I know this is very old, but since I was probably not the only one to stumble over this, here's how it seems to work fine for me in Marlin. You basically just need to add a 20k resistor between each pin and GND (I didn't have a 20k on hand, so I used 22k, but even 10k is likely fine).von Arakon - Firmware - mainstream and related support
For some reason, my bed leveling compensation is acting exactly the opposite way that it should. The front left corner is higher up.. yet the plot shows it as lower. And the automatic compensation reacts the wrong way, making it twice as bad. Anyone know how to fix that? Everything else, including Z homing, printing etc is working fine. Also, the plot shows the center of the bed to be higher,von Arakon - Firmware - Marlin
Well, here's mine. I *think* I managed to fix it by adding a 4.7kohm resistor to both SDA and SCL to VCC.. at least, the issue has not returned since. Edit: Nope.. once the steppers run, it slips again.von Arakon - Controllers
The glass by itself is flat. The heatbed is not and is pulling it out of shape. I checked both with the bed cold and at 60°, same bend in the center. With the clips removed, the bend is even more pronounced. Worst part is, it loses leveling over night. Last night, I printed a case and it was beautiful, perfect skirt and first layer, all layers super smooth. Printed the same case with a small adjuvon Arakon - Mendel90
Quoteenif @ Johetan: When trying to make my Tiny OLED work under Marlin 2.0.5.3 with the BigTreeTech BTT SKR V1.4, I ran into the same problem as you with that shifted display. I also tried all kind of remedies, such as the ones you tried as well, but with no success... Finally I looking at the file Marlin/src/HAL/LPC1768/u8g/u8g_com_HAL_LPC1768_ssd_hw_i2c.cp, I saw that there were some commentvon Arakon - Controllers
That's what I thought too.. maybe because it's still the original glass plate from 6 years ago and only 2mm thick? When I put the ruler across the plate, there's a clear gap in the center.. and printing/leveling also reflects that. Nothing will stick to the center if the corners are leveled properly, but anything printed outside of the center is fine. If I adjust it to be correct around the centevon Arakon - Mendel90
Bei meinem alten Mendel90 macht das Heizbett die Biege.. sprichwörtlich. Mitte hat unter 2mm Glas + 2mm Pertinax 0.3-0.5mm Beule. Ich überlege nun, ein MK3 Heizbett reinzubauen (drin ist noch irgendein MK2 von vor 6 Jahren) und auch gleich auf 3 Punkt zu wechseln, weil das Leveln beim Mendel die absolute Pest ist (4 Punkte, Schraube lösen, Pfosten justieren, Schraube reindrehen.. Pfosten dreht svon Arakon - Druck- und Heizbetten
I may need a new heatbed, as mine is so badly warped in the center, that I can print well in the center OR at the edges, but never the same (using a steel ruler, there's a noticable 0.3-0.5 mm dip in the center.. and that's with a 2mm glass plate and another 2mm build plate on top of that). While replacing the bed, has anyone changed to a 3 point leveling system and could point me to some instrucvon Arakon - Mendel90
I finally finished fixing my old Mendel90. It received an SKR 1.4 Turbo, all new wiring, and most printed hardware was replaced due to cracks/wear. The test cube prints however show some issues I don't recall seeing before. The worst by far is the X.. it's clearly deformed and the left edge is strangely angled. The Z and Y look quite good, but I have some noticable Z-wobble and banding. Belts arevon Arakon - Printing
I'm so damn DONE with this crap. I just replaced the stepper motors on Z with the new ones. Wired in serial. All fresh wires, too. Printed a few tests. Steppers lost some steps and layers shifted, so I adjusted the current etc. Got an okayish print of the Z- cube, some deforming of the X and slight Z-wobble, but the cube is there. After the print, Z lifts a bit and goes "Wheeee". Literally. I hovon Arakon - Mendel90
Moin. Ich hab einen Mendel90, den ich, nachdem die Z-Achse anfing, herumzuspinnen, fast komplett neu aufgebaut habe. Davor druckte er recht gut, allerdings hab ich dann beim Zerlegen auch gesehen, dass die Düse vom originalen J-Head MK5 schon recht ordentlich abgeschliffen und leicht schräg ist. Dummerweise scheint es so gut wie unmöglich zu sein, eine Ersatzdüse (die beim MK5 den kompletten Hevon Arakon - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
That's my thought too.. wiggling didn't change anything, but placing the motor in a different spot caused the knocking to disappear (I just moved it over next to the other motor to check if they run in sync). Unfortunately, my new motors didn't arrive yesterday, but once they do, that will show if it was the motor all along.von Arakon - Mendel90
Fairly hot, but I can keep my finger on it for 2 seconds or so. This was immediately after powering up, though, so it shouldn't have had much time to heat up. Strangely, it happened less the longer it was running, not more.von Arakon - Mendel90
Yes, while stationary, just sitting on the desk. It starts as soon as the motor is turned on the first time (i.e. gets a command first time) and remains that way till powered off. The vibration is fairly low frequency ("rumbling", not "buzzing") and also very faint, you can only feel it by holding the motor between your fingertips.. but the other motor does NOT do it and the vibration is specificvon Arakon - Mendel90
