Quick summary. Kossel, but no Z probe at all, the allen key was so inaccurate it was easier to level the bed manually. I may fit a sensor if I can find one that will work on glass, but at the moment I don't have one at all. So, what is my problem? I have set the home>0 at 231mm in the firmware, it's 1.1.5 and all uploaded, the printer prints ok. However, the LCD Control>Z height shows -by Wibbles - Firmware - Marlin
Hoping someone can assist, I am pulling my hair out with this one. Machine is a Sintron Mini Kossel. Endstops at the top. I am trying to configure the firmware for manual bed levelling from the LCD. Various options are not possible with Delta machines, and the Sintron allen key arrangement is dire, so manual calibration seems the way to go. This is where I hit a problem. Quote//================by Wibbles - Firmware - Marlin
I have a Sintron Kossel, built it ran it for months, it was surprisingly good. I already had a SmartrapPlus, and soon realised that the build area on the Kossel was too small for my model making needs. On top of that, this week all three top brackets split in the same place without provocation. No idea why. I could get injection moulded ones from China, or replacements from Sintron, but I reallyby Wibbles - General New Machines Topics
Does anyone know of a UK supplier of alloy top brackets for these? I have only discovered today that my degrading print quality is due to cracks in all three of mine. No idea why they have failed, the printer stays static in the same place on the workbench, I have asked Sintron UK if they will supply free replacements, but if those fail as well then alloy parts will be the only solution.by Wibbles - Delta Machines
I can understand the problem, but you are looking for a solution using knowledge that you currently have, which places a restriction on reaching the solution to the actual problem, if that makes sense. I have a friend who encountered problems with his printer, and no matter what I advised him to do, he simply pulled plugs out and put them back, or bought new components. He was just hoping that heby Wibbles - Delta Machines
I can honestly say that as far as printing with PLA is concerned, I have two printers and between them have used 4 different hotends over the past 3 years. The cheap Chinese ones were no different from an E3D, they all printed to the same quality. The filament made no difference either, I just buy the cheapest and print at 202 degrees. No heated bed. The Smartrap now has a £1 Ikea mirror as a bedby Wibbles - Delta Machines
Many thanks for offering assistance, but I have found the source of the problem. It is the infamous Sintron probe. Having fitted the ED3 the fins are wider, and these interfere with the spring. This prevents silky smooth bounces, and that means the microswitch doesn't open/close reliably. Having managed to get it working temporarily I worked my way through the entire configuration again, and ranby Wibbles - Firmware - Marlin
I wouldn't argue with that, lol, but as the existing firmware was working ok (a bit of a nightmare to configure it, but hey I learned a lot about Delta printers) I had no reason to update anything. My old Smartrap is still going strong on old firmware after two years, it prints perfectly using any old PLA and a Chinese hotend. Looking at the Github, I have to confess that although I can do a strby Wibbles - Firmware - Marlin
This is mystifying me. Using Marlin firmware that came with my Sintron Mini Kossel, been running fine for months. Self levelling probe was doing what it is supposed to. Printing speed and quality was impressive. Short story, changed hotend for ED3, decided to reset everything as the ED3 was shorter than the original one, and I installed bed clamps to get the bed pretty much level to the towers.by Wibbles - Firmware - Marlin
Going from bad to worse. I noticed that as I had fitted an E3D the levelling probe was too long, so I have shortened that. Hoped it would solve the problem but no... The nozzle is now hitting the glass no matter what I do, I have tried everything that I know. Switch printer on. Hook up USB Run Pronterface G28 home M114 gets me the print height, depending on what it is set to in Marlin. 237.40by Wibbles - Delta Machines
I have had this printer for a long while, it has printed perfectly from the day I set it up correctly. Last week the hotend started unscrewing itself from the cooling block mid print, this allowed melted filament into the top end of the threads, and no amount of playing around with it would let me get the filament out of the threads. I had an almost new E3D sat here so I installed that. Filamentby Wibbles - Delta Machines
All I can add is that I built my Sintron Kossel out of the box, didn't modify anything at all. Running standard Marlin, using the original hotend, binned the alloy bed and installed a glass one. I only print using the cheapest PLA that I can find, and do not have a part cooling fan. I use a PVA glue stick, and don't get any lifting. I almost sold it after I built it as I was convinced that it waby Wibbles - Delta Machines
Rod lengths etc are here: Delta set upby Wibbles - Delta Machines
Glad that you are on the right track, these printers take some understanding but all of a sudden, everything is right and they print like a dream. Amazing quality. The basic Marlin settings are pretty much what is provided by Sintron, the bit that is unique to each printer is all of the measurements and offsets, though it sounds like you have sorted that. The rest is fine tuning, and if it helpsby Wibbles - Delta Machines
Just a suggestion, but have you set Slicr up as a circular print bed? I have two printers, one is a Mini Kossel, the other is a Smartrap. If I forget which printer I am supposed to be sending the Gcode to, it will do exactly what yours just did. I use Cura so its only a couple of clicks to change the printer that I have selected, but when it happens all hell breaks loose.by Wibbles - Delta Machines
