Wenn Du die Gewindestange in etwa im Schwerpunkt des Druckbetts anbringst, dann sollte das auch reichen. Ist aber wahrscheinlich wenig praktisch, könnte ein klein wenig beim Drucken im Weg sein... ;-) Ne im Ernst: Das Druckbett ohne viel Spiel rauf & runter zu bewegen geht nur mit Z-Antrieb(en) einigermaßen symmetrisch um den Schwerpunkt. Bei nur einem Z-Antrieb heißt das halt "mittig", was nvon Inhumierer - Allgemeines
Hey, this Bresenham's algorithm is indeed a very nice piece of work, I didn't knew this before. This would speed up the calculation of ellipse or circle parts on weak 8 bit processors a lot. So the main problem remains: In the 3D models there are circles. This information needs to reach the 3D printer, but this will not work with STL files.von Inhumierer - Printing
Can you post your STL, so others may check slicing?von Inhumierer - Repetier
The 3D printer firmware has to convert any (part of a) circle into small linear movements anyway, if those arc codes are used. The circle is split into a number of linear parts, and with increasing this number, the closer the result will be at the real circle. Having all the extruded filament exactly on this circle would need infinitive parts, which is not possible. The more parts/segments, the cvon Inhumierer - Printing
Hallo zusammen, hat jemand schon Erfahrungen mit einem Filastruder o.ä. gemacht? Oder gibt's gar - im Idealfall im Ruhrgebiet - jemanden, der son Ding hat? Ich hab noch ein paar Hemmungen, Geld auszugeben ohne handfeste Erfahrungen. Dafür kann man ja auch schon einige Spulen Filament kaufen... Gruß, Inhuvon Inhumierer - Allgemeines
Sometimes overextrusion can look like this. You should try to decrease the flow to 90% or 95% and see if it something changes.von Inhumierer - Printing
When I assembled the parts, I noticed that at least a part of the excessive material is used as support for higher layers, correct. But at least a part of the bigger part (the lower red "x" at the picture) isn't used, and the complete partial cirle - the upper red "x" at the picture - isn't needed. A link to the file? Sure, the original Nophead repository has the plastic parts. So I wondered if tvon Inhumierer - Mendel90
Hi, I just fixed my old extruder, and while printing parts for a new E3D mounting block, I noticed there is some exceed material inside the tunnel for the hobbed bolt, see red mark in picture. On some layers, there is material printed inside the tunnel. Is that by purpose? Does this have a reason I didn't understand?von Inhumierer - Mendel90
Is there anything in the logs? Possibly your controller board thinks an endstop is triggered. Use NC (normally closed) endstops against ground, with pullup resistors. Try to lead your endstop wires away from your motor wires. Twist the wires in pairs.von Inhumierer - General Mendel Topics
No worries, take your time. But from the pictures, the layers aren't identical. Can you post the GCode or the STL? Does the shift happen with other objects, too? Maybe try to rotate the object - later ;-)von Inhumierer - Printing
The layer when this happens is the first layer where the outer, smaller holes start to show. The infill is somewhat interrupted and there are smaller lines. Maybe your printbed is moving in Y axis in a special speed/acceleration, where the load is a bit higher than on longer infill lines below this layer. Possibly this is the bit too much, so your bed looses a step. You could swap back your drivevon Inhumierer - Printing
Yea I think in Slic3r there is no raft setting, at least I didn't find one I use(d) a 2 loop 4mm distance 5mm minimum extrusion skirt to clean the nozzle and press air out, then a 3mm brim to adhese the object. In the Slic3r settings, "Print Settings", "Infill" uncheck "Only retract when crossing perimeters" - this will give a retract on every head movement crossing any part of the object, notvon Inhumierer - Printing
Try using a brim, maybe 3mm. If the print head knocks off the object, there is a slicing option to raise the head prior to crossing perimeters, and/or raise the head when retraction is done.von Inhumierer - Printing
It's a brass union nut - hope this is the right translation It fixes the nozzle and is screwed from below against the heatbreak. You can see it in the building instructions linked above. The shop will replace the nozzle, and I'm waiting for my ebay orders to arrive.von Inhumierer - Printing
Not really a collet vise. There's a ring at the top of the hotend, 3 screws with washers press it against the holding. Hotend should be Wade compatible, it's the one that came with my Mendel90 kit: building instructions. The thermal barrier is made of some very hard duroplaste or ceramic, stays pretty cool on top even without a fan. And yes, you're right, it's oozing. It's not cleary visible at tvon Inhumierer - Printing
Good advice, thanks again. Unfortunately my next experiments will be delayed somewhat. After cleaning & reassembly I manually moved the nozzle short way above an unheated bed and pushed some filament into the heated extruder, carefully by hand. ABS flakes aroused at the side of the nozzle. Did a video with my endoscopic cam, but the quality is very very poor. Afterwards did some photos - notvon Inhumierer - Printing
I've been using Slic3r 1.29 for now, and after some more reading wikis etc. I read that Slic3r has (had?) a problem if the extrusion width is set to "auto", so I changed it to be 0.4mm - my nozzle width. It didn't really change a lot. After some more reading I changed the layer heigth from 0.3mm to 0.2mm. Things improved, but of course printing time shoots up through the roof. It got somewhat betvon Inhumierer - Printing
Forgive my maybe stupid question, but how do you connect Pronterface to a printer by wifi?von Inhumierer - Printing
Did you check your endstops? Send "M119" to the printer, and repeat this while switching your endstops by hand. What do you read?von Inhumierer - Printing
Connect your heatbed to the 12V & GND rail of your power supply directly for a few minutes. What temperature do you reach? Can you measure voltage & current?von Inhumierer - Printing
Hi, I'm printing ABS on a Mendel90 at temp. 244, small or visible perimeters at 30 mm/s. After playing around with various numbers I'm mostly satisfied with my print quality, except concave perimeters get no good bonding to the rest of the object, especially small holes for screws or similar look messy. Any more experienced 3D printer expert got an idea? Would be really appreciated, as I'm very nvon Inhumierer - Printing