Well.. I've been experimenting with the motors seperately on my desk now, using the old Melzi board to drive them. They both move normally, but one of them is constantly gently vibrating when you put your fingers on it (even when swapping drivers, it's always the same one vibrating).. it's also slightly more noisy than the other when moving. I'm seeing 1.8 ohm between coil pairs on that one, 2.5von Arakon - Mendel90
Axis is level and supported properly on both sides with the nut firmly stuck in the trap.. I reprinted all the parts just to be sure everything is good. But it also happened without the X-axis installed at all. The motors are barely warm in any situation. And I'd expect all motors to develop issues if it was the PSU, but it's always exclusively the Z-axis. The thing is, it always happens now, befvon Arakon - Mendel90
I give up. Got everything set up again today. Not only does it still do it (and now that I have silent drivers, I can hear them vibrate at times even just moving down without visible issues yet), it also started doing it at 3.5 and 3.0 mm/s speed. I'll now try replacing the motors, that's the last thing I can replace.. literally everything but the frame, the rods, the motors and the extruder/hotevon Arakon - Mendel90
Yep, everything exactly as in your firmware github. I also redid the wiring on the motors, just to be sure it's not a bad connection.. no change. Wouldn't make sense either for it to work only at lower speed that way.von Arakon - Mendel90
It still happens if I ONLY control the Z motor, with Y and X and everything else off. I set the Max Z Speed to 3.5 in firmware now and it works with that speed. 4.0, it doesn't. Also, it still does it on the new board, which is running Marlin 2.0.5.4 bugfix release, instead of the stock original firmware.von Arakon - Mendel90
Seeing 12.12 when bed is off, 11.6 when bed is currently heating.von Arakon - Mendel90
At F240, they buzz and hum like crazy. Edit: Increased current to 1200mA, no change.von Arakon - Mendel90
But why would this occur now, 6 years after buying the printer, with the exact same speeds I always used? Speed is limited to 4mm/s on Z too via firmware, I triple checked. And if I connect a different, single motor to the Z-axis stepper, that one spins perfectly smooth, too. The current on the new board is set to 800mA on Z, should that be higher? On the old Melzi I had increased the Z pot a bitvon Arakon - Mendel90
Just ran a motor test with the new board. It's NOT the driver, board, or anything. When the motors are free to spin (i.e. X-axis not installed at all), the left motor is vibrating loudly and spinning very slow, while the right motor is spinning fast and smooth. Edit: Actually, the motors switch at times.. just now, right was vibrating and moving slow, while left was spinning fine.von Arakon - Mendel90
Nope, even the old gcodes that printed successfully cause it now. No eeprom either.. it's using the original firmware supplied way back then. M503 just responds with "OK". That said, I started a complete rebuild. I bought a cheap Ender 3 to print parts for the Mendel (which works surprisingly well, PETG prints were instantly successful), got a BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo 32bit board, and took it all apavon Arakon - Mendel90
That's actually a remnant of an outdated start gcode, the bed is pre-heated and the z-move to the bed starts only after that is done. I have removed that gcode part since with no change. Here's the beginning of a current gcode: ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.1.0 M140 S60 M105 M190 S60 M82 ;absolute extrusion mode G28 ; home G1 X0 Y98 F9000 ; Go to the middle of the front G1Z0.5 ; close tovon Arakon - Mendel90
This is happening immediately after the printer starts moving down to the bed to start the nozzle heating process. What happens is getting worse now, too.. it will repeatedly start and stop moving, somethings go "brrrrrrrt", and randomly one motor will suddenly spin at high speed, but not the other, then the other spins and the first doesn't. Motors are actually cool to the touch, same with the svon Arakon - Mendel90
12V rail is fluctuating slightly when heating, but that's normal, I believe. It makes no difference whether the heatbed and nozzle are heating or not, the behavior remains the same, so I'm thinking that's not it either. I also tried pressing and pushing the stepper driver and components surrounding it while moving up/down manually, made no difference, still moving smoothly when running manually avon Arakon - Mendel90
Additional things tested: - Lifting the entire Y-axis off the brass nuts while this happened to check if the motors are only struggling under load: No change. - Printing from SD-Card to make sure it's not Octoprint/the raspberry causing the issue: Print started, then went nuts again upon returning to top. It seems that if I leave the printer powered down for several hours, I can print once.. bvon Arakon - Mendel90
I made no change to software or firmware whatsoever, and previous g-codes that were printing fine are showing the exact same issue. The lead screws are well greased and run completely smooth when manually homing or moving the z-axis up and down. I already ordered new bearings and brass nuts, though, just to be completely sure. I actually rechecked the wiring last night, redid the wire ends/screvon Arakon - Mendel90
Hast eine Nachricht.von Arakon - Schwarzes Brett