I managed to get mine adjusted correctly with the parts that were in the box, very impressed with the speed and quality, the hotend is excellent too.by Wibbles - Delta Machines
Well I got up this morning, sleep does wonderful things. I suddenly remembered that I had an old hotend in a cupboard that had a new cartridge in it. I pulled it out, swapped it into the Kossel, and presto! the printer is now working perfectly again. It seems that the 'new' spare cartridge that I had used is indeed faulty, so that can go in the bin. I asked Sintron for the spec on the suppliedby Wibbles - Delta Machines
I've been printing away on my Kossel pretty much every day, and although all cabling is spiral wrapped etc one of the wires broke off the heater cartridge on the hotend. I happened to have a spare new 12v 40w one so put that in, but is takes forever to get up to 128 degrees and then sticks there? Does anyone know the spec that Sintron supply, eg is it a 12v 25w, 30w, 40w etc? I can't see any marby Wibbles - Delta Machines
I clicked on Check for Updates in Linux and it said that I had the most up to date version being 15.04.6. The Cura site has 2.4 listed as you said. I tried printing the same part using Slicr and got pretty much the same result as I always do, but slightly smoother than Cura. The only other long shot is that when I started out in 3D printing I may have been using my old Windows laptop that is gaby Wibbles - Printing
I use Cura as it so quick and simple to play with. However, there is one thing that has always bugged me and I haven't a clue whether there is a simple solution, so I thought I would try here and see if there is. Pic is attached as an example. In short, where I have multiple horizontal surfaces, only the top one is handled as being the 'top layer' by Cura. I make a lot of model parts and they haby Wibbles - Printing
What can I say? Thanks a million, problem solved. Strangely, I lowered the setting on the LCD all the way down to 50 before the clicking stopped, and then wound it back up 10 at a time to see when it came back...it didn't, I have left it on 95 and it still has a silent extruder. I did a test run of a detailed part at high speed to see whether it under extruded and it ran perfectly. A bit of strinby Wibbles - Delta Machines
Thats quite enlightening, I thought I was dropping way too low at 160, but if yours is 94 that may explain a thing or two. I'll give it a go when I get the chance and post back to say if it has cured the problem. Many thanks!by Wibbles - Delta Machines
This is my setting, the printer was doing exactly 100mm when I originally set it up, but slowing the rate down on the lcd didn't affect the print quality. I went down in steps from 350 to 160, but still get the micro retracts, not as bad, but I can't get rid of them altogether. #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 80, 350} #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {200, 200, 200, 200}by Wibbles - Delta Machines
I use my printers to make model parts that I can't buy as no one makes them. Once configured properly my guess is that any printer will deliver the goods, it's a matter of fixing things so that they are running as nature intended. Getting the right settings in the firmware, and on the slicer software all make a difference, on top of assembling the things properly. I can print 0.5mm sheets on botby Wibbles - Delta Machines
I've never come across that before, how is this achieved? It prints very well, amazingly well in fact, considering the bad press that Chinese hotends get. I was getting a blocked nozzle so stripped it apart and found a tiny length of tube in the throat that I assume they but in to reduce heat transfer, but discovered that it was a very tight fit on the filament, after removing it no more gloopingby Wibbles - Delta Machines
Good to hear that someone else has got theirs up and running. I amazed at how fast this thing prints, my Smartrap+ has the slight edge on quality but then it does have an E3D hotend, but the Kossel will finish a job in a lot less time. Just wish it had a bigger print bed. Since discovering extra firm hairspray (on glass, no heated bed, PLA) I can print 1mm thick sheets that are 100mm+ square onby Wibbles - Delta Machines
The Final Chapter....I got back to working on the configuration and straight off the bat managed a first test print that is better than expected. For the record, I simply assembled what was in the box, never checked angles, lengths or anything else, just made sure that the rods were all identical. Configuring it was a pain as tracking down the info that I needed sent me down a few blind alleys.by Wibbles - Delta Machines
I ended up doing some small X/Y tests and editing the rod length in Marlin, took about four attempts, but I got there. I never thought that this printer would be up and running, but once configured and everything set up how it should be...it works?? lol. It's all standard, as delivered, the only change that I have made is to fit a glass bed. Less than 1mm out over 30mm, and it's less than thatby Wibbles - Delta Machines
Thanks for posting, ok, having got back to applying myself to the configuration I found a site that explained how to use the Escher analysis correctly. I did two passes, and uploaded the settings to Marlin, I am using the standard version. I am now getting very nice quality prints, and I am impressed with the Chinese hotend on this machine, I can't fault that. No warping on long thin prints eithby Wibbles - Delta Machines
Thanks for the Escher link, I filled in the form and it came back saying that all of my measurements were correct, and that nothing needed changing in the Delta configuration.h settings. M665 R125.00 L220.00 <<<This is what I had (I measured the correct radius and it was 125, so entered this into the form). M666 X0.00 Y-0.00 Z-0.00 ; Set homed height 239.10mm in config.h It suggested pby Wibbles - Delta Machines