Did you try to heat the nozzle up a bit more for the first layers? And when are your fans switching off btw, at which hotend-temp?von Ano - Printing
Just to clarify: You have a fan on the hotend cooling the ribs? And after a print job you let this fan running until you hotend reaches low temperatures? If you switch of the fan, before the hotend cooled, it could still heat up the ribs enough, to melt the abs in the normally cooled zone, which would lead to a big blob, that will not be heated the next time, because your fan will be switchedvon Ano - Printing
Heay, yeah, everything here, multimeter, soldering iron, oszilloskop, tool kit. I got my first print running, went pretty good so far. But the fan was on all the time. What I would like is, the fan to be active while the preheating begins until after the print, when the hotend is cooled down to about 45°C. So that it stops then to not always be that loud. Did my second print and in fact: it's novon Ano - Reprappers
Did you change your thermistor value in Marlin configuration.h? There is this code: //=========================================================================== //=============================Thermal Settings ============================ //=========================================================================== // //--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, usvon Ano - Reprappers
Btw. I used some of your buildlog infos and fotos from your blog to build up my printer, as some infos on the wiki where inaccurate, so thanks for that Wanted to post a comment there, but I don't want to use google+ My second print, a 20x20x20mm cube (0,4 infill) Three little questions: My printbed stays at high temperature, even after the print job is finished. It stayed hot for several minvon Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Yeah, capacitive sensor for auto-leveling was one of my top-things-to-do, too. I just finished my first print and I'm really impressed. Went much better than I thought. Well, after some troubleshooting (filament not getting into the hotend, because the metal thingy at the top of the hotend-plastic was turned in too much and was blocking the filament). See attached!von Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Are the configs right? Look at this lines: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,473} // Ano default steps per unit for Ultimaker {78.7402,78.7402,200.0*8/3,760*1.1} #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 1, 25} // Ano (mm/sec) {500, 500, 5, 25} // Statt 5 2 oder 1 I had the same problem, but after editing the config it worked.von Ano - RAMPS Electronics
Hi @ all, i got a little problem with my fan on the RAMPS 1.4 connected to D9. With pronterface sending M106 S250 and M107 (on and off) it doesn't do anything. I managed to turn it on once, don't ask how, no idea. Now it's always on. I have checked to have the board N°33. #ifndef MOTHERBOARD #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB #endif Am I missing some config or something? /Edit: Do youvon Ano - Reprappers
Ok, I just found out, that my problem was NOT the power, but the steps settings. See: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?151,460534von Ano - Reprappers
Quotesap_joakim You need to increase the power to the motors. As i understand you run with only one Stepper Drive to both your Z-motors On the stepper you have a smal screw. Turn this clockwise to increase the power to the Motors. Just turn it so that you cant turn the rods with your hand. The more power you give it the hotter it will get. So make sure to have cooling on your board if you need tvon Ano - Reprappers
Hi guys, I'm entering the i3-Rework club, too =) Am currently building my printer, everything is set up but the heatbed. Some questions came up: - How did you mount your heatbeds? I only have 4 M3x25 Screws, some nuts and 4 pretty strong springs and I'm wondering what would be the best setup. - I seem to be unable to get a flat heatbed. The pcb is just bending and the GFK-sheet is following it.von Ano - Prusa i3 and variants
Did you try to push the filament through the hotend by hand? Does it work? What filament size and nozzle size do you use? Is it a direct or geared extruder? Possible Problems could be for example: - Hotend not hot enough - Hotend-Cooling area not cool enough leading to jammingvon Ano - Printing
Ok. Just let us know, if you found the error =)von Ano - Printing
If you have a solder iron, you can exchange the mosfet that drives the heat bed for another one. Apparently the used ones are cheap components, which aren't as good (means low Rds-on) as they could be. You could replace it with a better one. It should then become significantly less hot. The IRLB8743PbF could be a good alternative. Has about 1/4 of the Rds-on of the STB55NF06L (which should be thevon Ano - Reprappers
I was just answering Steve, because I have no idea, what it could be. Perhaps your bolt is causing some effect that add up with others or something. If you didn't look up this wiki-page, perhaphs you can finde a cause (or multiple ones) for your problem: http://www.reprap.org/, but other than that, I'm sorry to say, but I don't know. You are not using a bowden setup, are you? And your filament ivon Ano - Printing
