Found this in the reprap wiki, hopefully it fixes my problem: QuoteRepRap Wiki Extruder running backwards at start of print Technically this is not a problem with Skeinforge, but you can make a simple change in Skeinforge to work around it. The issue is caused by manual extrusion (through RepRapHost, RepSnapper) prior to a print changing the E value calculated by your firmware. To fix, in your stby unicoder - General
My hotend blew out when I was stuffing the filament back in, so I've got probably another couple days before printing again while I rebuild. Actually, testing this while my hotend is not there sounds like a great idea to me...by unicoder - General
Took a look and I don't have a start.gcode. My settings are almost completely default. Why on earth does it reverse at the beginning by default?by unicoder - General
Sorry, forgot to mention that I upgraded to SF 41 for these tests (and removed my ~/.skeinforge folder so I could start from scratch). Did I get the formula right for SF 41? I'll take a look at those other things when I get home.by unicoder - General
Disclaimer: my inexperience with skeinforge may invalidate these results I tried to print with Printrun but it still paused. The print started out by running the extruder in reverse for quite a while (?), then eventually it started (and I had to push the filament back in) but it was extruding way too fast (3-5 times too fast). I thought I got the e_steps_per_mm right: 3200 * (30/10) / (6.7 * 3.1by unicoder - General
Thanks brnrd. I will give that a try today or tomorrow, when I have my RepRap put back together.by unicoder - General
I will need to get some pre-cut, so I guess my options are the hardware store or craft stores. If I start with Kapton tape and decide to use glass later, can I keep the Kapton tape on my PCB heatbed, or will that block the heat or something?by unicoder - General
No, I didn't know about that. It looks like I have export enabled, but set to "Do Not Change Output". Which option do I need to select to make it use replace.csv and does it come with a replace.csv with good default content?by unicoder - General
Interesting, I sent gcodes generated by skeinforge 33 with repsnapper and I still experienced the pauses. I'll try 41 and/or pronterface and see if that helps. That's funny about generating g-code with repsnapper, because I got some really decent prints with it. Sorry I forgot to mention that I was using Linux, I knew I would forget one of the variables, there are so many. I will report back witby unicoder - General
I'm definitely interested in trying glass at some point, but since Kapton tape is what I have now, I will use that for now. I was using some double-sided tape from MakerGear, but I didn't like it too much. It was NOT fun to remove. Well it was a little bit fun because I got to use my new dremel How much do these sheets of glass cost you guys anyway?by unicoder - General
I spent a fair amount of time already searching for an answer to this question and have not found it, so I thought I'd ask here. They say kapton tape is one of the best build plate surfaces for a heated build plate because the plastic sticks well to it when it's hot. Is the sticky side supposed to be up? If so, how do you attach it to the build plate? This is not at all intuitive to me. Thanks foby unicoder - General
Found a terribly hacky "solution" to the problem. Every time I start a print, I set up xAutoClick (Linux, I know there are similar programs for other platforms) to click on "Kick" once a second. From what I gather, the pauses are due to the firmware not understanding a gcode it receives. Whether it is repsnapper's fault for generating non-standard gcodes or sprinter's fault for not understandingby unicoder - General
Hi everyone, I just finished my printer, and I have worked out a majority of the major issues, but I just have one issue remaining. The printer stops randomly every 5 minutes or so (sometimes shorter, sometimes longer. It really just seems random). I know there is a similar post already, but I feel this is probably a different issue because I can continue the print by clicking Pause then Continueby unicoder - General
I'm having printer stopping problems too, but if I just pause/unpause it continues merrily. When it stopped for you, was it permanent? It may be a completely separate issue, but I'm wondering if my problem could be because of the usb power saving issue as well. I'm using Ubuntu though, and I don't know how to disable usb power saving, anyone know?by unicoder - General
I recommend you check out the advice given on this thread for the power pulsing issue. What fixed it for me was to turn down the current by turning the tiny screw on the pololu counter-clockwise. Just a half-turn did it in my case.by unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
Wow. Stellar advice as always, guys. Thanks! I didn't check for heat, but I assume that must have been the problem. I just went and turned the potentiometer about a full turn counter-clockwise and tested it. It wasn't getting enough power, so I turned it a half-turn back and BINGO! No more problems. I'm shocked that my ghetto soldering actually worked. Thanks again guys! I've never been disappoiby unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
Ok, but that doesn't explain why it pulses when I'm not sending any commands does it? Also, what would be the fix if that were the case? I already put a heatsink on the driver.by unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
This is a pretty strange problem, but I'll try to explain as best I can. I'm sure that the root of the problem is my solder job, but I'm just curious if I can actually salvage the Pololu driver or if I need to use a new one. Everything seems good at first when I connect to the printer and test each Pololu driver. One driver has issues, however. A few (maybe 10?) seconds after a successful test,by unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
This is beginning to sound more and more doable. I recently fried one of my Pololu drivers so I'll be getting a new one, and I'm thinking of picking up a USB host shield in the same shipment. One question I have is how to power it. You say "It's only 4 wires for arduino an few other for vcc/gnd". Could I hook up the USB host shield directly to my power supply instead of getting an Arduino wall wby unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
So I went ahead and swapped in a good pololu and my Y-axis started working, so I guess that proves that the driver is bad. Bummer.by unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
I think I may have killed one of my pololu drivers. All the drivers were working fine until I had a renegade bare wire come over and land on it and sparks flew. Now the stepper won't move in either direction. It clearly "hears" my commands but it just kind of stutters/jogs like it's fighting to go both ways at the same time or something but stays put. There aren't any obvious signs of damage to tby unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
Now that I look closer, I'm not sure to add shields to RAMPS. Is it possible?by unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
Very cool! So all we need to make this work is RAMPS, a $25 USB host shield, an android phone, and the software. I'm 50% of the way there, I'm definitely going to do this. Thanks for the info zzarbi, maybe now you're wishing you didn't go with an iphone?by unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
I've looked into it a little more, and I think it's totally possible/practical. Google's board is only a slightly modified arduino. They added a host shield and some way to allow the board to provide power to the android phone. I want this. I have an old G1 I was about to sell, but this would be a much better use for it. I'm sure I can find a ROM for it with the new APIs on xda-developers.com.by unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
Yes, I'm using a 1280by unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
Google just released their Android Open Accessory Development Kit, based on Arduino, I don't think it would be a bad idea to use it for a new version of RAMPS. I haven't looked through all the details yet, maybe it could even be a drop-in replacement with no changes. It could be called GRAMPS One major advantage is that we could write Android software to allow an android device to control the prby unicoder - RAMPS Electronics
So I should connect a V+ to the + on the RAMPS board and a COM to the -?by unicoder - Controllers
Can you help me interpret the rest of these symbols? My understanding from left to right: Live, Neutral, Ground, ??, ??, ??, ??, ??, ??, ??by unicoder - Controllers
Thank you for the perfect explanation. I thought I might have actually had a computer cable laying around that I could use, but I looked and I don't. I'm looking at this one on amazon(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQMOS4/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller=) but it says 13A. Is that OK even though my supply is 20A?by unicoder - Controllers
I just got my 12V 20A Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply from ebay and I guess I'm in a little over my head now. I searched and searched for resources on the web and in the forums but apparently everyone else somehow just knows how to use these things. My main question is how on earth am I supposed to hook it up to the wall socket? I assumed it would just plug into the wall, but apparentby unicoder - Controllers