Schade, aber ok. Dann weiß ich bescheid, danke =)von Ano - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
Sry, wenn ich jetzt hier einfach mal reinplatze, aber wollte nicht extra einen Thread aufmachen: Habe mein MK8 heute erhalten. Irgendwie kommt mir das aber komisch vor, weil keine runde Kerbe drin ist, sonder eine leicht eckige: Sollte ich es trotzdem mal einbauen und versuchen, oder ist schon abzusehen, dass es Probleme geben wird?von Ano - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
I would mount the motor on the back. I have it on the front and I am currently to lazy to change that ^^ But for wiring reasons, at the back should be better. And changing the software is not a really big deal. Just got another print running. It's a spool holder. For adhesion reasons I used "L'Oréal Paris Elnett" hairspray, which one of the users suggested here I think. This thing is sick! Workvon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
I ordered some of these: and 1m of ptfe tube that just arrived. I would like to upgrade my printer to bowden setup. I will try to design a j-head-holder in this style: (Source: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:547706). The holder will have an adapter to get the push-fit connector in place. (I made a mistake in fact, didn't think of the possibility to directly screw the connector to the j-headvon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Vielen Dank für deine Hilfe, hab jetzt mal bestellt und werde das einfach mal ausprobieren! /edit: Für noch Suchende: Zeug von ebay ist angekommen, passt alles, wies soll. Geliefert wurden btw. 1,07m Schlauch, bei bestellten 1m.von Ano - Allgemeines
So hab ich nicht gedacht, aber stimmt natürlich, metrisch ist mir auch lieber. Hast du dann Größe 4mm und Gewinde M6 und zusätzlich den Schlauch dann 4mm Außendurchmesser? (für 1,75mm Filament)von Ano - Allgemeines
Ich habe mir vor kurzem einen Prusa i3 Rework von Replikeo gegönnt. Mittlerweile druckt er ganz annehmbar und ich würde gerne auf ein Bowden-Setup umrüsten. Dafür bräuchte ich erstmal den Teflon Schlauch und 2 Push-Fit Anschlüsse. Weiß jemand, wo man sowas herbekommmt? Alle Händler die ich finde sind recht teuer oder aber z.B. bei Aliexpress ohne Paypal. http://de.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printer-von Ano - Allgemeines
The fan duct from the original E3D V6 Hotend. Or do you mean the other one in front of the fan? This would be this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:547325 But as there is none on the original E3D design, I don't think you need it.von Ano - General Mendel Topics
What I really like about that setup is the simplicity. In comparison with a wade geared extruder it's just sooo smallvon Ano - General Mendel Topics
Seems like you are loosing steps. You could try to fasten the x-carriage belt. Perhaps your motors are just on the edge of power. You could try to give them some more (using the potentiometer on the driver boards (see wiki)). I'm making some progress, too ^^ @Blue Ice: Thanks for the hint, a 0.12mm starting layer seems to raise the adhesion on the printbed. Even strong enough to not being ablevon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
I am not having any experiance with pla, but you could try to print a very thin first layer. It helps me with getting ABS to stick on the bed. Set the first layer height to 0,12mm in slic3er. For the speed: You could adjust the speed in slic3r, if you want to print faster. But to start with, speed should not be a real issue. Get it printing good enough and then you can think about that =) Whatvon Ano - General Mendel Topics
I will try the same thing in near future and am planning on: - This carraige: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:547706 - And this extruder: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:275593 In the first thing, you can also see a video of the whole change.von Ano - General Mendel Topics
Great to hear good news =) You mean warping? Are you printing with ABS and if so, do you use a heat bed? There are lots of people having problems with that. The first layers cool down while the printer is printing on the next ones. While cooling down, they retract, which leads to warping and loosing grip. I currently am fighting the same issue. Most used solutions seem to be: - Printing on bluevon Ano - Printing
Yeah, I thought I could turn it on. But I think there were just wiring problems (aka changed plus and minus) which I solved at the same time.von Ano - Reprappers
QuoteMindRealm Check the settings in dogm_lcd_implementation.h... #define USE_BIG_EDIT_FONT // save 3120 bytes of PROGMEM by commenting out this line #define FONT_STATUSMENU u8g_font_6x9 #define FONT_MENU u8g_font_6x10_marlin // DOGM parameters (size in pixels) #define DOG_CHAR_WIDTH 6 #define DOG_CHAR_HEIGHT 12 #ifdef USE_BIG_EDIT_FONT #define FONT_MENU_EDIT u8von Ano - Developers
