Cutting the leads of the MOSFET to be removed definitely makes things easier. To clean the holes from the old solder, I found that using a hollow steel needle of the corresponding size is much easier for me compared to using solder wick and/or my (simple spring loaded) suction pump. Check for "hollow needles desoldering tool" on eBay to see the type of tool that I use.von enif - RAMPS Electronics
When adding a heatsink, don't forget that it will be at 12V when the MOSFET is off. So make sure not to damage anything by accidental shorting...von enif - RAMPS Electronics
Great - I love it!!!von enif - Controllers
Hat dir evtl jemand aus Versehen eines der Z-Motorenkabel ausgezogen und es dann umgekehrt wieder eingesteckt? Beim RAMPS sind die Motorenstecker ja nicht kodiert und können auf 2 Arten eingesteckt werden, was die Motorenlaufrichtung jeweils umkehrt.von enif - Elektrik & Elektronik
The USB cable getting hot might also be due to some ground loop. So make sure that there is no significant voltage difference between the ground of your PS and the ground of the USB. Measure the voltage between the two grounds *before* both are connected via the controller. Is your PS connected to the same AC outlet as your PS?von enif - RAMPS Electronics
Ich würde unbedingt dem Problem mit dem LCD nachgehen. Gut möglich, dass es da einen Zusammenhang gibt, evtl auch ein Problem mit dem Download der Firmware? Kannst du mal ein Foto von den komischen Zeichen im Display posten? Hast du schon mal die im EEPROM gespeicherten Werte mit "M502" und "M500" auf die Firmware-Werte zurückgesetzt? (Kann man auch mit "Restore failsafe"/"Store Memory" im Dispvon enif - Elektrik & Elektronik
Wie sehen denn deine E-Steps/mm und die Feedrate für den Extruder aus (im EEPROM *und* in Config.h)? Könnte es evtl. sein, dass sich dein Extruder so langsam oder wenig bewegt, dass man es gar nicht merkt?von enif - Elektrik & Elektronik
The trimpots on the stepper drivers are also really fragile and can break easily on impact. So check for cracks in the white ceramic base of the trimpots.von enif - Controllers
Nice! Thanks for posting the photos, Mandrav!von enif - Controllers
Die "20A" LED Netzteile scheinen einfach zu schwach - ich hatte damit mal ein ähnliches Problem. Seither verwende ich nur noch 30A 12V 360W LED Netzteile und hatte ich noch nie Probleme damit. Ich setze die Spannung dann auf ca 13.5V, so sind auch 120 Grad fürs Heizbett bei mir kein Problem mehr.von enif - Elektrik & Elektronik
Could your problem be related to a bad contrast setting? A lot of full graphic display adapters have this type of problem - mine had this as well. See regarding this.von enif - Sanguino(lolu)
The SCAD and STL files for the 0.96" and 1.3" versions of the TinyOLED with the side mounted rotary encoder are now on thingiverse.von enif - Controllers
Yes ... and remove "-" lines - but I don't think that there are any in this patch!von enif - Controllers
Quote3dMistery enif, how do I open your files? I don0t have SW that recognize .patch file. It's just a simple text file which contains the differences as lines marked with + and - . Under Unix there is a utility called patch which can be used to apply the patch, but since it's only a few lines, you can just as well do it manually.von enif - Controllers
QuoteChri I never tought that a encoder would be so large compaired to the rest of the LCD And I already cut off 5mm of the encoder shaft, otherwise the knob would be even longer... QuoteChri Although i think a original vertical encoder would be better for longtherm stability as it would have a square soldered footprinted compaired to the modified normal that only has a "line" soldering. Chrivon enif - Controllers
I did some follow up on Chri's idea of positioning the rotary encoder horizontally on the side instead of vertically on the front... The first problem to tackle was the horizontal mounting of the encoder. Even though it's possible to buy encoders which are made for this type of mounting, these are not easy to find and I also already still have a good number of vertical ones... So I decided tovon enif - Controllers
This could well be a contrast issue. Have you tried adjusting the contrast trimpot on the rear? This thread is about full graphic LCD displays having contrast problems, but it might be useful for 2004 LCDs, too:von enif - Sanguino(lolu)
