saw your post on discord i think your problem maybe that your using Arduino IDE to compile Marlin 2 Ive never tried to be honest but most use VScode with the Marlin Autobuild plugin ( that takes care of all the dependencies for you) Might be worth a try Im assuming its a Ramps board and you ware using the Z min endstop to connect the BLtouch to? Make sure the polarity of the signal wires isby bigfilsing - Firmware - Marlin
Most stock settings ive come across have 80 steps for both X & Y and this is in line with your findings Simply alter those and you should be good to go. ( if you were using .9 deg steppers then 160 would work but my guess is you have standard 1.8 deg stepper motors so 80 steps per mm will work )by bigfilsing - Firmware - Marlin
Quoteuneasy Are you then talking aboult ABL then ? Because I am talking about UBL. There is safe limit of 15 grid which is 15x15 points. 10 is default (100) points Yes I'm talking ABL . but i dont think the bed definition & layout differs If i remember correctly Chris Riley did a video a few months back on UBL That might be worth finding and watchingby bigfilsing - Firmware - Marlin
Quoteuneasy Also answering previous suggestions. Changing amount of points doesn't change anything, I've tried 49 points and it still doesn't get 49 points but 43/49. I guess the calculation of points needs to be correct otherwise it doesn't matter how many points I think. Honestly i'm not sure if there is a limit to the max number of probe points but considering they are recorded as a compensby bigfilsing - Firmware - Marlin
This can also happen when you have the stepper direction the wrong way round in firmware The firmware wont allow complete movement till all axis are homed so you can change the wiring on the stepper motor(s) to reverse the direction or alter the direction in firmware Good luckby bigfilsing - Firmware - Marlin
You are welcome The main 2 channels i follow on YT are Teaching Tech & Chris Riley Chris Riley Both have some great Marlin 2.0 VScode infoby bigfilsing - Firmware - Marlin
I found this tutorial very helpful Teaching Tech Marlin 2.0by bigfilsing - Firmware - Marlin
Once successfully compiled go to the .pio folder then the build folder then the processor folder you have compiled for. In there you should find a bin file that can be uploadedby bigfilsing - Firmware - Marlin
first issue i see is that you have defined X_MAX_POS as 299 but your X_BED_SIZE is 288 I think 100 points is excessive I would suggest starting with 9 or 16 points than working your way up to a greater numberby bigfilsing - Firmware - Marlin
From my limited experience with the Tronxy D01 that uses the same board The 2 Z stepper ports are already wired in series with each other so no FW config is needed!! This is supported by the fact that on my D01 that only has one Z stepper, a 2 links/jumpers are needed in the secondary Z port to allow the primary Z motor to run. Z1 cant function unless Z2 port is occupied by a stepper or the liby bigfilsing - Firmware - Marlin
apologies if this has been covered before I would like to implement filament change M600 but without a simple LCD there doesn't appear to be a way to acknowledge the change has occurred and the print can restart ( even the plugin for octoprint doesnt have a resume function ) I'm using an SKR 1.3 and a 3.5 touch screen Any ideas ?? Thanksby bigfilsing - Firmware - Marlin
I agree with Dust that these LCD problems are often down to plug orientation. With some care you can remove the plug plastic socket on the mother board and rotate it 180 degrees then press it back into place.by bigfilsing - Firmware - Marlin
Quoteampapa Couldn't you just retract the filament beyond the heater and then after a tool change just pre-feed some material? doesn't seem like a big deal to me but maybe I'm over simplifying. A tool change doesn't have to be fast it just has to be accurate. I was thinking about the tool change concept and the accuracy after a tool change, not necessarily about the mount itself but the tool tby bigfilsing - CoreXY Machines
Interesting that they have stuck with BL touch despite the Duet controller. I've had nothing but great experiences with DC's IR probes.. This, assuming its relatively affordable, could be a game changer and get rid of those extremely time consuming and wasteful purge structures.... I'm inby bigfilsing - CoreXY Machines
Quotepatxystage1 I had an interesting experience with this jerk setting. I am building an XYZ stage using 3 ball screw driver linear actuators. For the longest time my motors were jamming when I went anywhere beyond 4 mm/s. Without knowing the effect, I decided to try changing the jerk setting from the default value of 20 to 1 and was able to get to the speed I wanted (5 mm/s). Based on the aboby bigfilsing - Firmware - mainstream and related support
so just to be clear your endstop say triggered whther they are physically triggered or not ??? WHich control board do you have ? WHich firmware have you uploaded ?by bigfilsing - RAMPS Electronics
