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Support for the quite nice RAMPS Electronics. See also http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS.
firmware upgrade latest version - 8 years ago
I just put 1.20 on my Duet Wifi but after pushing the two file in I notice that the web interface version stays at 1.19 is this normal? Software Information Firmware Name: RepRapFirmware for Duet WiFi Firmware Electronics: Duet WiFi 1.0 Firmware Version: 1.20 (2017-12-23) WiFi Server Version: 1.20 Web Interface Version: 1.19 Also is there a way to reboot the controller via the web interface? Iby JustSumGuy - Duet
Re: Cleaning nozzles - 8 years ago
look up the 'atomic' pull method. Basically you heat up the tip to near printing temp then pull the filament out quick, it clears alot from the tip all the way up. then removing the tip cold is pretty easy as most of the plastic is out of there...by JustSumGuy - Printing
Re: PETG - 8 years ago
I found PETG a fair bit more touchy. My hotbed is PEI and I could not get any stick at first, then I upped the temps a fair bit for my first layer. Then I had trouble getting it off!! So here is what I found worked for me after I got it all working ok: Hot End temp first layer 235c Hot End temp 220c bed temp first 5 layers 80c bed temp after 65c First layer print speed 15mms print speed 35by JustSumGuy - Printing
Re: No power to Z-axis in Marlin with TCM 2130 Drivers. - 8 years ago
have you double checked all the jumpers from the stepsticks to the AUX2 and AUX3 connectors on the RAMPS? Since your X/Y work and your Z does not I wonder if the lines from the Z stepstick are the problem... P.S. The settings for TMC2130 SPI are in Configuration_adv.hby JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Not printing on top of each other - 8 years ago
Interesting issue, for printers that use standard controllers we can adjust the vref and solve these issues easy enough, but this zonestar z8xm2.... I went to the zonestar3d.com website to see if there was some info, they don't even list that model of printer let alone any documentation on the controller... I found a pic of the controller and I can see the pots beside the driver chips, but I doby JustSumGuy - Printing
Re: 1.1.8 Homing correctly but not when running print - 8 years ago
QuoteOben221 JustSumGuy Thank you for your help turns out it was in fact the wires to the motors needed to be reversed thank you for the idea Glad to helpby JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Problem with complex prints... - 8 years ago
Quoteampapa I feel like I'm getting real close but still missing something obvious. This print last night gave me problems either at the layers below/above the letters or vice versa, possibly dues to speed or jerk or??? ampapa, Check your belt tension. Thats likely backlash as its showing up after a direction change. Core X/Y have long belts so tension is a big issue with them. You may finby JustSumGuy - Printing
Re: OctoPrint - 8 years ago
This article indicates it can be done, but at the cost of a RpiZero I would not bother: So back to, your original problem and again sorry to mislead.by JustSumGuy - Printing
Re: OctoPrint - 8 years ago
I run AstroPi not OctoPi but plug in up to 4 printers and it handles them all on one Pi3 I stand corrected, I had believed this but I just went hunting and found I am wrong, so sorry to mislead you -by JustSumGuy - Printing
Re: OctoPrint - 8 years ago
Would it have been better to get a Pi3 and run both printers from one print server?by JustSumGuy - Printing
Re: Layer shifting after switching stepper drivers - 8 years ago
I have three v2 Chinese tmc2100 running xyz and one v3 running the extruder. I found it best to pull all jumpers under the driver and make no other mods. I then set all the drivers to .8v and had some layer shifts and extruder skipping, I brought each one up a bit until things got stable. my lowest is .95v and my highest is 1.41v that's my extruder. It gets warm, 40c or so, but everything worksby JustSumGuy - RAMPS Electronics
Re: 1.1.8 Homing correctly but not when running print - 8 years ago
I really don't know your printer layout but I believe when you set the firmware to end stops max or min, your telling the firmware where the end stop is physically. Not just where its plugged in on the controller. This is something I messed around with until it worked, and that was a while back. hopefully one of the marlin minds like Roxy will stop by this thread soonby JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
Re: 1.1.8 Homing correctly but not when running print - 8 years ago
Just a thought, but maybe you have two problems working in tandem. lets say the motor direction is reversed AND the end stop is set to the opposite end.. in that case I think it would home but then run backwards... playing it out in my mind I see it anyhowby JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Is it necessary to enable PID for the heat bed? - 8 years ago
Using bang bang on the heat bed is not usually that bad, worth a try but keep in mind if you use ABS you might get some issues due to warping IF the bed takes wild swings in temp. Useing a thermal insulation under the bed helps alot with this!! PETG your less likely to have issues. PID is more for the hotend to keep it stable than for the hotbed. You may also see a longer heat up time for yoby JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Thermistor selection Marlin 1.1.8 - 8 years ago
will the following work? I plan to replace thermistortable_8.h with this and adjust a few other files to reflect the different thermistor name that table 8 will now be. /** * Marlin 3D Printer Firmware * Copyright (C) 2016 MarlinFirmware * * Based on Sprinter and grbl. * Copyright (C) 2011 Camiel Gubbels / Erik van der Zalm * * This program is free software: you can redistribute it andby JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Marlin 2.x help or other recommendations? - 8 years ago
