Edit: Ok, I tried uploading the new firmware via a cheapo USBASP dongle with success. Strange thing: At first I select "burn bootloader" and avrdude says "done, ok" but upload via FTDI won't function (57600 or 115200 baudrate). So I select "upload via programmer" and vola! it works!by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Melzi board files for actual IDE's (1.6xx above) ---> or even easier: just go in arduino settings and add this into "additional board manager URL" and then install the sanguino via the board manager I didn't have success uploading the firmware via the FTDI, but I'm sure my melzi board has no bootloader installed, so I have to burn the bootloader via a Arduino Uno (or USPisp) first. But I woby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Zonestar/Hesine (what ever name they use now/past/future, they are all the SAME) is a really annoying company. The totally hesitated to give away the source code of their firmware in the past and this is strictly against open source policy. So copy the ideas from others (what is ok, if open source like our printer) and then they keep secret their minor changes (and errors). But one reason why tby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
@ErikL: I build this things within 10 minutes and it matched at the first time (ok, luck), but the important thing is: This idea works! I printed out a tyre for about 3 hours, without any problems.by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Es gibt gute Neuigkeiten bezüglich flexibles Filament: Ich hatte mit unserem Extruder immer das Problem, dass sich das Filament in der Zuführung Schleifen bildet. Das gehört nun der Vergangenheit an! Verweise auf den englischen Thread wo ich alles genau beschrieben habe:by madias - Allgemeines
Good news for printing flexible filaments The simplest idea was really the best, just an additional guide for the filament prevents loops around the filament gear Tested with 30m/s working good! More speed give bad results with "soft PLA" even with 230 degrees. But 30ms/s more than the recommended speed. I have attached a 123D design file and also a STL file for that part. For myself I usedby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
The flickering is caused by a bad 5v converter onboard as I can remember. People fixed it with exchange the voltage converter or powering the melzi via additional usb 5v. I have the lcd flicker problem (all of us have it). But I fixed it another way: In the past: setting voltage output on PSU to 13.5 now: Using new 25A PSU (also set to about 13V for better heatbed heating)by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Apropos: Habt ihr euch eigentlich schon eine alternative Lüfterhalterung angesehen? Der "Ausgedruckte" ist ja wohl mehr als suboptimal: ---> interessantes Video, den werde ich mal probieren, die anderen sind mir zu "massig" und sind nicht mit meiner LED Düsenbeleuchtung kompatibelby madias - Allgemeines
Ok, I'm at home so here are my collected links about autolevelling: (Sorry maybe some are german!) difference between blue and orange sensor: melzi + autolevel ---> new firmware source sensor holder (orange): sensor with optocoupler repetier and z-sensor prusa i3 + sensorby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Herzlichen Dank! Ich mag Shops, wo man mit einem Mausklick die Versandkosten sieht und die dazu noch moderat sind (3.99 Euro europaweit ist selten für DE/AT Shops). Hast du auch gleich diese eingebaut? lg Matthiasby madias - Allgemeines
Setting up autolevelling for repetier should be easy with the repetier configurator. Read the threads at the repetier forum about autolevelling.by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
home position must be set inside the orgin of the metal plate (front left) otherwise the sensor won't work. I think there is a possibility to keep the mechanical endstop, but you need a further pin (available on melzi?)by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
No I don't think so. But here some instructions: BTW: Here is a new link with a better manual for the printer (yeah, this is what we need yet!) and the source of the repetier firmware (more useful)by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Should work, but 4mm detecting distance is really less. For example: If you are using Blue Tape (1-2mm) you have only 2-3mm left to your metal plate (it works only with metal plates!) I also bought this one: (8mm distance) and even your suggested one: The 8mm one is really bigger than the 4mm one... But I didn't installed both of them yet.by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
danke für den Link! Bezüglich verstopfter Noozle: Habe mir via aliexpress noozles in mehreren Größen (0.2, 0.3, 0.4. und 0.5) bestellt die 0.3er und 0.4er gleich 3-5 STK. Sind spottbillig und ich kann wechseln, wenn ich per se keine Zeit/Geduld zum reinigen habe. Verwende sogar eine eigene NUR für Holzfilamente. Zwecks Reinigung würde sich so ein Minibohrerset empfehlen (eben in diesen Größen) alby madias - Allgemeines