Quoteheatvent Thanks for the reply. FYI no dim light for me it's just off and on when triggered. Can you give me an idea how the sensitivity adjustment screw works. I turned it about 11 times and it doesn't seem to stop anywhere and also doesn't seem to affect the sensitivity. There are no indicators on the top to show how this should work. For example turning right is more sensitive or lessby bigfilsing - General
Quoteheatvent UPDATE: I tried wiring the sensor directly to 12V with the signal pin disconnected to see if I get better range on the sensor. While the LED light does seem brighter when triggered, I still need to literally touch the sensor head in order to get it to trigger. Any idea if I have a bad sensor and/or if there is a sensitivity adjustment? Normally there's a small adjustment screw neby bigfilsing - General
Hi You don't need to copy and paste all that information every time. 6 to 36 VDC is the operating voltage that the sensor needs to function The voltage you supply it can in some cases effect the sensors sensitivity ( which in turn effects its sensing distance) Normally on FDM printers we only have 12 or 5 VDC and as 5 VDC is lower than the minimum 6VDC it forces us to use 12VDC to power the seby bigfilsing - General
Hi The issue is that the sensor needs 12 volts in order to function BUT the 12 volts ( or in your case 9 volts that comes out of the signal wire is too much for the control board and will probably damage it. Inductive or capacitive just follow the wiring colour code as per the sensor spec ( either spec sheet or marked on the sensor itself) So we use a voltage divider ( 2 resistors) which is aby bigfilsing - General
Hi Zuru what sensor do you have ?? if you are using a capacitive or inductive sensor you need to install a voltage divider. If you hold a metal object close to your sensor does it trigger ??? IF you tell your machine to home Z what does it do ??by bigfilsing - Reprappers
Those are some quite elaborate start and ends scripts That shouldn't make any difference However in your start script you have a G28 !!!! and this in effect throws any bed leveling data out of the window and just uses the X Y Z home positions and whatever offsets you have programmed. Like i mentioned i don't have any experience with the BL touch but what you are saying does seem to indicate itsby bigfilsing - Reprappers
Quotedc42 Quotebigfilsing these kind of sensors are used all day every day in industrial applications. So what are you posting in your thread ??? Yes, but only to detect that a object is near - not where triggering at a precise distance from a target is required. Absolutely but i was more wondering what the post was aiming at ? Inductive or cap sensors have to be better than a micro switch atby bigfilsing - General
these kind of sensors are used all day every day in industrial applications. So what are you posting in your thread ???by bigfilsing - General
ABL does seem to be a bit of a dark art subject All i can tell you is what works for me When you issue a G28 command it eradicates any bed level data the system has gained from a G29 bed level command so dont do it ! By all means home X and Y with G28 X0 Y0 but don't home Z AFTER you have done G29 So heres how i do set up in a terminal ( in pronterface or whatever you are using to control yoby bigfilsing - Reprappers
Hoi Rob Ik gebruik zelf nooit Repetier Ik heb daar geen echte reden voor . Bent gewoon toen de tijd begonnen met Marlin en nooit problemen gehad. Ben well beneuwd hoe het kan dat de buitenste randen so snel zijn . Ik zou erder verwachten dat the binnerste "fill" sneller ging daar waar wij niet so op kwalitiet letten, Ik hoop voor je dat iemand een uitleg kan geven Groetjes Philby bigfilsing - Projecten
I think you will need to change the voltage divider resistor in order to get as close to 5VDC as you can. I cant remember exactly which i used but i ended up with 4.8 volts, Are you sure you didn't have them the wrong way round ?? When using a voltage divider the red light will be lit dimly all the time but become brighter when an object is detected . This is normal Good luckby bigfilsing - General
just an idea to try . Before you flash any new / edited firmware its a good idea to clear the eprom first . look in Arduino under examples > eprom> clear . Upload that sketch then upload you new sketch with ABL Do you have an LCD attached . Makes it easy to check the Z offsetby bigfilsing - Firmware - mainstream and related support
QuoteHenryAT I have an MKS Base V1.3 on my machine which is an HIC Technology Reprap Prusa I3 LCD. Since I completed assembly of the unit, last summer, I have not been able to get it to print properly. I have tried different printing software programs with exactly the same end results from each one. The first layer will print and the subsequent layers do not adhere to the layer below because thby bigfilsing - Firmware - mainstream and related support
where did you get the drivers from ??? Thanksby bigfilsing - Prusa i3 and variants