Quote3dMistery Could it be possible to use 3 buttons connected in same way as encoder? Center button is same connection as press function on encoder, so that will work, but what with up/down buttons? Would a press of a button be registered the same as encoder rotation? Can you try that? No, I am sure that won't work that easily. The rotary encoder does not react on individual on-off clicks ofvon enif - Controllers
Quotexoan A better link: Wow - what a selection!von enif - Controllers
Quotexoan There are some THT rotary encoders with horizontal PCB mounting: Thanks for the link! I was looking for this kind of horizontally mounted encoder. However, I am not sure if I really like the built in LEDs... My first try will be to use use a standard vertical encoder and somehow mount it horizontally - that shouldn't be too difficult either.von enif - Controllers
Quote3dMistery enif, do you any idea how to use regular buttons insted encoder? I am going for I2C OLED screen but would like to use buttons like Ultimaker 2. I don't really know exactly what kind of buttons the Ultimaker 2 uses. But indeed I was also first thinking about using 3 simple buttons (up, down, select) for the tinyOLED instead of the rotary encoder. However, when I looked into the svon enif - Controllers
@frankvdh Watch out, your link is not for 13 complete packages, but it's only for one single package that consists of the usual 13 pieces (averaging 2.59$ a piece): packing list: LCD 2004 controller *1pcs Mega2560 R3 *1pcs RAMPS 1.4 Controller *1pcs A4988 Stepper Driver Module *5pcs Heat sinks *5pcsvon enif - Controllers
Good idea, Chri! Indeed this would be much more intutitive. Don't know how to implement this easily, but I'll keep it in mind...von enif - Controllers
I have now made a slightly larger version of the PCB which leaves even with the 1.3" display some gap towards the rotary encoder, which is needed for building a nice frame around the tinyOLED controller: And also I have now created frames for both sizes of the tinyOLED, based on the above PCB version, which I have put on thingiverse:von enif - Controllers
Today arrived the ordered 1.3" OLED. Even though it is bigger, it still fits onto the same PCB as the 0.96" OLED. Here is a photo so that you can compare the sizes of the two versions: Of course, the bigger 1.3" display is somewhat easier on the eyes. As for the current requirements, displaying Marlin's info screen the 1.3" display draws about 12mA, compared to 8mA for the 0.96" display. Ivon enif - Controllers
Just a thought that came reading this thread: Could it be that your ATX PSU is missing a base load on the 5V/3.3V rails? The Wiki mentions such kind of oscillating behaviour under "Minimal Load/Balanced Load"...von enif - RAMPS Electronics
As for the I2C problem on the Arduino Due that caused some conflict when activating simultaneously the I2C OLED (using the U8glib I2C routines) and the I2C EEPROM (using Arduino's Wire.h), I have made some progress: I removed the '//' from the (3 each) commented out statements "//u8g->pin_list = 1;" and "// u8g_i2c_stop();" in file U8glib/utility/u8g_com_arduino_ssd_i2c.c : $diff u8g_com_avon enif - Controllers
Thanks, Andrew! As for adding a header for the Wifi module, the RX0/TX0 signals would require 2 extra wires to the tinyOLED (whereas the I2C signals are already there for the display). Also there is already a 4-pin header with exactly the 4 needed signals (VCC, GND, TX0, RX0) on the inner part of standard RAMPS AUX-1 connector.von enif - Controllers
Since there was still some unused space on the PCB and I am also using the tinyOLED with my "eeprom-less" Arduino Due (using Andrew's RAMPS modifications), I thought why not add to the PCB the option to include an I2C EEPROM. The problem which remains to be solved is how to access the EEPROM from within Marlin. While this is no problem without the display controller configured, using an U8von enif - Controllers
I have now replaced the prototype board of my tinyOLED by an etched PCB, which also allows for an optional piggyback micro-SD module. The whole thing is now smaller than a matchbox: Compared to the initial prototype board version, the design has essentially remained the same, but 4 extra pins have been added to the pin header to allow for the optional micro-SD card module to be mounted directlvon enif - Controllers