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Printing issues ...
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true... you can't use it to *contribute*, but you can certainly make parts at your house for your own purposes, or to create .stl's for thingiverse. unless i'm not understanding it fully... i have a license for solidworks and inventor both so i've never done much research into the free versions. all i know is they're fully functional versions without any restrictions that are "free for educati
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PastaRocket848
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General
ttsalo Wrote:
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> PastaRocket848 Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > i've never gotten a single ABS print to
> complete
> > without *some* warping on the corners/bottom
> > layer. i've gone all the way to 130c on the
> bed,
> > using PET and Kapton.
>
> Not a
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PastaRocket848
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General
i've had nothing but issues with PLA. the idea that it doesn't require a heated bed is rubbish. it'll warp like crazy and sometimes not even stick well enough to complete a print (using blue painters tape as a surface). that said, each material has it's advantages and drawbacks.
i've never gotten a single ABS print to complete without *some* warping on the corners/bottom layer. i've gone all
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PastaRocket848
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General
i've never heard of anyone using an UNO to power a reprap. i'm surprised the firmware even fit on the flash, but beyond that, what are you using to break out the stepper controllers? some sort of custom shield?
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PastaRocket848
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General
with my wade's hinged accessible using the herringbone gears, my steps/mm are in the 850-860 range using 1/16th. that said, steps/mm isn't your problem. what are you using for a hot end? does it sound like the extruder is skipping steps? if you extrude into free air do you get a nice, solid stream of plastic?
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PastaRocket848
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General
bobc Wrote:
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> PastaRocket848 Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > fwiw though, it's not that i don't "know how"
> to
> > program scad. i've been programming computers
> a
> > long, long time. i "know how" to stab myself
> in
> > the eye with a fork. that doesn't
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PastaRocket848
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General
try repetier host. i believe it's available for linux (i know it's on windows), uses slic3r, and has a boat load of features printrun is missing out of the box (gcode/realtime visualization, eeprom settings, etc).
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PastaRocket848
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General
thank you all for your input. i agree that people should be able to use what they choose to use, and it doesn't bother me that others don't agree with me, i just didn't know if there was some awesome feature or something i was missing out on that caused the (virtually) entire reprap community to use SCAD.
fwiw though, it's not that i don't "know how" to program scad. i've been programming co
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PastaRocket848
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General
....inventor solidworks sketchup, all export stl. you can't print an SCAD file either. of course STL will be there for people who don't intend to modify anything. my point is why do people attach .SCAD files as source rather than an actual solid format like .SLDPRT, .IPT, .STEP, etc.
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PastaRocket848
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General
SCAD - 12 years ago
Something has had me wondering for a while now. Why is it that everything on Thingiverse is created/distributed as SCAD? I've played with it a bit... and it's a nightmare. This is coming from a full-time computer programmer. I would love to be able to modify the parts I download from thingiverse easily (without importing the STL as a body, basically), but very few things are available in a "r
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PastaRocket848
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General
i've found that the latest version (0.70) of slic3r will handle virtually everything i throw at it. occasionally itll need a file to be run through repair, but that's no big deal. certainly not as painful as setting up skeinforge....
for a host i've been using repetier host. it supports marlin's eeprom firmware settings. that alone is enough for me... makes calibration trivial.
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PastaRocket848
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General
marlin vastly improved my prints with no other changes to the slicing mechanism (in my case, slic3r).
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PastaRocket848
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Reprappers
Because its just simple. It only fits together one way. No adjustment necessary, no jigs, no complex part assembly. It goes together the way it looks like it goes together, was my point.
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PastaRocket848
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Developers
I wouldn't recommend any threaded-rod based design to someone building their first machine. Mendelmax all the way. Set it and forget it, no tweaking. Sure it's light on documentation.... because its like an erector set. It only fits one way and if it fits it's straight and correct. The rest is just regular reprap x/y/z that doesn't require explanation beyond what's already out there.
