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Printing issues ...
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You're not alone with this problem, it seems to come up every couple of weeks.
Your solution may or may not lie in one of these threads:
by
tsb4k
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General
I've had this same issue as long as I've been printing ABS (on a cupcake and prusa).
The possible fixes we come up with always seem contradictory (print hotter/print cooler, thinner layers/thicker layers).
From just watching the printer it looks to me like you want to minimize the fraction of the thread width that is overhanging. This sounds like it means thinner layers (eg if you had 50% width
by
tsb4k
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Printing
I think one thing going against RepRap mindshare in the public is the name. It makes sense to us but when you explain what "RepRap" stands for (if you can remember off the top of your head!) peoples eyes glaze over. Then you say "it's a 3d printer" and they go "oh, why didn't you just say so?"
Say what you will about what they have become but MakerBot has a good name.
by
tsb4k
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General
I had issues like that for a long time and replaced half my machine (prusa mendel) in the process.
What seems to finally be helping is replacing the lm8uu bearings with bushings on the x and y axes. I'm not saying this is necessarily the issue with your Huxley, but keep it in mind if all else fails.
OH - and tune the PID control for your heated bed if you have one. The auto-tune in the latest ma
by
tsb4k
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Printing
In this thread it looks like the culprit might be the heated bed.
I use one and have the same artifact on my prints. Some day when I'm not so lazy I plan to turn it off and do the same test.
by
tsb4k
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General
ekaggrat Wrote:
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> i am using 4 mm threaded rods for the z axis and
> nut isolators .... also i am using linear bearings
> on the z axis.... but i am still getting
> banding.... any ideas what is the issue
>
>
I have similar results and have tried a lot of things (aligning belts and rods, leadscrews instead of threaded r
by
tsb4k
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Reprappers
SkyHighBiz Wrote:
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> Hey Cameron, I saw that site and was intrigued, I
> just couldn't find too much info on them. Are
> they good printers?
>
> Edit: This is what I'm going to want to print.
>
>
> like I said it's about 12"x12"x3/8". Do you
> think that 3D future printer would be able to
> print that?
Th
by
tsb4k
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General
Sorry for hijacking your thread again Cordawg!
Not having any luck so far. Getting kind of discouraged since I've rebuilt or replaced almost everything.
-Keeping the z steppers enabled had little to no effect
-Made sure the x & y belts are tensioned and not rubbing against any guides
-Lowered acceleration in the firmware
Not much left to try except fine tuning the extruder.
The effect I'm
by
tsb4k
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General
Sublime Wrote:
> Or having the z motors disabled when not in use
> which can cause lost steps.
I just checked this to reassure myself that I wasn't silly enough to overlook it, and guess what..
Will re-compile and try again!
by
tsb4k
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General
I've been fighting this (and stalking every related forum post) for months now.
I've tried (with varying degrees of success):
-nophead's printed couplers with vinyl tubing
-spiral cut aluminum couplers
-1/4" acme leadscrews
-lubricating the threaded rod/leadscrews
-adjusting pololu driver current
-using a decoupled nut holder ( )
-leaving the z-steppers unbolted, strapping them down with zip t
by
tsb4k
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General
tsb4k Wrote:
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> nophead Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Do the layers bulge all the way round are are
> they
> > simply displaced laterally? The former implies a
> Z
> > / flow rate problem, whereas the latter is an X
> /Y
> > problem.
> >
> > One t
by
tsb4k
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General
nophead Wrote:
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> Do the layers bulge all the way round are are they
> simply displaced laterally? The former implies a Z
> / flow rate problem, whereas the latter is an X /Y
> problem.
>
> One thing to check is that the hot end is solidly
> attached. If it can wobble very slightly where it
> is joined to the extruder
by
tsb4k
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General
If I can jump on this thread with a possibly related issue with my Prusa-
I'm reasonably happy with the quality of my prints, except I have some minor banding. I don't think it is threaded rod wobble, I've installed these to further decouple the carriage and the results are indistinguishable.
It seems to be more pronounced on layers with more detail, e.g. a simple cube appears almost flawless
by
tsb4k
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General
My 2 cents:
1. You may have your software endstops set wrong, making it think your print area is smaller than it is.
2. Possibly in combination with #1, if you didn't copy your steps/mm over from sprinter it might think it has moved 16cm when it has moved 1cm
by
tsb4k
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
It's hard to get a list because almost every one who builds one is building their own combination.
