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Support for the quite nice RAMPS Electronics. See also http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS.
Re: Can anyone give advice on Linear rail preloading? - 6 years ago
your best bet is to contact the supplier by email with what you are using it for and they will set that or advise you. With linear bearings it is best not to remove the block from the railsby Roger123D - Reprappers
Re: Fan jump right up then machine stop - 6 years ago
There is an extruder fan that should always be running at 100 % at all times and when it fails hot ends plug up and extruder motors click and even shut down. Then there is a second fan that blows onto the part to cool it during printing and its % is adjustable for different layers and bridges etc. When this fan fails sometimes nothing happens or the part may look melted depends on settings and teby Roger123D - General
Re: P802 lcd - 6 years ago
check all over this site and also look under partsby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Z axis stuck when print starts - 6 years ago
You need to adjust the stepper driver output current depending on the board you have there should be small pots to adjust and they could be off by a fraction of a turn and in this case on the border line of not moving. Locate the pot for Z and turn slightly while running too much either way the more will stop, make noise or overheat. There are exact ways using a meter posted all over web.by Roger123D - Printing
Re: PETG printing surface - 6 years ago
try increasing the Z offset by +0.1 mm and also the retraction length. You can also increase print speed on first layer. I get the same thing with PETG which causes the nozzle to make noise as it scraps across the bumps and it only occurs on first layer the next layers print fine. I think your temp is ok. You can also reduce extrusion multiplier to 0.9 or 0.8 that helped me.by Roger123D - Printing
Re: TMC2130 Stallguard - 6 years ago
have you looked here and arduino library another site what the first link is the marlin setup the second is an arduino library file and info and the third site is detailed discussion of the driver. This driver is a very complex unit with many variables to setup and at some point recommend a scope to setup. It appears you only have y axis enabled. I have not used this driver but am inteby Roger123D - General
Re: Configuring Marlin - 6 years ago
Was the original firmware Marlin? What is working ok? What is not? Do the steppers work and the limits? Did the printer have auto level or is it something your now adding. A list of what doesn't work and config file will help.by Roger123D - General
Re: Keep frying my board - 6 years ago
If you have an lcd display and always connecting to USB and computer try removing the diode on the ramps board under the x y stepper driver sockets not the one near power input and this puts less stress on Arduino board. The fan shouldn't be using that much current but try a new one. As far as mosfet you could remove it from board and add 3 wires to mount it on a large heat sink and get a higherby Roger123D - Reprappers
Re: High pitched whining noise, no stepper movement - 6 years ago
The best way to adjust stepper current is with multimeter set on dc volts the negative probe connect to ground and the positive clipped to a small jeweller type screwdriver that when touched to adjustment pot gives a reading of 0.7 volts. Initially done without stepper then done with stepper then done while stepper is moving. This voltage may vary slightly if you are too high or too low you willby Roger123D - Printing
Re: MKS Base v1.4 driver bypass - 6 years ago
what is it you are hoping to accomplish ? 1/256 micro stepping if your printing gold wire with a 0.01 nozzle ? Do you need a new board?by Roger123D - General
Re: Live Print Communication Protocol - 6 years ago
The program already sends one line of code followed by another and is viewed in the log that should have auto scroll on to see a continuous stream. The slicer program takes an stl file made up of triangles and generates a Gcode that runs when you print. Feedback of what? Live Feed?by Roger123D - General
Re: Print not completing filling in one direction - 6 years ago
because it happens in the same spot on all squares it appears to be an error in the design you need to print a regular cube and see. You should calibrate the extruder it could be under extrusionby Roger123D - Printing
Re: Questions about print seams... - 6 years ago
w.hen a print starts it begins at a point does a layer and comes to same spot does next layer and repeats and when it is done you will see a line up the part that can be ugly. 3 settings aligned it does the start same place then nearest offsets each consecutive start point shifted from the original and random the start point is all over the place and seam is not seenby Roger123D - Printing
Re: Dual Z motors out of sync - 6 years ago
The Ramps board has two plugs/sets of pins for two stepper motors but they are both driven from one driver board. If you simply connect a stepper motor to each one they are in a parallel mode and thus both steppers need to be the same and ideally should have identical specs. The solution is to series connect the two stepper motors into a one plug as an example color red blue green black colorby Roger123D - General
Re: PETG eats the glassbed, what to do? - 6 years ago
