Ich hatte das Problem mal in meiner Werkstatt. Jedesmal, wenn ich das Licht (Leuchtstoffröhre) ausschaltete, dann stoppte der Drucker. Die Störungen könnten also auch von einem anderen Stromverbraucher via 230V Leitung kommen. Jetzt hab ich LED-Leuchten in der Werkstatt und das Problem ist verschwundenvon enif - Elektrik & Elektronik
You might also consider wiring the two Z-motors in series instead of parallel, this way you are sure that both motors will always get exactly the same current.von enif - RAMPS Electronics
Wenn du noch einen anderen Arduino (Uno, Nano, Mega...) hast, dann würde ich den als ISP Programmer konfiguriern und den Bootloader nochmals neu flashen (falls überhaupt je einer drauf war...), siehe hier.von enif - Software
@Weskrauser: I think that you should insist that your seller sends you the configured(!) source of the firmware for your printer. Because without it, you won't get far anyway. Sooner or later you want to do some upgrade of hardware or software, and then you'll need to be able to flash the firmware again. If your seller does not want to give you the configured source code, you will be better ofvon enif - Controllers
Are you sure that what you are seeing in the first 3 seconds after powering on is not just due to the boot process, i.e. just happening in the time between power on and the firmware starts controlling actively the pins? I don't have a Melzi, but also on my Sanguinololu the fan turns for a few seconds before Marlin has bootet and switched if off. And the LED on the RAMPS also blinks for a secondvon enif - Controllers
QuotedintidJust main fork marlin 1.0.2. - The file "conditionals.h" no longer exists in that build. It's not "no longer" but rather "not yet", these new files (Conditionals.h, pins_XXX.h, ...) were introduced in 1.0.3dev (which is the one I am using) and are now also in the newest release candidate 1.1RC.von enif - Controllers
Why do you define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER if you have an I2C OLED? Have you tried with SH1106_OLED_I2C_CONTROLLER or SSD1306_OLED_I2C_CONTROLLER along with the changes described earlier in this thread?von enif - Controllers
QuoteSamlol I have a problem with I2C Display. My SD-menu is very slow like this: video Please tell us more about your setup. Which printer controller? Which firmware and version? What pin configuration are you using for OLED, encoder and SD-card? Any other add-ons?von enif - Controllers
Quotedintid Anyone got it to Work with the new Marlin firmware, where the "Conditionals.h" file no longer exists? Which version do you refer to, exactly?von enif - Controllers
If you just need one additional thermistor, you can just connect it to T2. If you need to connect more thermistors, you can use any of the non-used analog inputs on connectors AUX-1 (A3, A4) and AUX-2 (A5, A9, A10, A11, A12) and connect the thermistor using the same R=4k7 C=10uF circuit as is used for T0,T1,T2 (see the RAMPS schematics). So the hardware part is easy, but you will also need to mvon enif - RAMPS Electronics
Quotevillainous The power supply I have has two outputs, so if I were to tie them together theoretically I could get 24V into the printer. In addition to dentist's point, it is also quite likely that the 2 outputs of your power supply are not galvanically isolated from each other, so that they share a common ground. In this case trying to combine them in series would result in a short.von enif - Controllers
If the heating of your hotend is very weak and needs all the power just to climb to 185C, it is normal that it will cool down when printing and is fed with new (cold) filament. Check if the connections of the heater are ok and measure the resistance R of the heater, then compute with the voltage U of your power supply compute the wattage P=U*U/R, which should probably be at least 25W, but bettervon enif - Controllers
Are you sure that your printer supports the (very high) HOMING_FEEDRATE and your DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE for the Z-axis that you are using? If not, your Z-motors might loose steps and get out of sync. Does the problem still persist if you lower the Z feedrates to 2 or 3 mm/sec? Once that works, you can slowly go up with the values again and see how much still works okay.von enif - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Dein Link zeigt aber auf ein Widerstandsnetz mit 4 Widerständen in einem Gehäuse und die 1/4W Belastbarkeit bezieht sich auf die Summe aller 4 Widerstände. Im Prinzip kannst du die 1/2W leistung schon auf 2x 1/4W parallel verteilen, aber ich würde da nicht zu knapp rechnen mit der Leistung und besser gerade auf 1W (resp. 2x 1/2W) gehen. PS: Brauchst du denn wirklich die ganzen 20mA für die LEDvon enif - Elektrik & Elektronik