I doubt you want to hear what I am going to say but its just my opinion I ran ramps for a while on my little cube, it burned up after a few months while running a tiny hotbed, its limited and a poor design. I then replaced it with an MKS Gen 1.4 that I am running now with Marlin 1.18 this is a much better built Ramps equivalent design but has limits as well. You just cant get alot out of theseby JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Thermistor selection Marlin 1.1.8 - 8 years ago
Can someone plz take a look at this and tell me if I did this right? I attached an Excel sheet of the info below as formatting doesn't look right on a cut paste from Excel.... The table creator I found was setup to make the table for every 5 deg but the data I had was every 10 deg so I adapted. Will this be a problem? Now how to use this...... Do I just cut paste over an existing thermistor taby JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Thermistor selection Marlin 1.1.8 - 8 years ago
I found it!!!! I don't think type 1 would have been very accurate, would have worked but been out a fair bit much like the type 5 I have been using. now to work out how to put this info into marlin.....by JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Thermistor selection Marlin 1.1.8 - 8 years ago
QuoteDust DONT use a lighter... approx 1970C , will damage thermistor. I was kidding dang it after all that work I was really hopeing to use that script But thanx I will try type 1by JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Thermistor selection Marlin 1.1.8 - 8 years ago
Ok, started from scratch on a different PC and it worked. now I am lost at how to input the data I have been able to glean from Google into this script... 104NT-4R025H42G I for Steinhart Hart 0.000797110609710217F J for Steinhart Hart 0.000213433144381270F K for Steinhart Hart 6.5338987554e-08F The script as far as I can tell is looking for this info: t1 = 25by JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Thermistor selection Marlin 1.1.8 - 8 years ago
Tried Python 3.6.4 and got a different error. This error when I research it makes me think that I should be using Python 2 but that loops me back to the first issue with Python.....by JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Thermistor selection Marlin 1.1.8 - 8 years ago
Can anyone lend a hand? I know zip about python. I have installed "IDLE" and cut/pasted the script from that link into a file but when I tell IDLE to check module via ALT-X I get a syntax error ?!? see attached snip plz Thanx P.S. useing IDLE ver 2.7.14 I will install and try ver 3.x now tho....by JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Thermistor selection Marlin 1.1.8 - 8 years ago
ok, that looks like it will take some learningby JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
Thermistor selection Marlin 1.1.8 - 8 years ago
I have a SEMITEC 104NT-4-R025H42G screw in type thermistor on my hotend. I dont see that on the thermistor table to select so I used type 5 104GT-2 with Marlin 1.18 Googleing about a bit I am pretty sure they dont have the same curve. I was wondering if there is a way to use the Steinhart Hart algorythm to input the curve as I have found all that data: 104NT-4R025H42G I for Steinhart Hartby JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
Re: "Error: Printer halted. kill() called" comes up whenever I print - 8 years ago
QuoteEd would Hi Check thermistors wiring and the temperatures displayed. A broken/ shorted wire or way off temperature values mid-print would cause Marlin to kill the print. Moving parts can cause intermittent faults in wiring that can be tricky to trace. Marlin will also kill the print if the temperatures weren't rising as expected, ie from a wiring fault to the heater or bed. There are seby JustSumGuy - Printing
Re: ABS not like being printed slowly? - 8 years ago
With no enclosure ABS is tough to print. PETG has its challenges but if you have no enclosure PETG is almost certainly your better choice.by JustSumGuy - Printing
Re: threaded rod question +software - 8 years ago
NOT the extruder output, the hotend output. NO you do not tell your system to turn up the second hot end, the programing is setup so it has NO second hot end. The programing is aware the fan is on the second hotend output and when you say 'Fan on" with M106 it will put power to that output expecting a fan connected there. If you try to turn up the second hot end with an actual hotend command liby JustSumGuy - Printing
Re: controlled heated box - 8 years ago
Quotedc42 The limiting component is the terminal block, not the mosfet. I forget its rating, but it should be good to at least 6A, which is 120W @ 24V. ok, that sounds like a way to go then tqvmby JustSumGuy - Duet
Re: controlled heated box - 8 years ago
Quotedc42 QuoteJustSumGuy So I have this idea, might be too much to be worth it tho I am building an enclosed HEVO and plan to install a heating system to maintain 50c-70c temp for ABS printing. Duet Wifi btw... The design is for a dual extruder single hotend setup. This will leave the second hotend PWM mosfet output and thermistor input unused. I will be building for 24v so I was thinkingby JustSumGuy - Duet
Re: controlled heated box - 8 years ago
Quotejbolt How about a separate PSU for the heater(s) and use the second hot end mosfet to control a DC to DC SSR. That way you can also use the thermister port for the second hot end and have full duet control. but I have no intention of having a second hot end. as far as an SSR and secondary PSU yes thats also doable, not needed if the one on board can handle 100 watt tho....by JustSumGuy - Duet