Hi,. i searched for kapton-heater or silicone-heater or something on ebay, then i found it. For the glass, i bought a spring-form with a glass bottom (really, for baking cake ;-)). It cost about 15€ or something, its round, heat-resistent, flat...everything i needed.von stahlsau - Delta Machines
well that's an in-depth answer, thanks for all the information. I never really thought about this, but i always thought higher holding torque equals higher power output.von stahlsau - General
in industry it is common practice that the belt is run over idlers without teeth. It IS important that the minimal radius of the belt isn't underrun, this would make it wear much faster, but the idlers without teeth are totally ok.von stahlsau - Mechanics
I've little experience with other hotends, but from my own experience with the jhead and what i read on the net, go with a jhead. It just simply works out of the box.von stahlsau - Reprappers
die Geschwindigkeit ergibt sich aus den Umdrehungen des Motors, Ritzel-Zähnezahl und Teilung des Gurtes etc. Die ist also im Prinzip bekannt. Hier gings eher darum, welche Beschleunigung die Bauteile verkraften, und die Beschleunigung ist mit "normalem" Aufwand m.E. nicht zu messen.von stahlsau - Allgemeines
wie siehts denn bei den deltas aus, Rostock oder Kossel, gibts da Erfahrungswerte? Bei mir steht da 9000 bei allen Achsen, ist das realistisch? Ich kann da jetzt optisch keinen großen Unterschied erkennen wenn ich den Wert reduziere.von stahlsau - Allgemeines
You can use the loctite as a glue for the gear itself, too. I did it, and it is holding even without a grub screw. Additionally, you could file a flat on the extruder shaft, then you won't have to tighten the grub screw that hard.von stahlsau - Mechanics
if it's a slipping extruder gear, you could try filing a flat on the extruder shaft, and turn the gear so that the grub screw hits the flat. Then that problem should be gone.von stahlsau - Reprappers
My experience with them: I've purchased a ramps bundled with some other stuff from them and I'm pleased with the service and quality - of course it takes some time to ship, but price (and delivery was free afair) and quality are worth the waiting.von stahlsau - General
that looks really nice, i can barely see the layers. Wish my printer would print that fine...von stahlsau - General
QuoteDrickes2 Hallo, gibt es denn keine anderen Alternativen? Wäre bereit bis 250 Euro auszugeben. Gruß Karl Klar. Da nutzt es aber nichts, mit Geldscheinen zu wedeln, da muss man sich ein bisschen einlesen, etwas Eigeninitiative ist gefordert.. Z.B. hier reprap.org gibts einige Vorschläge dazu.von stahlsau - Software
hast du vielleicht das Druckbett schlecht ausgerichtet? Wenn der Düsenabstand nicht stimmt, haftet es schlecht oder gar nicht. Oder ist es schwarzes Filament? Dem werden hier im Forum alle möglichen negativen Eigenschaften nachgesagt, kann das selber nicht beurteilen. Ich würde mal versuchen, beim ersten layer mehr PLA zu extrudieren und langsamer zu fahren, ich fahre manchmal nur mit 10 (mm/minvon stahlsau - Druck- und Heizbetten
wie man die Beschleunigung misst bzw. optimiert würde mich auch interessieren. Ich hab da auch lauter Zauberwerte drin. Vielleicht die Standardwerte auf 10000 stellen, so dass die Beschleunigung durch die (in dem Fall niedrigeren) max-Werte begrenzt wird, und dann ausprobieren, was geht? @killer: vielleicht könntest du deine mal hochladen, nur zum Vergleichvon stahlsau - Elektrik & Elektronik
Hallo, ich hatte die kurzen genommen. Würde aber die langen empfehlen, da man dann ein 214x214 Standard-Heizbett reinbekommt. Bei mir passts nämlich genau NICHT. Argh.von stahlsau - Mechanik
I'm using the glass bottom of a "spring form" (a form for baking cake). It's only 10€ on Amazon and the glass is heat-proof. Anyways, i guess no type glass will take harm of the little heat from the heatbed - it could crack though if it is much larger than the heatbed and there is only a small part of it heated.von stahlsau - General
ok, i got you wrong then. Can't help you with this one, but I'll keep an eye open...the autoleveling is the next on my list to get working ;-)von stahlsau - Delta Machines
Thanks for the input, I've bought a kapton-heater now from a different source, as I'm not from the US it would've been too expensive with shipping and so on.von stahlsau - Delta Machines
