Ich habe das skr pro mit Marlin 2.0 am laufen. Ich habe zwar auch Probleme, aber nichts so grundlegendes. Probier statt der offiziellen Marlin 2 den fork von Bigtree. Unter anderem sind die seriellen Ports unterschiedlich.von Srek - Elektrik & Elektronik
Das Ender Ding habe ich bisher nur bis 80c verwendet, ohne Probleme. Ich erwarte auch keine. Bisher habe ich noch von niemandem von einer echten demagnetisierung gehört, immer nur von theoretischen Höchstwerten.von Srek - Druck- und Heizbetten
I once forgot the buildplate and didn’t notice it until i had recalibrated the height to print on the magnetic basevon Srek - General
Ich habe heute das Ender Magnetsystem aus China getestet, das funktioniert prima und ist billig. Mit ABS und TPU muss ich noch testen, aber PETG und Biofusion tun schon Mal Klasse. War im Endeffekt billiger als Eigenbau.von Srek - Druck- und Heizbetten
Klb einfach eine Ferrofolie unter deine DDP. Die verlinkten Folien benutze ich seit über einem Jahr um ABS mit 105C Betttemperatur zu drucken.von Srek - Druck- und Heizbetten
Ich habe das gelöst in dem ich eine PEI Folie auf eine Ferromagnetische Folie geklebt habe. Dann hast du eine Dauerdruckplatte die auf der Magnetoberfläche haftet. Ist auch nicht sehr teuer, ein A4 Stück Ferrofolie kostet unter €5 Von Smagtron habe ich mir auch die Magnetfolie für das Heizbett besorgt Die PEI Folie (Ultem) finde ich im Moment nur als 5 Stück Packung War für mich aber ok, ich hvon Srek - Druck- und Heizbetten
Nice, Bigtreetech told me that their board does not support Dual X, which sounds like a lame excuse to me.von Srek - General
It wasn't clear from the inital posting that you exchanged the heating elements. If you hadn't the power consumption of them would have doubled when switching to 24v. While the stepper motors have a peak current of 1.5 A that is never ever used. Most likely they run below 0.8A. You can get the exact value by measuring Vref and checking the table for your drivers. The board itself usually doesn'tvon Srek - General
You will need to exchange all heating elements since they would havevt twice the power at 24v. Also all fans need 12 v and you would need to check if the leds can work with both voltages. It is not as easy as you might think.von Srek - General
I think he refers to the need to do explicit wiring for the 6150 on the SKR 1.3. The 1.1 pro only needs jumpers set to make the 5160 work.von Srek - General
Cool project Why did you use backing soda?von Srek - Look what I made!
Überhitzte Treiber sollten die Elektronik nicht zum Absturz bringen, ich denke da ist noch was Anderes im Spiel.von Srek - FAQ - Bei Problemen und allgemeinen Fragen ...
Good luck at the show, it is always something special to present your work in front of a live audiencevon Srek - General
No, for Z. It is M8 rod with an additonal belt reduction on a 0.9° stepper. It does not seem to be the only or even main problem though. While reducing homing speed does resolve the initial issue of Z not moving after initial homing try there seems to be another issue. Whenever a certain speed is exceeded the motors become non functional. For some reason the board processes the first Z move at avon Srek - General
So far it seems that the SKR Pro does not get along with a high Z step count. If i use the correct number of steps i have to reduce movement speed to make it work. Maybe the board is just to slow to process the number of steps/mm i need (6464) at normal movement speed.von Srek - General
I wonder about that sometimes as well. For my DuoCube i use axial bearings at the top to hang the rods, then radial bearings at the bottom where i use a belt to drive both rods using one motor. That way the load is stretching the rods, not compressing, and i have the motor on the bottom. Since i use an enclosure i wanted the motors to be as low as possible.von Srek - Mechanics
If it is a RUMBA or any other Atmel based board what you have is an Arduino with sensors and drivers. It is not very hard to write own code for it that measures heat and moves a motor. You don't need, or want, the firmware. Just think oif the printer board as a better CNC shield.von Srek - Developers
I wouldn't build it much larger than that with 2020, Since the movement is happening at the top you have a lot of mass accelerated at the end of a lever, the Z height of the frame. The longer the lever the sturdier the frame needs to be to not distort and vibrate from the movement. You could try to use cross braces to stabilize, personaly i would switch to 3030 and redesign the neccesary parts.von Srek - Mechanics
The 1.3 works fine for me as well, it is only the 1.1 Pro that doesn’t.von Srek - General
Is the Duet 3 available now? It wasn't when i was looking for a new board.von Srek - General
I bought the SKR 1.1 Pro with TMC 6150 drivers from them which looked like a good deal. Sadly i ran into trouble when the board did not work as advertised. Even though i tried Bigtree Techs own Marlin fork as well as the official one it refused to work. I contacted their support, which i had to do already because they did not send the drivers on first try, and got a fast but completely useless rvon Srek - General
What Hotend do you use? The Merlin is a PEEK/Teflon hotend and withstands ABS printing temperatures without any problems. Correctly cooled i printed PC at 265°C with it. If the parts are small a real enclosure is not needed, a temporary cover (mylar foil works nicely) is all it needs. Even an old shipping box put over the printer can work as a temporary solution. As long as you have >50°C in tvon Srek - Mechanics
QuoteAzubi18 Welche Form von Problemen denn?von Srek - Allgemeines
Ich wäre auch interessiert ob das Bigtreee SKR Pro 1.1 läuft. Ich habe damit so meine Probleme. Das SKR 1.3 läuft aber problemlos.von Srek - Projekte
Das SKR 1.3 funktioniert bei mir hervorragend, leider im Gegensatz zum SKR Pro 1.1 das mir echte Probleme macht.von Srek - Allgemeines
What exact hotend do you use (manufacturer & type) and how is it cooled (picture)? One of the most common reasons for this is that the upper part of the hotend, above the heatbrake, get's to hot. This can be due to bad or no cooling, crappy hotend, incorrectly assembled hotend ...von Srek - General
If the filament melts in the throat the cooling is insufficient. It should only melt below the heatbrake.von Srek - Printing
Ich drucke kein PLA, aber für ABS und TPU funktioniert mein magnetisches Setup mit PEI Folie exzellent.von Srek - Druck- und Heizbetten
I don't know how to compare the prusa and my solution. Both just work. There are some companies offering such a flexible magnetic solution, many claim that you can't use them at ABS temperatures. Mine works fine @105°C without loosing magnetism. I use this foil Since using two foils on top of each other is not optimal (stripe shape of the magnetic fireld) a flexible solution should use a ferromvon Srek - Reprappers
I use a magnetic foil on an aluminum bed for my removable bed, it works just fine. At first i feared the magentic foil would pose a problem with heat conduction, but thermal imaging revealed that it actualy only evens out heat distribution.von Srek - Reprappers