You checked that the baudrate corresponds to the one coded in the firmware?von enif - Sanguino(lolu)
Quotebigfilsing SO all the mods are done . Marlin4Due loaded on the Due board. Anything else i should look for before i plug her in and let the magic smoke out ! ?? Nothing that I can think of right now... So I'll keep my fingers crossed for you!von enif - RAMPS Electronics
Quotebigfilsing [so they have to be cut off right ?? Not the pins, but the trace going from them into the RAMPS circuitry, as shown on the lower right of Andrew's first picture here.von enif - RAMPS Electronics
Looks like a Melzi, so I would try with #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MELZI_1284von enif - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Do you have MOTHERBOARD defined correctly in Configuration.h? Since it looks like you have a Sanguinololu, so it should probably be #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_SANGUINOLOLU_12von enif - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Correct, they are cut off from supplying 5V to the RAMPS. As for your question: QuoteDoes the Due need its own ( normal) power supply or is it fed from USB or Ramps PCB ?? It's the same as for ordinary Mega+RAMPS: the Due will run from the RAMPS 12V (provided diode D1 is installed), from the USB or from the Due's powier jack.von enif - RAMPS Electronics
It's mentioned here ... kind of : Quote ... I also replaces the two cut-off 5V pins in the corner by two long pins which allow me to still access the 5V from the component side. ... These are the two 5V pins that are cut off on the solder side in order to reconnect 3.3V instead. I replaced them with long pins, so that I can put a jumper cable if I need to go back to 5V operation. The jumpervon enif - RAMPS Electronics
As for getting the heatbed to higher temperatures, here is what I did: - use a piece of corkboard as insulation directly underneath the heatbed - cover the heatbed with a piece of thick corrugated cardboard while heating up - increase the output of the 12V PSU to 13.3V WIth that I can get the heatbed in reasonable time (~4min) up to 120 C.von enif - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Julian, are you sure that you are not just stumbling over the fact that Marlin does not show the PWM (as one would expect!) from 0 - 255, but somehow only from 0-127 - i.e. the least significant bit is lost. So if you see "...B@:127" in pronterface, this means you have a full 100% duty cycle.von enif - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Is your Z endstop working correctly? Have you tested it with the M119 command? Are your Z motors connected in parallel or in series? Have you tried with just one single Z-motor connected to the Z-driver? Does it move? If not does it move with the cable from the X or Y motor?von enif - Firmware - mainstream and related support
This looks like you have EXTRUDERS defined to be 0 in your Configuration.h.von enif - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Might there be a problem with your LCD drawing too much current (e,g, for its backlight) from the Mega's 5V regulator?von enif - RAMPS Electronics
We don't need physical package pin numbers in the pins_SANGUINOLOLU_11.h. What we need are the Arduino digital output pins numbers (Dxx) which correspond to the A1/A2/A3 analog pins. Usually they occupy the numbers just above the "normal" digital output pins. According to the wiki these are A1->D30, A2->D29 and A3->D28.von enif - Controllers
Are you sure that 34, 35, 36 really correspond to A3,A2,A1? Somehow that look to me not like the Arduino digital pin numbers, but like the pin numbers of the ATmega1284 DIP package... Not sure, but I would rather have expected pin numbers something like 29,28,27 - but I can't check it right now...von enif - Controllers
Have you verified that your E0_DIR_PIN is indeed set to pin 28? Have you also checked with the Ohm meter that you don't have a short between D28 and GND (on the Mega *or* the Ramps)? If all else fails, you can still try to set the E0 pin definitions to the E1 values in your pin definition file #define E0_STEP_PIN 36 #define E0_DIR_PIN 34 #define E0_ENABLE_PIN 30von enif - RAMPS Electronics
Glad to see that you are making much progress Quoterrowan327 P.S. how do I go from either openscad or STL file to png/jpeg? I couldn't figure out how to display the file in this forum. I have an imgur account but they what a raster file. In OpenScad I use "File / Export / Export as image" to generate a PNG from a Scad-File For STLs, I use "gmsh" to display the STL and then do a screen shot wivon enif - OpenSCAD