you could steer the printhead from homing position stepwise to the position with pronterface (and remember how many steps it took), then you can estimate at which coordinates it is located. Then you can send the command (slow speed, for trying) via the console, for example: "G0 F1000 x=.. y=.. z=.." (correct me if I'm wrong ;-))von stahlsau - Delta Machines
Quoteddseeker (think this post might better answers your question, "Kossel with heated bed - how is it possible?") yep, it does ;-) Thanks for the link with the round heatbed, didn't notice there are round ones around. Anyways, it hassles me having the hotbed here and not beeing able to use it, I'll investigate further. And I don't give up yet, I guess there are at least 25 kossels on this foruvon stahlsau - Delta Machines
Besides a possible difference in adoption between EU and USA, I guess it's necessary to differ a bit more: Obama probably didn't know about reprap, I assume he talked about SLS or core-making or other professional uses of 3D-printing. So it's quite a difference if there are lots of hobby-3D-printers in EU (that are active in forums or community, so that you know of them), or if there are many prvon stahlsau - General
Quoteddseeker If you get impatient, you can try the Search function. Well, I did. Impressive 11 results for "kossel heated bed", one of them is this thread, none of them answers my question. 2 results for "kossel heatbed", not much more for similar searches. Searching for Rostock or similar machines won't help, since the build-area is much larger there and the heatbed will fit out of the box.von stahlsau - Delta Machines
Thanks, I've ordered it already. I just wondered if nobody uses a heated bed with a kossel, it seems unlikely to me. Or, if i would use a one size smaller heated bed, it would steal too much of the build area. There are quite some people using a kossel, i guess someone has a tip for me, i'll wait ;-)von stahlsau - Delta Machines
just an idea from a beginner: couldn't you simply cut the filament before the extruder, and join it with the other color filament (maybe melt it with a lighter or something)? You could do this during the print. Of course it wouldn't hit the exact layer, but I think it would be an easy way.von stahlsau - Printing
Hello together, I've built a mini-Kossel and I've got some serious problems getting the PLA to stick on the glass bed. After reading in the forums, I've purchased a heated bed MK2b. Long story short, it doesn't fit into the Kossel. It's just about 5mm on each side, but it's 5mm too much. I've already ground some of the heatbed off on both sides (almost up to the copper layer), but it still doesnvon stahlsau - Delta Machines
this won't work, the rod-ends are missing one degree of freedom - in direction of the arrow-"Drehachse". The way you designed it, it can only move straight up or down, and only in the center of the build area, if the rods are same lengths. You need some sort of uniball-joints, or the usual Traxxas-balljoints or something like that. Servo on the printer head - probably the extruder? Guess it won'von stahlsau - Mechanics
sweet skeleton. Are the 3D-files available?von stahlsau - Reprappers
von mir nur ein Vorschlag, der weniger "in depth" geht als die Antworten der meisten anderen: gibts nicht ne Möglichkeit, eine "ungelesene Beiträge anzeigen"-Funktion zu implementieren? Ich finde es sehr umständlich, immer alle Unterthemen durchgucken zu müssen. Sorry falls das schon öfter Thema war, hab den Thread nur gerade mal durchgelesen und dabei kam mir die Idee das hier zu posten, hab jetvon stahlsau - Internes zu Forum & Wiki
nur mal meine 2 cent dazu: ich habe bei Chartup letzte Woche die Streben für den Kossel komplett für ca. 50 € inkl Versand bekommen (hab den genauen Preis nicht mehr im Kopf), fertig auf Maß gesägt und fix geliefert. Wer da noch meint, irgendwo ginge es biliger und besser...naja. Bin nicht mit denen verwandt und bekomme keine Provision, ist nur ein Erfahrungsbericht.von stahlsau - Mechanik
Denke schon das es an der Temperatur liegt - hast du Kühlkörper auf den Bauteilen (pololus etc.)? Und das Heizbett über nen Relais zu schalten bringt sicher was.von stahlsau - Elektrik & Elektronik
Quotedw1991 problem solved. I only changed display unit to mm but forgot to change system unit to mm. thanks for the info, this might be my problem too. I'm using inventor, and all files are scaled by 0.1.von stahlsau - General