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Hi Group,
If I wanted to implement a G Code interpreter in a different microcontroller (16 or 32 bits preferred) what source code would you recommend? Is GRBL the very latest and best G Code interpreter out there for the DIY industry? Thanks!
by
avayan
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General
I have a little post on stepper wiring here:
I don't think I cover 8 wire steppers, but if you look at the 4 and the 6 wire configurations you will understand most of it. Basically, you have access to the 4 windings. Most of the stepper drivers out there will be for bipolar, so it is your choice whether you will want to wire them in parallel or in series. What do you get?
In parallel, the indu
by
avayan
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Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Yes, it is a 5 phase stepper. What you need, if you ever want to make it work, is to use 5 H Bridges and polarize them in sequence. Have been meaning to do it for quite a while, but have never gotten around it.
5 Phase steppers give some of the best motion quality as the resolution is insane! I have heard of people using them to move telescopes, thanks to said superb motion quality.
I have neve
by
avayan
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Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I know this happened a few eons ago, but...
In any motor, torque is current. What this manufacturer has done is to apply a voltage on the winding and measure how much torque they need to move the shaft away from position. Notice in this case what they are using is an LR Drive. That is, the voltage is applied to an inductor and a resistor, and the current is equal to the equivalent V/R once the i
by
avayan
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Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Hi All,
At first I was plugging the fan directly to my power supply, but recently decided to connect it to one of my controlled power outputs.
In Sprinter I added the code to enable it at all times, since I never saw the fan coming ON or OFF with jobs. I do see G Codes 106 (ON) and 107 (OFF) on Sprinter. Should I assume Replicator G does not utilize these G Codes? Does any SW does in fact coord
by
avayan
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General
Wow! Thanks all for this great information! I have been using the calipers too, but was under the impression that measuring the parts was the expected method. If a slight variation is expected, then I am more than happy.
I did change my X Axis belt so it is the same as the Y Axis. Having two different belts should definitely be frowned upon ;-)
JIQ
by
avayan
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General
Well, I am printing but the output is not perfect. In this case, a mm on either axis does not come out as a mm. This is OK for stuff like the whistle, but when going into gears, perfection is a must.
I found Triffid Hunter's Calibration manual which was extremely useful:
His equation makes sense to me: # microsteps/mm = # steps/rev * # microsteps/step * # teeth/mm(belt pitch) * rev / # teeth (
by
avayan
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General
Hi Group,
Just wanted to thank you for all of your pointers with these questions. I was able to improve on my design considerably and have been printing for a few days. The trick? There were a few fixes, actually. First, I changed from brass to all aluminum. Second, I enclosed the hot end in a ceramic cloth and Kapton tape. Third, I added a fan. Fourth, I stretched by belts to kingdom come and f
by
avayan
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Mechanics
DRV8825 is an awesome driver! That is the one I am using on my 3D Printer and also on my CNC Plasma Cutter. Will eventually use it on my CNC router as well.
On my 3D Printer I am running Sprinter and Replicator G. I am too knew to this 3D Printing phenomenon so went with what I had heard, but will eventually jump to Repetier and Repetier Host, I think.
Here is a video where you can see my DRV88
by
avayan
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For Sale
It seems that a fan is nowadays one of the required elements to get good printing quality. As I tried adding a fan to my 3D concoction, I saw my hot end loosing heat faster than fast.
As I read different forum posts, I saw the same problem popping here and there. The fan must be positioned carefully as to avoid the hot end losing its coveted energy.
What I didn't read anywhere was about adding
by
avayan
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General
Hi All,
Now, that I am capable of depositing plastic into my surface, there are a few observations I have made which I want to corroborate with the experts on this arena. The following observations were made printing the whistle with white PLA at 220C, 20 mm/s feed rate, sprinter firmware, ReplicatorG software.
The extruder is always moving at the same speed, regardless of whether I feel the f
by
avayan
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General
Thanks NumberSix!
Here is a link to my most current extruder:
Now, before I continue with yet another list on how this does not work, allow me to report that I think I have finally stepped into the world of 3D Printing!
Yesterday I decided to remove the last piece of brass (the hot end nozzle and brass barrel) and change them for aluminum. So I took a 1/4" piece of aluminum rod, drilled it, t
by
avayan
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General
Hi Guys!
Thanks to all for your input and words of encouragement! Had to leave the project behind for a few days to focus on work, but am back. Here is an update on how I am still not extruding as I should. I have to say that I do see more plastic coming out, but still not enough to print.
At work I validated the thermocouple is working as it should. I used a Fluke thermal imager and a Fluke th
by
avayan
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General
Awesome input, guys!!!
