this issue is fixed. Until then the calibration is sby DRTak - Delta Machines
Hello everyone. Update to my IR sensor project. I'm a fan of dc42. Bought his PanelDue and ir board. Printed his ir fan connector to the effector. Printed his PanelDue enclosure. So IR looks great. Works great BUT... I do the delta auto calibration 3 times. My after error correction is around 0.400. After 3 calibrations the center and the z tower is perfect. I do the paper test. To prove it.by DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteTha_Reaper Quotehacker QuoteTha_ReaperI Finally got my LCD to work, but it seems that the reset button on the LCD doesnt work. IIRC, LCD doesn't have a reset button, but rather a kill switch, so it should kill everything, but isn't supposed to be followed by reboot (I hope there's a reason for it, because I found that pretty frustrating personally).yeah... kill switch. it said rby DRTak - Delta Machines
I use the same exact settings as ABS. Temp of 218. Bed temp of 100deg. It sticks really well to the heatplate. Sticks better than ABS. The rest of the settings are the same as ABS as well. Retraction etc.by DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotesquall Agreed that this kit might not be everyone, but I have to say I haven't had to spend any extra on getting it working. The only real mod I had to do was grind the metal rod ballends so they don't bind. I've been having a lot of fun experimenting with printing and think it's great if you like building stuff yourself. Just some examples of the stuff I've played around printing so far:by DRTak - Delta Machines
I agree. If you see it as a toy then its a giant tinker toy. Build it and learn how it works.by DRTak - Delta Machines
Quoterealthor Quotedc42 My recommendation is this , but it costs even more. Or you could build your own using the Kossel variant described in my blog (see link in my signature) as a basis. Personally I am looking into a sub-400 kit just to wet my feet and I am planning to use that to build another one so I would really like to even canibalize the kit's parts to use on the one I am going to primby DRTak - Delta Machines
Blurd, Type M119 after you hit HOME. Z probe NOT deployed. It should all be TRIGGERED Also, no one has done this but I have 3 wires from each endstop going into ramps. Yel Red Black. In that order from top to bottom. The z probe is only 2 wires and I forgot which way they go. I assume Red Black. Top to bottomby DRTak - Delta Machines
I have been doing some research and decided against buying a resin printer. I was looking at Form1+, China knock off for 1/2 price, iBox for $299, or the cheapest of them all Peachy Printer ($100). Read some articles and the build plate is small for the peachy and Ibox. The resin I hear is messy and you need a lot of desktop space to work with a resin printer. All in all I will stick with my kby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quoteblurd Hey all, I have been following this thread for weeks. I built my Sintron, its original stock, except for the Traxxas ends, and the fan mount is wood since the original broke when I tried to fit it around the hotend. I have two problems that may be related and wanted to know if anyone had them. First, the LCD displays only squares, but the audible click works. The wiring seems foolby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotexile6 QuoteDRTak im using arduino firmware. I bought premade carbon fiber traxas and they guaranteed it was 215mm. Thats what I bought premade on ebay. But i have no idea how to check what my kossel thinks. Repetier is what Im using to print and i get curved edges. Im going to check all belts, tighten screws etc. Edit. I might have found the issue. The Y carriage was really loose. I thinkby DRTak - Delta Machines
im using arduino firmware. I bought premade carbon fiber traxas and they guaranteed it was 215mm. Thats what I bought premade on ebay. But i have no idea how to check what my kossel thinks. Repetier is what Im using to print and i get curved edges. Im going to check all belts, tighten screws etc. Edit. I might have found the issue. The Y carriage was really loose. I think it might be delaminatby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 Looks like either a build error or a calibration error to me. Does the diagonal rod length in your M665 command match the measured value? I typed M665 in repetier and nothing happened. I typed M114 and that works. I dont know why M665 wont show upby DRTak - Delta Machines