@Jonny Five: Oh, thanks for that information. I didn't see the advanced settings in slic3r. In fact, the brim would not be an issue for me, but my get a few layers too wide. If it was only the first one, it would not matter, as you can get rid of it pretty easily, but as it is more than one (mostly 4-5 with an exponential decrease in being too wide), it just makes my objects round and not havingvon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Yap, exactly the same. I didn't consider this as a problem, because I still can read what is meant, but I thought this is the case for everyone. So, if there is a fix, I would gladly apply it. Although I would not really invest time in finding it on my own, because my other printer related problems are much more pressing ^^von Ano - Developers
I have the same issue, also using 128x64. My setup: RAMPS1.4 with Arduino and Marlin Software + U8glibvon Ano - Developers
I'm sorry, but I have no solution for the last problem, as I own a aluminium-singleframe kit. I think it should be sufficient to tight them just enough to hold it. You don't need to apply enough force to break the acrylic. Perhaps a bit of tape around those holes could help, as it should perhaps prevent breaking, at least a bit.von Ano - General Mendel Topics
Ok, so I think you should aim for calibration of your motors then first. - Command (by software) to raise the Z-axis by 100mm and measure how much it really moves. As you said above, it only moves 74.95mm, so adjust your "steps_per_unit" to: "current_value*(100/74,95)" Don't write the formula, just write in the value ^^ - Do the same thing for x- and y-axis - Then do the same for the extruder. Uvon Ano - General Mendel Topics
Quoteslim2k[...] I am unsure what M* my Z rods are, how can I check. I'll look into the config this evening. To meassure the rods, just measure the diameter. A caliper would be best, but any other tool also works. Should be 5mm (there aren't any 4,75mm , so if it's about 5, it's right).von Ano - General Mendel Topics
Could you measure the fiaments diameter? Perhaps the diameter changed. Sometimes (even on the same roll!) the diameter changes. Anyhow: Glad you got it fixed!von Ano - Printing
@Bratan: Well, 0.90$ at Amazon.de, nice. But I am living in germany, makes ! 20€ ! for here. I will try another glue stick, though ^^ seems less chemical and aggressive to me than acetone. @Blue Ice: Thanks for the hint for slic3r. I didn't think of that^^ I copied the thermistor values from a website and tried to check them with another external thermometer. They seemed to be about right (+-3von Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Oh, yeah, I don't know why I didn't think about uploading it myself XD See attached my configuration.h As I said, in the meantime I changed my extrusion rate, so this should definitely help. I am currently printing on the fiberglass plate from replikeo. It works quite well, at least for little prints. It is not flat, but for larger prints, the first layers (multiple!) are printing pretty good anvon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBlue Ice[...] I think I can help you out with these issues. Are you using Slic3r and Marlin? That would be great =) Yap newest marlin version and slic3er aswell. Oh, and I didn't say: My layers were 0,2mm, my hotend 245°C and my heatbed 100°C first layers, then 95°C And I just tried a print with heatbed temp 105°C for the whole print, still warping. /edit: Hm. There are some that say a wavon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
As I read in the forums, there are some having big problems, which can mostly be solved with proper configuration and calibration. It's just not easy to know, what to look for. I would say, that your feedrate isn't correct. I'm not sure if it's too low or too high, but I would think too high. Could you post your "configuuration.h"? Just to compare, my steps are: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_Uvon Ano - General Mendel Topics
Something with power already exists. They use Lasers to melt the powder (or grain) on one spot. A laser is a great way, because switched off, it is instantely "cold". When you try to melt plastic with a hot surface, you need to wait until it's cold to make the next layer. A pretty strong light source could be used...von Ano - General
It should be possible to change it under filament settings in slic3r. Or perhaps change the line #530 in marlin. #define ABS_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 240von Ano - Printing
Ah, yeah, ok^^ Well change a bit of the idea to: Use a really hot LCD-like device and melt the plastic with it, instead of exposing resin. You won't be able to use filament, though.von Ano - General
Wouldn't be a resin printer be better? Put an LCD-like device unter the tank and light up the form of one layer, then pull it up and the next layer follows. Could do the whole layer in one stepvon Ano - General