You have to make a few decisions that will determine what parts you need to buy or print
-what kind of bushing or bearings you want your axes to slide on (printed pla bushing, plastic/bronze bushings, linear bearings)
-what kind of belts you want to use (standard t5, something finer pitch, etc)
-a
by
tsb4k
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Reprappers
Pretty much any electronics will work with any machine. You'll need 5 steppers and a new heated bed (optional).
Personally I wouldn't recommend cannibalizing your TOM to build a Prusa.
Not because I'm fond of the TOM (which is a fine machine), but because you will inevitably find yourself at a point with 2 half assembled machines and need to print a part in order to continue!
Build your Prusa (
by
tsb4k
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Reprappers
I've had good luck with them wired in series.
I made a little stripboard "breakout" with headers on it that allow me to wire the motors in series by just plugging them in.
If I ever want to change over, I just have to replace it with an even simpler stripboard with both headers in parallel.
by
tsb4k
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General
There are quite a few "mainstream" firmwares now, and the line between them and the "experimental" is not so obvious.
Maybe there should be just one forum? Or forums for each "family" of firmware?
by
tsb4k
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Administration, Announcements, Policy
I'm very interested in this too. I've had this problem to varying degrees on my cupcake for the past year. Tried printing cooler, hotter, thinner layers, thicker layers, changing loop/perimeter/fill order..
Hopefully when I get my prusa running I will be able to tell whether it is specific to the way I've configured my machine or to the way I choose slicing settings in general.
by
tsb4k
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Printing
For reference in case anyone searches this thread, I replaced the wade's with a makergear stepper extruder and the sparse layer problem has gone away. I still have poor layer alignment but at least I know that is mechanical. This whole thing has been unrelated to slic3r, except that it allowed me to get prints done much quicker for troubleshooting.
by
tsb4k
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Slic3r
While printing with the extruder and bed at operating temperature, the 12V line was always at least 12.1V.
If I extrude from pronterface it seems like I can see slight variations in the rotation speed of the extruder gears. Getting the idler tension and stepper driver current balanced has been a real problem for me.
Maybe I will try to swap over the geared stepper from my cupcake to see if this
by
tsb4k
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Slic3r
Gulf Wrote:
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> What heat are you running?
> It looks like a heated bed, if so does you're
> power supply/s have enough power?
I believe so, I haven't seen any abnormal behaviour or shutdowns.
I will measure the 12V line during a print to see if it is sagging at all.
by
tsb4k
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Slic3r
tinyenormous Wrote:
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> Do you have z lift turned on? That is the only
> real way you could end up getting backlash in the
> z direction. Otherwise you are constantly moving
> in the same direction, so backlash would not rear
> it's ugly head.
I don't have lift enabled. I tried it once but had basically the same output.
Right
by
tsb4k
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Slic3r
Slowing it down hasn't really helped.
I'm not being very systematic about this but my next hunch is the z-axis. Since the effect seems to go all the way around the affected layer (not just the beginning which I would expect if the filament was just lagging) I wonder if I have inconsistent layer height.
Now that I think about it, I didn't install the springs in the x-ends on the threaded rods..
by
tsb4k
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Slic3r
I had bridge speed at the same as solid infill.
Right now I have perimeters at 30mm/s and infill at 60mm/s. I'll try turning all the speeds down.
by
tsb4k
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Slic3r
Hardwarekiller Wrote:
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> More Heat !
>
>
>
>
> Michael
I tried bumping the temperature quite a bit and I'm still getting the same effect.
I should probably have posted this in the printing forum, I don't think it's a slic3r issue so much now.
I noticed that when it starts doing bridges the extruder can't keep up at fir
by
tsb4k
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Slic3r
Just finished getting my prusa up and running and trying to get some prints dialed in (using slic3r). I'm using 3mm filament (ABS) with a 0.35mm nozzle.
It looks like for thicker layer heights, the perimeters are not adhering to the previous layer correctly. By bringing the layer down to 0.2mm (keeping everything else the same) I've managed to get what I'd consider a good print. (see attached im
by
tsb4k
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Slic3r