I have built my Sintron Kossel, I also have a Smartrap that works briliantly, and has done so for 2 years. The Kossel is, to put it plainly, doing my head in. It all works, the only change I have made is to install a glass bed in place of the heated bed as not only do I only use PLA, I don't trust the PSU or the Arduino's with heavy current. The auto bed leveller functions. That aside, I haveby Wibbles - Delta Machines
Have you set up Marlin with the correct LCD screen configuration?by Wibbles - Delta Machines
Ok, I admit defeat. I am printing undersize and not getting proper circles? On a cylinder 6mm tall and 25mm diameter, I am getting appx 4.4 tall and 22.5 diameter. One side of the cylinder is squared off, rather than a maintaining the radius around the circumference. New glass bed fitted, first time I have been able to test it properly. #define DELTA_SEGMENTS_PER_SECOND 120 #define DELTA_DIAGONby Wibbles - Delta Machines
Edit >>>>>Ignore this, but I'll leave it here in case anyone else gets the same problem. I reformatted the SD card, and all is working again. ******************************* Now I have a weird problem... I have been happily doing tests etc, and even did a couple of test prints using the SD card. Today I decided to have another go, but when I selected the file to print from theby Wibbles - Delta Machines
I found this, so it looks like M666 or adjusting the endstops is the solution. Level bed adjustment This is an excellent video that shows how to set the offset for each tower. This should level everything. Three tower offsetby Wibbles - Delta Machines
QuoteOG QuoteOG does it mean that I need to change manual_z_home_pos value ? so it means I need to increase that value for example from 234 to 236 I answer to my self and others who has similar situation.. I decreased my manual_z_home_pos value by 1mm.. so 234 -> is now 233 I ran few offset calibrating rounds and between rounds I tweaked delta_smooth_offset value so I could find centre poby Wibbles - Delta Machines
The problem is manually getting the bed level. I have a 1-2mm difference between the front and the back, plus the centre of the bed is concave. What I don't know is whether the effector is pulling up when it moves to the rear, or whether the bed isn't level. How can I tell which one it is?by Wibbles - Delta Machines
If you are looking at my video, there is supposed to be a gap in the middle, I was using Gcode from parts that I print on my Smartrap. I am wondering, do I get the Kossel bed level by moving the Z tower endstop down 1mm?by Wibbles - Delta Machines
I have exactly the same problem. If I place a steel ruler across the bed I have a gap in the middle. The aluminium plate is concave. I have tried manually levelling the bed, but I cannot get a constant clearance between the bed and the nozzle. There is a 1mm+ gap at the back of the bed. During test runs the printer will print, but I am only testing with PLA, and no heated bed. I can only see thby Wibbles - Delta Machines
Ok, managed at long last to get the printer going as far as probing the complete surface. Had to reinstall Pronterface as that had gone haywire, ho hum, and then had to dig around in the firmware to figure out what affected what. Anyway, these are the probe readings (and yes it does reset on a bolt, Now can anyone tell me whether these readings are good, bad or diabolical, I haven't got a clueby Wibbles - Delta Machines
That will teach me to work on two printers at the same time...the board is ok, the bed levelling microswitch was plugged in on the bottom two pins instead of the top two. Still left with the problem of the self leveller. It was working fine earlier today, but now stabs the same centre spot until it has finished. Pronterface is either needs to be reinstalled or the printer has a setting out of jby Wibbles - Delta Machines
Was carrying on configuring the parameters today, actually had the probe working as nature intended, and then Pronterface decides that it will ignore Z+10 etc, and simply do a Z+infinity. The bed probe that I had working decides to do its own random thing, and then it loses the USB connection, cannot detect a port. Switch everything off, unplug and reconnect...and the Arduino has died before I hby Wibbles - Delta Machines
Thanks to all for helping me out on this, it is much appreciated. I discovered one problem, tension on the probe spring was too slack, it wasn't closing the microswitch. I installed GRandAG's code, and it worked. 1. Lowered the probe manually. 2. G28 then G29. 3. The probe dropped to the bed, then probed as it should. Problems: 1. It only probes a small area of the centre of the bed, though iby Wibbles - Delta Machines
Ok, I admit defeat on setting up the bed levelling. I can't find the chunk of code referred to in the Sintron manual in Main.cpp. I don't trust the spring clip to reposition the allen key, so until I can find an alternative bed probe what I want to do is the following: Manually flick the probe across so that it lowers, let it do its probing, then have it pause for 30 seconds while I manually paby Wibbles - Delta Machines
Many thanks. Steadily getting there...by Wibbles - Delta Machines
Quick clarification needed re Sintron Manual: 9. New MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS value = Old MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS value –current Z value. This new value will defined the Max Print Height. 10. Update #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS __?__ with the new value. My M114 was 235. Brought the nozzle down to the standard paper thickness test. My new M114 is -4.10 So, is my #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS __?__ 235 + (-4.10)by Wibbles - Delta Machines