OK, some data points:
1. Gulf, a little bit ahead of you. I changed from brass to stainless steel. Is it hard to machine? I"LL BE DARNED YES!!! Messed up a bunch of drill bits and then read on the web I was supposed to use cobalt drill bits, medium speed, lots of pressure and coolant. A quick trip to Lowes and harbor freight, and that stainless steel screw had been bored
by
avayan
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General
So I should assume the Extruder controls are not operational? How does people using ReplicatorG test their extruder to see if it is hot enough? Will try Repetier just for curiosity but already know ReplicatorG too well.
by
avayan
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
OK, here are some pictures of my continuous blunder:
I have tried a gazillion different things and none of them work. Basically, I get the first layer printed (some times) and then I get a big blob of plastic somewhere in the barrel making any future progress an impossibility. I have cleaned this extruder at least 50 times and it always clogs the same regardless of what I have tried. Here is a
by
avayan
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Mechanics
OK, I added some pictures here:
I think the problem is I am getting molten plastic in stages. The plastic very close to the hot end is in flowing conditions but as I go up into the barrel, I am getting the rubber consistency ABS. The rubber state is definitely a plug and if it gets bad enough to go into the peek cylinder, them I am hosed and I have to disasemble the hole thing.
I added the PT
by
avayan
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General
Hi Group,
I am in essence "almost printing". My 3D printer, of my own brew, is printing and for a little bit my extruder was outputting plastic. Hurray! Well, not so soon...
The problem I am having is that the plastic is melting in the peek and making a clog which pretty much renders all future printing impossible. I am also getting the entire brass barrel filled with plastic. Now, my brass bar
by
avayan
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General
OK, I checked my electronics and they are perfectly fine. I can enable/disable, change direction and step the four steppers if I apply the signals externally. As soon as I plug the Arduino Mega 2560, then none of the steppers work.
Thanks for the pointer to look at pins.h. I am puzzled by the pin numbering scheme and am trying to understand it but cannot find any reference to it. For example, he
by
avayan
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hi Group,
I am trying to get my very first 3D printer going. It is of my own breed, so there is nothing to relate it to. I guess that will make it harder.
Anyway, I have an Arduino Mega 2560 and uploaded Sprinter with Mother Board option 33 (Arduino Mega with RAMPS)
The driver board is also of my own design as I wanted to use DRV8825's. However, I followed the pinout for the RAMPs design.
Wh
by
avayan
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
I have started to work on my Maker Bot replica. I downloaded the files from the thingiverse and started laser cutting the panels. This has been a mess because the DXF files are not laser ready. So I have been joining node for the past few weeks.
I also have most of the belts, pulleys, screws, rods, bearings, etc. The extruder is on the works. I lathed the nozzle a few weeks ago. Have not tried m
by
avayan
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Texas, Dallas RepRap User Group
I tried pushing trimmer strand through my extruder and I don't think it worked. Maybe it was too hot? It went through, but it was kind of blackened. I am too new to this to offer valuable input, but at the moment I feel like trying it again is not that good idea. It was a pain to clean the extruder nozzle!
JIQ
by
avayan
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Polymer Working Group
220C or 220F? 220C sounds a little bit high, don't you think?
But if it is 220C, then it will have to do. I am using a 6 ohm nichrome wire and I can get it to 220C, however, the thermal jacket I am using is rated at 200C. I wonder how dangerous would it be to extend the usage to 220C?
What other thermal jackets can the group recommend? I am using a zeusinc PTFE sleeve that I bought out of McMas
by
avayan
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
Hi Group,
This may be the dumbest question posted here, but I am darn curious. First of all, I am not a materiologist, as you will soon discover (if not already). Hence, I know nothing about polymers, plastics, etc.
However, I find it quite convenient if we could use trimmer line as the material to plastrude, considering it comes in rolls already and it is virtually available all year long, eve
by
avayan
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Polymer Working Group
I have started to experiment with my nichrome wire and the driver I will use. I see that apparently 2A should do. My question is, what is the temperature that the SW regulates to? Or what temperature do I need to melt the plastic? Has anybody measured this with a thermo couple? Thanks for your input!
by
avayan
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
Excellent!
Can see better now. Anybody has an idea of how much current I need on the 12V rail power supply? I know the ATX Power Supply has quite the capability on the 12V output, but I wonder if I need it all. I will use 24V for the steppers, so I guess is 12V for the extruder heater. But how much current is this? Have not been able to find this parameter on the building pages.
by
avayan
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Controllers
Hi Group,
My first post here, so very excited to get into the RepRap community. I will be getting some bare boards soon and plan on starting my build next week most likely. But I am trying to build them with the bare minimum, so I have a few questions some of you may be able to help me with. Thanks in advance!
1. Do I need the I2C link? It almost looks like the RS485 does all the communication.
by
avayan
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Controllers