It's possible by "anti-wobble" mechanics, for example this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:141479 or that one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33053von Ano - Printing
Four thinks I can think of: - Is there anything blocking your extruder? Like a cable that is being held back when at a certain height of the build or something like that? - Another point: Perhaps your motors are having power problems. Try to adjust the power supplies of your motors on the driverboard. There should be a potentiometer next to the mosfets. wiki quote: "The trimpot on the stepper drvon Ano - Printing
The driver is the mosfet that switches on and off the head bed. It is located on the RAMPS board. What do you mean by "connection on the Ramps is screaming hot"? Do you mean the cables between the RAMPS board and the heatbed? If so, than change the cables for larger ones, as they apparently have too high resistance, which leads to the power being dissipated in the cables instead of the heatbed.von Ano - Reprappers
To begin with: The not working led is no problem. You could try to desolder it and resolder it in the other direction, but nevertheless, it has nothing to do with it. Does your Heat-bed driver become really hot? I mean, the one on the RAMPS that is driving your heatbed.von Ano - Reprappers
Look at this test: http://airtripper.com/von Ano - Reprappers
Meint ihr, das ganze funktioniert auch mit der kleineren Variante? Die hat nur 12mm Durchmesser und wiegt fast halbsoviel wie die 18mm Durchmesser-Version (45g zu 85g). Dafür ist die Reichweite auch nur ca. 1mm bis 4mm. Das dürfte doch ansich nicht stören, oder? Eben etwas weiter unten montieren. Mein Drucker-Kit ist grad unterwegs und ich würde gerne auf Bowden upgraden und so leicht wie möglicvon Ano - Projekte
Ich nehme mal an, dass du den Lüfter der standardmäßig beim E3D v6 dabei ist, auch am laufen hast. Ist der weit genug unten montiert? Also wird auch die unterste Kühlrippe angeblasen? Hast du versucht mal weiter mit der Temperatur runterzugehen? Eventuell heizt sich das PLA zu weit nach oben auf. Achso, den Bowden-Schlauch hast du auch bis ganz runter geschoben, oder? Also soweit wie möglich invon Ano - Allgemeines
Quotemrn26[...]The extruded heater and heat bed, I was thinking I could create some separate setup for that, since the just have to heat up and sit off at the correct temp. Or is that something that should be computer controlled? [...] I read, that sometimes it is pretty good to have the possibility to adjust both temperatures after the first 2-3 layers. So, yes, it would be advisable to have thivon Ano - Reprappers
Unten steht: Eeisen 3mm, Plexiglas und Aluminium sind 6mm. Ich selbst habe das Kit mit 6mm Alu bestellt, ist heute versendet worden, also noch kein Erfahrungsbericht möglich.von Ano - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
Das ist natürlich auch ne Idee gegen Wobbeln. Ich hatte auch dashier gesehen: https://www.youtube.com/ Das Teil hierzu gibt's hier: http://www.thingiverse.com Oder eine andere Variante: http://www.thingiverse.com Entkoppelt die Z-Richtung komplett von der verbogenen Gewindestange. Hat zwar den Nachteil, dass keine Kraft mehr nach unten ausgeübt werden kann, also der Extruder nur noch durch Eigevon Ano - Mechanik
Hm. I don't know anything about wiring yet, cause my printer kit is still on the way =) I ordered the Prusa i3 Rework Kit from Replikeo: http://www.replikeo.com/ (pretty cheap, not the cheapest because about 100 Dollars shipping fee + VAT, but the support seems to be really fast at responding to emails, tried it about 4 times and every time they answered in about 30mins) Seems like a good setup,von Ano - Reprappers
Da ich meinen i3 Rework auch bald bekomme und schonmal ein neuen Extruder eingeplant habe (falls der mitgelieferte nicht so läuft wie ich möchte), würde mich interessieren, ob du schon weitere Schritte unternommen hast mit gegebenenfalls Ergebnissen =) Was ich dazu sagen kann: Ich habe dashier gefunden und fand das sehr interessant: www.youtube.com Sieht sehr klein und leicht aus und die Ergebnvon Ano - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
Hat schon jemand sowas ausprobiert? http://www.aliexpress.com/ Der Bowden-Anschluss ist als zusätliches Teil realisiert, aber sollte doch eigentlich trotzdem funktionieren, oder? (Ich würde eigentlich gerne auf das Original zurückgreifen, aber mein Budget ist recht knapp )von Ano - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
Hi folks, I'm getting my printer kit in some weeks and am really excited about it =) To dive into the whole printing thing, I read on the wiki, the forum and looked up some things on thingiverse. That's when I saw something I would like to ask: Apparently the whole bed and x-axis leveling is causing some headaches, so I wanted to read about some auto-leveling strategies others came up with. Thevon Ano - Reprappers