That's it! That's the right way, I just couldn't figure out how to do it using the parts in the bag. Excellent pic. I have started calibrating my new build, oh this is fun.... Re jigged the Z motor plug, and set them all up from the firmware, so they are all standard now. M114 = 235 XYZ = 425.14 (but this is without editing the Sintron file at all). Ran an M302, tested the extruder motor too.by Wibbles - Delta Machines
This is a complete noob question, but how is the print bed secured to the frame? There are three screws, three square nuts, and three springs, plus a black allen bolt. I cannot figure out how to keep it securely in one place, and can't find anything on the web that shows how the screws and springs should be assembled so that it is. I'm not using the heated bed as I will only print using PLA. I'by Wibbles - Delta Machines
Thanks for the extruder gcode info. I grabbed SJN's config.h file and swapped that into my marlin files, and I am hoping that this will be a closer start point than the Sintron version. Time will tell, I will be back on the case tomorrow hopefully. My initial test via the LCD was to confirm that the motors, speed controllers and end stops were all on the correct plugs and that they functioned. Iby Wibbles - Delta Machines
QuoteSJN OG, have you selectred the correct probe in the marlin firmware ? Try use my config.h file, and see what happens. Wibbles, the extruder will only move when the hotend has reached the temperature preset in the marlin firmware :-) I thought it would be something like that, thanks for the info. I'll try testing the levelling, Z height and all of the other parameters tomorrow. If anyoneby Wibbles - Delta Machines
Ok, I have it all assembled and I've been testing it from the lcd screen using the move axis option in Prepare. The motors were running in the wrong direction, so I turned the X and Y plugs around. The Z can't be reversed because of the plug, so I popped the pins out of the plug and reversed them (There are two black ones so if you do this make sure that you reverse them). I can move each axis upby Wibbles - Delta Machines
Mine was delivered yesterday, only took 3 days to get here. I built 70% of it without downloading the instructions. I don't know about the early kits, but this one has good quality plastic parts, and all bearings etc are a good fit. The rod ends are all solid and don't come anywhere near rubbing on each other, I am going to try the originals before I decided whether to install Traxxas ones. Staby Wibbles - Delta Machines
You are a star, thanks, I'll download the file ready for when I have completed the build. If anyone wants to know how to build the perfect printer, I highly recommend this guys videos on You Tube. Kossel Build Videos , there are about 65 of them, and he goes into massive detail. The problem with the Arduino errors is that some commands have been deprecated in the later versions, especially 1.8by Wibbles - Delta Machines
QuoteSJNI have only upgraded to the traxxas ball links :-) Thanks for the info, I was hoping that you would say that. I can get one for £195 free postage, which by my reckoning is a bit of a bargain. The Smartrap kit cost me £280 2 years ago? Plastic parts do the job, as long as everything lines up properly, that much is down to the quality of the prints. The one thing that I did when I builtby Wibbles - Delta Machines
Ok, I have a Smartrap and it is set up and prints well, but I was looking for a second printer. Ebay was my friend and I came across this printer, but decided to hunt around on the web for info before parting with cash. I read through 26 pages of this monumental tale and was going to hit the idea on the head, but then jumped to the last page and worked backwards. When I saw what SJN was producingby Wibbles - Delta Machines
The temp drops, the heater is held in with an allen screw, and the thermistor is held in with Kapton tape. These were the first thing that I checked, they are still both firmly in place, I can see them while I am typing this. The head definitely cools. The printing process starts, and it gets as far as the brim layer, but then it has dropped down far enough to prevent the pla from flowing. It dby Wibbles - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks for the information. I took a look at this. PID Tuning I was suffering a few of these symptoms, eg Rise to 160 degrees, very slow to 200 degrees. I will order a 25w heater, and try again, it was heating perfectly/printing perfectly before, so the 40w heater may be an issue.by Wibbles - RAMPS Electronics
Printer running fine for almost 2 years. Smartrap, and very pleased with it. Had to unclog the hotend nozzle, unfortunately, when I put it back together the heater element slid out of the block, the flex then broke off one of the wires. No probs I thought, simply bought another heater element, 40w, and fitted it. I replaced the thermistor at the same time. I have a bag of them, so it was the sameby Wibbles - RAMPS Electronics
Well I heard back from Arduino today, they looked at the pics that I sent them and told me it wasn't a genuine one. This was a bit of a surprise to me as it has Made in Italy on the back, a gold chip, and looks identical to the genuine one in their 'genuine vs fake' webpage. Just as well that I ordered a 100% genuine one. That arrived yesterday, I plugged it in, flashed it, and the printer was wby Wibbles - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Interesting info, I wondered what would have caused the failure. I have a text lcd, and a servo/light sensor for the bed levelling. I wasn't aware of how frequently the VR fails on the 2650 until mine did and I started reading up on it. I could theoretically bypass the lcd by running the printer via usb to my pc, but I wouldn't have a clue about where to power the servo from. It needs the signalby Wibbles - Firmware - mainstream and related support