my problem occurs after the gear in the metal hole of the heat element. Often (when the filament is not perfectly straight) i cannot fit the filament into this hole inside the extruder. But I set the screw of the heat element a little bit deeper so the hole is deeper, maybe this helps BUT the gap between gear and heater skrew is much higher, so even worse for flexible fil. printer: ok, we havby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Another possibility could be to measure out the original metal filament feeder/guide remix it with a better guide line and print it out with PETG. The whole thing is not on my priority list, I just think (and plan) it. I'm generally not happy with our extruder solution: It's a pain to insert new filament and more pain if something went wrong - everytime to disassamble the whole thing is not the fby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
something like this would be also interesting: but won't have enough space on the bottom to do this without redesign the extruder. edit: ok, with this with can do it! just exchange the metal filament guide with this and the upper link. Maybe some adaptions for the skrewholes must be made!by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
just google for "wade extruder" they are all printed out.by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes, this should work with that ...and something like that:by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
For sure you can print a whole extruder (holder/mechanics). If you have the time for that The original design was also printed out. But I'm not sure if I would rather prefer PETG over PLA for doing that. There are many links for thingiverse extruders in the blog I posted!by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Hot end: Sorry, without photos or links we can't do anything. flexible filaments: Yes, I know this problem for a week. I didn't found the final solution, but here some things I found out (or researched for it): Extrem low print speed: 30 down to 15. This helps best, but is annoying. Softer spring for the extruder filament gear. Annoying, because you have to change it everytime There are some reaby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Danke für euer Feedback! Hab vergessen: Print speed ist bei den Teilen zwischen 60 und >100 gewesen (ich passe die Druckgeschwindigkeit oft "on the fly" im repetier host an, je nach Lage und Komplexität) also gar nicht sooo langsam. Bei sehr hoher Druckgeschwindigkeit habe ich oft den Eindruck, dass mehr die Filamente streiken (bzw. der schnelle Schmelzvorgang) als die Druckermechanik, ist abby madias - Allgemeines
Erik: I think you mean P802M. As there are *many* different types sold as "P802M" we cannot guess what hot end is included - you should post the link where did you bought it.by madias - Prusa i3 and variants
1. Serial Monitor works with 115200? can you read what the printer transmit? 2 as I wrote before my melzi board was without bootloader. scroll back reading it. 3. auto reset jumper on board is installed? BTW: It would be much easier to help you if you would answer *all* our questionsby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Ich versuche hier einfach wieder ein bisschen Höfliichkeit in den Thread reinzubekommen Also Steffen: Bei mir gibt es überhaupt kein Spiel und die Teile sind wirklich passgenau. Einzig die beiden ausgedruckten Z-Halter Teile musste ich ein wenig nachbearbeiten, v.a. die Bohrung. Das war überhaupt größte Hürde: Mit gespannten Y-Gurt, dass die Z-Achsen kein "O" und kein "X" bilden. Immer wieder naby madias - Allgemeines
So, da ich jetzt seit 3 Monaten das schwarze Acrylmodell besitze, möchte ich hier auch meine Erfahrungen posten: Zuerst: Steffen hatte wohl wirklich Pech mit seinem Bausatz (bzw. glaube ich, dass es unterschiedliche Hersteller gibt, generell dürfte das "schwarze" Modell ausgereifter sein). Mein Bausatz war vollständig, keine verzogenen Teile oder Stangen und keine defekten Parts. Link: Im Allgeby madias - Allgemeines
Some information about different filaments with this printer: At first: I use blue tape *only* and a well calibrated bed (do calibration under heated up conditions! (both: extruder and bed) If you are using a lower temperature (extruder+bed) for the next print you MUST do it again. (expansion due heat about 1-2mm!) If the object is very small I use a little bit of self mixed ABS juice (aceton + sby madias - Prusa i3 and variants
Scott: Does the printer works offline? If everything went wrong you can remove the board out of the printer and try a direct connection via a short USB cable without ANY peripheries connected. You should see it in your device manager. If not (or no LED flickering) the board (or some parts of it) is dead. EDIT: Another reason could be a bricked FTDI. Google for it. As I can remember the win driverby madias - Prusa i3 and variants