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Printing issues ...
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Quoteredreprap
what kind of milling motor did you get?
I have a proxxon micromot, which i allready had lying around. I will try it with that, if it doesn't work I will get something better.
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tmahring
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CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Hey guys, has been a while since I last posted, but here is a little progress update:
full res:
Things are coming along, though I run into some problems. The biggest one I have is that my X carriage seems a bit weak, I may have to redesign that completely, which will also result in other design changes.
I am quite confident that I can get this baby running though.
@TheRevva:
I'm going to try t
by
tmahring
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CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Quote0.3mm layer height with a layer width of 0.45 (set manually)
Have you tried adjusting your bridge flow rate ? As you set your width manually you might need to adjust that too. A line width of 0.45 seems a bit small for 0.3 layers anyway, that only gives you a WOH of 1.5 which will most likely cause problems with stability of your prints.
by
tmahring
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Reprappers
Hi
I'm having the exact same problem with marlin and slic3r.
My guess is that the G28 command is implemented incorrectly in the marlin firmware - it should be buffered with the other commands and executed in order, but for some reason it gets executed immediately.
My fix to it is quite simple, I replaced the G28 command in slic3rs profile with these 2 commands:
G92 Z0 ; set Z to zero
G1 X0 Y200
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tmahring
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Printing
200 seems a bit low to me, I'm printing ABS at 230 and it sticks pretty well (using kapton tape on 110°C heatpad with no glue)
by
tmahring
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Printing
Hi
I recently switched from skeinforge to slic3r. I'm pretty happy with the results, but I have one problem:
Slic3r seems to skip the last bit of infill on the top layer. Here is an example (20mm test cube):
Has anyone an idea on how to fix this ?
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tmahring
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Reprappers
mrfunk Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I'm running Retraction at -3mm would increasing
> the retraction help?(or does Slicer compensate and
> add say this 3mm back?)
The retraction setting should be a positive number, at least in my version of slic3r. Not sure how it handles a negative one, worst case it pushes out that amount of filament every time in
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tmahring
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Printing
What kind of surface are you printing on ? ABS only sticks to kapton tape well in my experience. You don't need to get the tape on perfectly smooth, a few overlaps and bubbles will only result in a few dents in your bottom layer which doesn't matter.
I would also recommend you to get a piece of glass that fits on your heatpad. Then you can apply the tape to the glass first and put it on your heat
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tmahring
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Printing
Found the problem: My hobbed bolt in the extruder had filled up with plastic dust and couldn't get a good grip on the filament any more.
I think I had my retraction speed to high, so every time it retracted it grinded off a little bit of the filament, but thats just a guess.
by
tmahring
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Printing
I'm going to use ABS for most of the parts, though I may print some of the big flat parts in PLA if I have too much problems with warping.
I think the frame should handle the vibrations quite well, if it doesn't I can always drill some extra hole through and screw the aluminium profiles directly together.
The 10mm rods seem quite stong, I don't think they will bend too much at this lenght. If tha
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tmahring
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CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Hi guys
I'm working on a PCB mill that is designed like a reprap printer. All parts can eighter be printed or are easily avaliable. No special tools or machinery (besides a 3d printer of course) is required to build it.
Here are some pictures of my design:
All axes are guided by 10mm smooth steel rods and moved by 12mm trapezoidal spindles unsing nema17 steppers.
It will use a proxxon FBS 240
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tmahring
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CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Hi
I have a problem with my prints:
full resolution:
As you can see in the image, my top layers are not completely filled, the lines just don't stick together.
However, this only happens in the middle of the piece, where the nozzle is moving at full speed. Everywhere, where the nozzle has to slow down too much material is extruded.
This also happens on the sides. As you can see the edges stick
by
tmahring
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Printing
It extrudes .4mm into mid air.
I now changed the layer size back to .2mm H .44mm W. With .35mm layers I had massive problems with bridged. Seems i need to change my hotend to the .5mm nozzle to be able to print reliably at .35mm layer thicknes
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tmahring
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Printing
Hi
I have a more or less theoretical question: Are there any DISadvantages when using a small nozzle ?
To be more precise:
I currently have a .35mm nozzle on my makergear hotend. As far as I know, the recommended print settings for such a nozzle would be something like .2mm layer height and .45mm extrusion width. On my printer I increased this to .35mm height and .77mm width, to speed up my prin
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tmahring
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Printing
Hi
I googled around and searched the wiki but couldn't find an answer to my question:
How much material (by weight) does it take to print all the necessary plastic parts it takes to build a Prusa Mendel ?
I'm going to build one and maybe I can print the parts for it on somebody elses printer, so it would be nice to know how much plastik i need to buy and how much it will cost me.
As it's possib
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tmahring
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RepLab Working Group
Quoteto avoid any danger with long-time-exposure to nanoscale particles that are small enough to pass even the best filter and are much more 'active' than typical fumes ...
Well, as far as I know, a active carbon filter only filters chemicals, which are able to react with the carbon, but doesn't have any particle filtering effect at all. So is there even a point in using one or would it be bette
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tmahring
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Laser Cutter Working Group
Do you guys think an active carbon filter, like the ones used by weed growers, would do the job ?
Here is an example:
Those should be industrial grade active carbon filters and avaliable anywhere at a decent price.
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tmahring
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Laser Cutter Working Group