I'd sa
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PastaRocket848
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Developers
I have been having the exact same issue and it's been extremely frustrating. this problem just kinda popped up one day out of nowhere, i had never experienced it (to a noticeable degree) before. i used to be able to print the pink panther woman with no ill effects. now, when i do so, even the very slightest overhang (the bottom of her right leg, for instance) causes nasty curling such that sub
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PastaRocket848
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Printing
wow... way to say hello. why is there so much animosity from (certain) people any time anyone tries to sell anything around here? don't you all appreciate what they do? it's not like you are all out there grinding out smooth rod in your garage. no need to jump down the guy's throat for trying to start something that will ultimately benefit the entire community.
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PastaRocket848
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Reprappers
the same thing happened to me printing a lego from thingiverse. hasn't happened again since.
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PastaRocket848
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General
It's ultimachine pla, black. It's only clogged twice, once before I believe was the result of stripping the filament and little chunks of plastic getting down in there. Both it's happened have been shortly after stripping the filament on accident. the weird thing is that my jhead won't extrude pla with a fan on it at all. The extrusion becomes thin and sparse an it eventually strips the filam
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PastaRocket848
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General
i ran into extrusion problems yesterday while using a fan to cool the pla (weird, right? wouldn't extrude with the fan.. shredded the filament). i found that my nozzle had become difficult to push filament through once again, as i suspected due to the extrusion issues. i did the same old trick... a filament of wire up the heated nozzle, and it was back to normal in no time. once again it requ
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PastaRocket848
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General
i had what you might call "instant success", in that i was successfully printing relatively pretty test cubes out of the gate. i didn't build a kit however, i self-sourced a mendelmax.
i attribute the ease of setup to the design of the mendelmax. you simply can't get it (that) wrong. things are either straight and proper or they just don't fit. with a threaded-rod based design there are a LO
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PastaRocket848
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General
i dont know what is "normal"... but with my 3mm filament and 0.35mm nozzle the weight of my hand is nearly enough to push the filament through. i don't have to push on it barely at all.
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PastaRocket848
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General
For what it's worth I have a jhead mk4 .35mm and I had the exact same problem, very hard to push filament through manually an extrusion issues. I heated up the hot end, stuck a filament of wire in the nozzle and wiggled it around a bit, cleaning out the nozzle. It now extrudes with almost no force at all manually and I have no issues extruding. It does seem to ooze a lot, however.
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PastaRocket848
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General
Maybe the hobbed bolt/gear/whatever you use tore it up on the way back out?
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PastaRocket848
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Reprappers
I solved the same issue recently by tightening a grub screw that had backed off on a motor allowing the pulley to slip.
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PastaRocket848
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General
You can pause with most host software. It's not immediate, though, and doesn't perform a retract so it leave a glob of plastic behind.
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PastaRocket848
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Developers
Sometimes if I forget to slack off the nuts on the idler, the pressure will smash the still-malleable filament flat while I'm reversing it out. This prevents the filament from fitting through the feed hold in the wade's extruder block. Fixing it requires removing the idler, grabbing it out with a pair of needle nose pliers and snipping off the smashed part so the filament can fit be removed.
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PastaRocket848
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General
my general rule of thumb is that if something looks exactly like another product and the website features broken english, stay far far away. learned my lesson with the chinese hobby equipment the hard way.
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PastaRocket848
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General
i used 16g wire initially on my heated bed mk2 (controlled by ramps) and the wire would get very, very hot. also, the bed could only get up to about 80c due to the added resistance. replaced with heavier gauge wire and now it heats up to 110c no problem.
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PastaRocket848
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General
well i certainly hope everything works out great for you and you enjoy your time reprapping, i just can't help but think the timing and coincidence of a couple new members showing up to tell us how great Botmill is about a week after their "reintroduction" on the forum. i suppose you could call me cynical.
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PastaRocket848
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General
RAMPS 1.4 seems to be the most popular. I use one, and have had no issues. Lots of expandability, modular design so you can reuse your stepper drivers when the time comes. I'd recommend it though I've never tried anything else. The R2C2 project looks interesting but i've never seen one in use or read the documentation.
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PastaRocket848
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General
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