Hello, the firmware is 1.20.1RC2. It seems that the hotend problem was caused by the M572-parameter so the only temperature which is too low is the bed temperature as with the Duet 0.6. At room-temperature both sensors shows about 20°C. E3D-Thermistor for the hotend and china-Thermistor for the bed. Best regards, Svenvon Treito - Duet
Hello, when I enable interpolation the stepper motors stutters at small moves especially the Extruder always and the others for example at the front of the 3DBenchy. Are the motors not compatible or is there another problem? The motors wer equipped with the Micromake D1. Best regards, Svenvon Treito - Duet
Hello, I switched the Delta to Duet WiFi, but now both temperatures shown are far too low. Especially PLA does not print @190°C because it is still too hot! Any ideas? Best regards, Sven ; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 1.20 or newer) ; executed by the firmware on start-up ; ; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Sun Jan 14 2018 12:18:53 GMT+0100 (Mitteleuropvon Treito - Duet
80°C means 63°C in real. 120°C reading means 103°C in real. 135°C reading means 117°C in real. The issue is most probably caused by the position of the Thermistor as it is far away from the surface. Both of my cores will be equipped with a Thermistor screwed into the aluminium plate but unfortunately this is not possible for my Delta.von Treito - Duet
That is not the problem as the room temperature is shown normally. However the Thermistor position is far away from the upside. It is integrated in the silicone heater. 8mm Aluminium with a diameter of 220mm and on top is a FilaPrint. I simply need to add 17 to the temperature shown, but how? BTW the heater cartridge is working well.von Treito - Duet
That changes the temperature only by 3°C.von Treito - Duet
M305 P0 T100000 B3950 H-5 R1000 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0 M305 P1 T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 R1000 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1von Treito - Duet
Hello, the readings are far too low. I have a nearly constant offset of 17°C. How can I fix the readings? I tried the H and L values but this is not working properly. The problem is the setup. Silicone heater with integrated Thermistor, aluminium plate (8mm and a diameter of 220mm). Merry Christmas, Svenvon Treito - Duet
I exchanged the bed heater completely but the problem still persists. So it seems that there is a problem with the Duet? Is it possible that the two pins from the sockets of the heater and the Thermistor may be connected? Next time when I remove the bed I will test it.von Treito - Duet
Yes, but I have an idea to mix 2 designs from Thingiverse and the third part I designed, but I have no idea if this will work.von Treito - Ormerod
Hello, have anyone switched to such kind of an update? I cannot find any suitable designs at thingiverse. Best regards, Svenvon Treito - Ormerod
I did my OM2 from scratch. The spring loaded extruder is really a great improvement. Next step will be a TR8 leadscrew.von Treito - Ormerod
Hello, if I try to heat my bed the temperature is irregular. Also if the temperature is reached it is changing by some degrees. Where I have to look for the fault? I use a silicone heater with builtin thermistor. Duet 0.6 from Replikeo. Best regards, Svenvon Treito - Duet
Yes I know. I had two faults. There were short circuits from the heater cartridge to the aluminium block and later from the Thermistor to it. As I saw smoke and detected the surface of the SAM was nearly liquid I knew it was too late. But hey, the web-interface told that there was a heater fault and the Duet was working until the power shutdown. I upgraded the heated bed to a surface that seems tvon Treito - Duet
I see. I got the comments here wrong and did not read fully. BTW I have a blown up Duet 0.6.von Treito - Duet
Hello, I updated my Ormerod 2 to Duet WiFi. I connected the part cooling fan to FAN0 and the Extruder fan to FAN1. Now the Extruder fan is often turnt off during printing and the part cooling fan is also not working very well. Slicer is S3D. Any ideas? ; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 1.17) ; executed by the firmware on start-up ; ; generated by RepRapFirmware Configurationvon Treito - Duet
I recently bought one sensor from makerdise.com and a second one is on its way. Could I have this problem, too? Should I check them? And how? I will use them about the end of the year. Before my OM2 burnt I could test it on black aluminium. The results were spectacular.von Treito - Duet
Okay much better as smoke from the Duet and a really melted processor. But I will pay even more attention at the future the cartridge was old, so I did not believe there could be any problems with it and a Thermistor? I was soo wrong.von Treito - Duet
I think I got it so that every version is somehow fixable. My 0.6 was smoking. The top of the processor was nearly liquid.von Treito - Duet
Hello, I use Fusion 360 I think you did not get the question. If I would change the direction of the heated bed to the z-axis it would not be an Ormerod anymore. That is why I am asking. At the moment I try to finish a CoreXY, but my Ormerod 2 needs more attention than I thought. Best regards, Svenvon Treito - Ormerod
Hello, my Duet 0.6 burnt yesterday after I had a double fault. The heater cartridge was short circuited to the aluminium block. As I tried to tighten the nozzle the Thermistor must have been got in contact with the block, too. As far as I know the Duet WiFi is protected against such kind of fault, isn't it? Best regards, Svenvon Treito - Duet
Hello Brian, you should read the description precisely. The diode is connected the other way round. So if the output is 5V there is no current as 5V is higher than 3,3V. If the sensor is triggered (if NO easier to explain) the output voltage drops to 0V. Now the current can flow and the input is also triggered.von Treito - Ormerod
The disadvantage is that this part is only sold by very few shops. My idea is to bring it to easy available parts and to offer an Extruder which can be used also for other printers like Delta.von Treito - Ormerod
I'm considering to design an Extruder with a standard MK8 gear as it seems that the Ormerod Extruder is the best I have found yet. But I have no time at the moment so it will be around 2017-10-03 until I can finish the designvon Treito - Ormerod
The idea would be to support the arm at the front with keeping the shape as far as possible. A more stable frame reducing the problem of twisted rods and so on. I am wondering if this would worth the amount of work or if I should simply construct a simply design which will not have much in common with the Ormerod. Besides you could put the printer into a closet.von Treito - Ormerod
Hello, I am considering to design a new version of an Ormerod, but how is the interest? What change would be important and what details should I keep? Best regards, Svenvon Treito - Ormerod
It's strange. I used a test pattern of 102*102mm. I got a nearly good grid except for the outer area nearby x=-50mm and y=+50mm. The x side is bowed in. It seems that there is a mechanical issue but what?von Treito - Delta Machines
Many thanks for your answer. The best results I indeed got with a rod length of 211mm. I guess that is why Micromake used 210mm in Cura. For calibration I use an inductive sensor at the moment. I am not sure if a mini height sensor board would be more accurate.von Treito - Delta Machines
Hello, I switched my Micromake D1 to 24V DC and replaced the controller with a Duet 0.6. When printing a test cube of 20x20x50mm I get a cube of 19.5x19.5x50mm. Which parameter is wrong? The strange thing ist that the diagonal rod length is 217mm measured and confirmed by others, but Micromake uses 210mm in Cura. Best regards, Svenvon Treito - Delta Machines
You cannot do nothing wrong with an original E3D V6 or a good clone. The advantage is that there a some designs available to mount it to the Ormerod.von Treito - Ormerod