I use PETG no heated bed turned on with plain 1/4 glass with a coating of water soluble stick glue and had no problem . Key to removal don't let the part cool on there over night just a few minutes and catch under the edge with a razor blade and tap blade with a wooden or printed block. No need to clean glass every time until glue builds up too much. Worst case take the glass plate off and soak iby Roger123D - Printing
Re: Add Prusa i3 P802 to Fusion 360 - 6 years ago
what do you mean by add it? Fusion is a cad program not a printer program. Printer programs are like Repetier Host the program you run to access your printer. You design a part in fusion and convert export to stl file that you load into printer then slice and printby Roger123D - Printing
Re: Original Prusa i3 Mk2s or Mk3 or...... - 6 years ago
Well these are pre order so if you order now you will get it sooner if price is not the problem and you waited this long I would get the MK3. I assume you have watched the videos on it.by Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: X end stepper skipping steps - 6 years ago
what stepper driver boards are you using in ramps you should adjust with multimeter did you try another driver board if you have 4988 and change to 8825 then remove the jumper that makes it 1/32 you will still have 1/32 ability if you look at DRV 8825 data sheet you will see with all jumpers in place it becomes 1/64 and even 128. You will only need 2 jumpers on 8825 to get 1/32 micro stepping theby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Polycarbonate nozzle buildup - 6 years ago
if you go to filaments.ca they have a spot on their site with tips on printing with different filaments...try increasing print speed filament temp adjust and cooling speed and retractionby Roger123D - Reprappers
Re: LCD menu item - 6 years ago
what settings and what firmware you may have changed something in the LCD settings and what LCD is it. More details would helpby Roger123D - General
Re: Where to buy HDPE filament? - 6 years ago
There is suppose to be a supplier in Montreal area not sure if they have that type. also 3dprintingcanada.com in hamilton and filaments3dquebec.caby Roger123D - General
Re: extruder steps/mm around 0.8 for direct drive when 145 is expected - 6 years ago
Not sure how you calibrated the extruder or changed steps/mm. The Melzi board may be 1/16 microstepping you need to review those specs. So more info would help.by Roger123D - Printing
Ramps and Hot End on D8 - 6 years ago
Using Ramps 1.4 with repetier firmware and for some reason the hot end heater using D10 is somehow not working on that pin but works on D8 . It works ok there but schematics all show it on D10. Should I change this or leave as there is no heatbed currently used but plan for one. ? what specific setting is wrong and can I change in EEPROM or must it be done in config.by Roger123D - Repetier
Re: Controller Freezes - 6 years ago
There is a web site for Raspberri Pi as its OS is on SD cards which can come corrupted etc. and things don't work. Anyhow on that site is a listing of different SD cards who made them and problems with them. If you read up on the different bad and good cards you may find a reason as perhaps it may be the actual SD card you are usingby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Can the LCD be adjusted - 6 years ago
The LCD has what we call a back light that is actually LEDs and their brightness can be adjusted by a pot and on the graphic LCD displays its of the top of the board near rotary knob or pushbuttons. On 16x2 bare LCDs there are two pins for backlight power connections to power and control brightness. TURN THE POTby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Need help with getting Ecksbot printer going - 6 years ago
the z axis does not need to run at high speed one layer height every layer say .2mm try adjusting the current pot on z axis driver board if it runs good at 5mm/s that will be okby Roger123D - General
Re: Uneven layers on reprap. - 7 years ago
have you set proper nozzle size 0.4 0.3 and filament diameter 1.75 or 3 then your layer height 0.2 for start and extrusion width usually % or let slicer decide and list goes on calibrate extruder so you get 10 mm filament not 9 or 11 when you tell it 10 and the extrusion multiplier default is 1 make it .85 and try this first and level the bed . New printers need a " burn in time " and practiceby Roger123D - Printing
Re: HELP!! X, Y, Z homing problems, stepper problems, RAMPS problems... - 7 years ago
if you uploaded your own configuration check end stop settings as well if y axis stepper is moving then pressing its end stop should make it stop eg NO may need to be NC ....max should be min and set up your bed size doing a home all should send each axis towards it limit switch that then turns off the stepper else the pulley grinds in the beltby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Strange thing happened last night with my i3 - 7 years ago
if you print from sd remove the usb cable unless you need it for power which indicates problems elsewhere power supply not the issue I think you caused a firmware reboot that stopped print SD card doesn't need the computer if you print from computer disconnect from internet during print get a computer UPS battery backup for power outages especially if using a laptop with old batteryby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: HICTOP i3 - Err: MinTemp - 7 years ago
is it the exact thermistor replacement or something else it may need to be changed in config but first try doing a PID autotune on the hotend shown how in marlin or repetier documentation using M303 commandby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants