I put the finished parts in the oven yesterday. 140° for about 30min, covered in fine sand to avoid warping. Seems to work fine, after wearing them half a day they have held their shape well.von RaoulDuke - General
QuoteRaoulDukeI contacted Extrudr about this and they told me to anneal the parts at 140°C for two hours. I just noticed this is not exactly what they told me. They wrote 140°C for 20 minutes, then slowly cool over several hours. No idea how important slow cooling is, probably more so the thicker the parts are.von RaoulDuke - General
I just did a test run on a leftover part. Stuck the part in fine sand, put in the oven at 140°C for about 30min, then turned the oven off and let everything cool down. I tested one of two identical parts, both sanded with 600 grit sandpaper. Surface looks exactly the same after annealing, no craters or stuck grains of sand. The annealed part no longer becomes soft in hot tap water. Now i´m runnivon RaoulDuke - General
Quoteobelisk79 Annealing PLA is done at 60C: Ziplock bags are good up to 100C: foil would deform the surface of the print I still think a bad would be your best option. Ziplock bags are out then, i need about 140°C to anneal Greentec Pro.von RaoulDuke - General
Remolding frequently is what i do at the moment I don´t know how heat resistant ziplock bags are, maybe aluminum foil to keep the sand away?von RaoulDuke - General
I printed some new temples for my glasses out of Greentec Pro. The parts look and work fine, but i can easily bend them after heating them with hot tap water (about 60°C i guess). When bent to fit my head, the parts slowly revert to their old shape over the next few hours. I contacted Extrudr about this and they told me to anneal the parts at 140°C for two hours. How can i do this without the parvon RaoulDuke - General
Damn, I just thought of an even simpler arrangement, only to find out someone beat me to it. Look here and here for more info. They both drive the rods directly though, adding the motors to the moving mass.von RaoulDuke - Mechanics
I have little time at the moment, but then i have a set of steppers and electronics lying around...von RaoulDuke - Mechanics
I did not bother to draw the rolamite ribbon, but I hope you get the idea. The fishing line wraps around the rod before going to an idler on the opposite side. It would probably help to wrap it around the rod again on the return path, but that would make the drawing more confusing. The idea is to rotate the rod using the fishing line, then the rolamite will convert the torque to linear motion.von RaoulDuke - Mechanics
Hi! I have this idea to build a printer using the ultimaker kinematics with the two crossing rods themselves as rollers in a rolamite. This way, I would only need two parallel spaced flat beams on each side of the frame to form the channels for the rolamite (stacked t-slot extrusions with one flat side would work). The rods would be driven by fishing line wrapped around one end. This way, i shoulvon RaoulDuke - Mechanics
Quotesobo84 Das Hotend soll nicht die Wärme innen behalten... Mein Kommentar bezog sich auf die Hitzebarriere (den Teil, der aus Keramik gemacht ist). Der soll genau das tun!von RaoulDuke - Projekte
Für das Hotend würden sich Microballons als Füllmaterial anbieten. Spart Gewicht und isoliert sehr gut.von RaoulDuke - Projekte
Man kann sich auch einfach einen Zwischenring drucken, damit wandert der fokussierbare Nahbereich näher an das Objektiv. Wenn man die Kontakte zum Objektiv durchschleift, funktionieren sogar Blende und Autofokus noch.von RaoulDuke - Offtopic
Ein bisschen Öl auf dem Filament wirkt manchmal Wunder... Wenn Du die Probleme nur bei den ersten paar Metern von jeder Rolle hast: Ein Kollege von mir hatte das gleiche Problem, da war das Filament mit Klebeband auf der Rolle fixiert. Scheinbar haben sich da Rückstände des Klebefilms im Extruder gesammelt. Sollte das bei Deinen Rollen auch so sein, würde ich die erste Lage abrollen und wegwerfenvon RaoulDuke - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
Mein PrintrBot hat das gleiche Problem. Bei RepetierHost skaliere ich einfach alle Objekte um 1.02 in X- und um 0.98 in Y-Richtung, danach drehe ich sie um 45° um die Z-Achse. Problem halbwegs gelöst...von RaoulDuke - Software
Probier mal PLA, das gleitet hervorragend auf Aluprofilen. Einfach ein paarmal hin und her schieben, Silikonspray drauf und fertig...von RaoulDuke - Projekte
Verkaufe folgende Makibox Teile: -Alle Kunststoffteile bis auf Extruder / Hotend -Alle Führungsstangen -die beiden kürzeren Gewindespindeln Also im Prinzip die komplette Box ohne Elektronik, Motoren, Extruder/Hotend, Endschalter und die lange Gewindespindel. Die Box war einmal halb montiert, soweit ich sehen kann habe ich nichts kaputt gemacht... Sollte in ein kleines DHL-Paket passen, 60€ inklvon RaoulDuke - Schwarzes Brett
Here is on of my parts, the small part holds a rack to drive to x-axis. I think using sliders that go into the slots make the part less prone to tilting, but I haven´t done the math yet...von RaoulDuke - Extruded Aluminum Frames
So far, my printer is far from complete, so i have no long term experience. The guy who built the kossel mini didn´t use adjustable sliders, and I think the part in your picture is overengineered. Someone put some research into this (can´t find the page right now) and found that the aluminum wears more than the PLA, so an adjustable silder will just jam on the more worn sections of aluminum evenvon RaoulDuke - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I am just now building a printer out of t-slot extrusions. I plan to use printed PLA sliders, so far it looks very promising. I just print the parts to fit the extrusions exactly (too tight to move) , then heat them up with hot water and force the slider over the extrusion. I then move the silder across the whole range of motion and after a few seconds it moves freely. I think the PLA leaves somevon RaoulDuke - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Here is my printer using bits and pieces from the failed makibox project. I use 20x20mm and 40x20mm t-slot extrusions for the frame and printed pla sliders as bearings. Linear motion is via the makibox lead screw on z and rack and pinions on x and y. So far, z and y work (no limit switches yet), and i´m working on the moving build platform.von RaoulDuke - Extruded Aluminum Frames