Aaand... Solved. I'm running a "dry installation" on electronics that are not connected to anything. Just to toy with it. I was having "ERR: MINTEMP" because i had no thermistor connected. Add a thermistor -> Rock and roll again...by Veesta - Firmware - Marlin
Hi there, Just enabled #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER And it brings stuff to display, but the rotary knob is dead and no beeps. I cannot get to the LCD menu. LCD menu/knob/beep works if i revert back to older version of Marlin, so the display/board is working.by Veesta - Firmware - Marlin
Problem solved. Had to comment out WITBOX #define WITBOX to //#define WITBOXby Veesta - Firmware - Marlin
Hi there, I'm currently building Prusa i3 rework and trying to get Marlin to compile. I'm following these instructions and have downloaded this already modified file As is, this file compiles without problems. I'm trying to install a RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller as per I have U8glib installed. If i enable this in configuration.h #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_Cby Veesta - Firmware - Marlin
Hi there, Just wiring my Z axis motors and thinking if it matters if the cables are different length? AFAIK, this does not matter in this case, but appreciate your input. I have twisted both pairs at the opposite directions just to be safe. (Motor one has shorter cables than the second motor)by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Try few millimeters of retraction. (Pic 5 says 0 retraction)by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
You could use a digital caliper to measure from bottom of the smooth rod to printer frame, or desktop. Just make sure everything is nice and flat and sitting straight. All bolts and nuts tightened and thread locked. You could also cut flat headed piece of rod and use it as jig to get both sides at the same height. I'd use the jig and mark the correct position on the couplings/motor for easier, vby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Unohtui mainita, että 8mm tangot löytyivät Kodin Terrasta. Mattapintaista alumiinia.by Veesta - Finnish RepRap User Group
Taitaa filamentin syöttö olla se tavallinen, että pyörittää hammasratasta ja "kolottua pulttia" "wade" Kuumapääksi taitaa sopia joko E3D tai J-Head. Itsekin rakentelen tulostinta täällä Tampereella, mutta tuskin ennen kesää vielä sylkee muovia. Puuttuu vielä moottorit, virtalähde ja arduino. Muuten alkaa olemaan Prusa jo kasassa. Tässä justiinsa laittelen muttereita kiinni kierrelukitteella, kunby Veesta - Finnish RepRap User Group
Hi there, Just got my "Mk2b" heatbed and it has some tape residual and something that looks like ink "ghosting" from screen printing. What would i use to clean it without damaging the surface coating? Alcohol? Acetone? Turpentine? Also, I saw a teeny tiny bit of coating chipping off from the heating "wire" and i have to ask if these things suffer from "hot spots" ?? Will that teeny tiny bit ofby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Just soldered some circuits and thought if Prusa can print solder?by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Ei ole P3Steelistä kyse, mutta itse rakentelen iltapuhteina Prusa i3 Reworkia. Vanerilevystä veistetty frame ja muoviset osat tulee/tuli Liettuasta ja pyörötangot Motonetista. K-Raudasta löytyi paksummat pultit ja ruuvi.netistä pienimmät. Omasta romulootasta löytyykin sitten jos jonkinlaista elektroniikkaa ja nippeliä.by Veesta - Finnish RepRap User Group
Just thinking here, Thermistor in the heated bed is connected directly to the heating element. This element is able to get to the target temperature sooner than the glass element on top of it. Actually, the glass is cooling the bed. It takes more time to heat to the target temperature. What if you moved the thermistor from the heating element to the glass element instead? Thermistor would theby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for the replies, Ok, i will start from 100 micron and work my way from there. Just another thought. Do these things need a pre-heating before they start printing? (Of course, thermistors need to say they are at the right temperature) In my experience from the digital press, their fusers might need to "warm up properly" before the first print even adheres to the sheet. This means the firby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi there, I'm building prusa i3 Rework from scratch. Sourcing parts locally and from the internets. I'm looking at the calibration instructions and it says to fold paper in half and run it between the nozzle and plate - and adjust as needed. I'd like to ask what paper to use, but i know from working in the printing industry for almost 20 years that this is a silly way to measure things. Paper wby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants