Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
Page 1 of 1 Pages: 1
Results 1 — 11 of 11
This winter I'd just built my Prusa Mendel and done some initial printing (with much fine-tuning left to go) when the launch of a new business took time away from the project. I've gotten back to RepRapping, and just installed a heated bed - I can't believe how much more convenient printing on glass is than blue painter's tape.
I'm printing Ultimaker 3mm PLA through a .35mm nozzle with .1mm prin
by
billmi
-
Printing
Easiest way I could think of to do that would be editing the G-Code semi-manually (with find/replace) to add the code to home the X axis just after each upward move of the Z axis. Look through the G-Code, after the initial set-up moves, lines that start with G1 Z (with a number following the Z - that number is how high the head should be to print the new layer) are moving the Z axis to rise up
by
billmi
-
General
I use a feeler gauge to level the bed to my base layer height. I find that moving the head as close as possible to the adjuster screw, rather than out to the corner of the bed minimizes the back-and forth of adjusting (less lever effect from the interaction of the other three adjuster screws).
by
billmi
-
General
Thanks Victor,
I kept tweaking with it - the problem wasn't the lack of layers in the model, but rather that SHM-STL mis-scales the output, and my stl was smaller than my layer height, so Slic3r didn't detect a large enough model to make a layer.
Sorted.
My toolchain is Lightwave > Slic3r > Pronterface > Sprinter, though I expect to be changing to Marlin soon, I've had to run slow to
by
billmi
-
General
VDX,
I'd be most grateful for any workflow tips you could provide on getting from Lightwave model to GCode.
I've been using LW since v 0.9, and these days use LW 9.6 primarily for video and illustration work, with models that I've either built in LW, or brought in from client's SolidWorks files as STL. So far for printing on my Prusa, I've built Gcode from STL files downloaded from Thingiverse
by
billmi
-
General
Wow, thanks for the excellent replies.
All my attention got whisked away from printing to help launch a new company. I'm trying to get some time back on to tweaking on the printing.
I increased retraction, with no great improvement, but will play some more with that.
I figured with .35mm if I end up not being happy, It'll be easy to dill it out to .5mm, or pick up another J-Head.
Thanks again
by
billmi
-
Printing
I built an SAE linear bearing Prusa with Wade's geared extruder for 3mm filament and Mk IV .35mm hot end, driven by a RAMPS board.
Surprisingly, I didn't really have any hardware issues, it's all come down to getting things dialed in to make a good print. I'm using Sprinter firmware, Pronterface to feed G-Code to the printer and manually control it, and slic3r to generate G-code.
The issue I'm
by
billmi
-
Printing
Using the "Just do it!" mentality - I connected the thermistor, and found it's reliably tracking both room temperature and my body temperature, so it looks like Sprinter was configured as I'll need it. :-)
by
billmi
-
Controllers
I'm total newbie. I've just built a Prusa. I'm using a RAMPS 1.4 with Sprinter pre-loaded into it, and using Pronterface I've got correct motion with working endstops on all three axes and my Wade's geared extruder drives a piece of PLA hard enough to rip it out of hand. I've set my endstop positions and leveled my bed to my hot end at each of the four corners of X and Y movement.
Bed size setti
by
billmi
-
Controllers
I think we are talking about different parts.
Techzone's kit replaces the PTFE cylinder in an original extruder with a block of oak. I can definitely see how if there is not a seal between their PTFE sleeve and nozzle, that plastic would be injected into pores in oak (though there are plenty of readily available hardwoods that are not porous).
The post that started this thread though, is talki
by
billmi
-
Mechanics
It seems to me a hardwood like cherry or oak would do well - cheap and easily available in block or rod, low thermal conduction and good heat tolerance.
by
billmi
-
Mechanics