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Printing issues ...
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Some glass doesn't work. I remember trying a piece of glass from a picture frame and it wouldn't stick at any temperature. I finally bought this glass and it works great from 50C to 110C.
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s4lt3d
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Printing
This sounds horrible, but a pair of decent calipers should be about $20. Go buy some from amazon or from a local hardware store. Don't spend $50, you can get them for under $20. I tried doing what you're doing, and it works... eventually. But you'll go through $10 worth of plastic before it works. Its worth the investment for the tools you need. If you calibrate it all with calipers (extrusion le
by
s4lt3d
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Printing
Are you still working on this problem? Do you use slic3r? Its most likely a calibration problem. Do you own calipers?
by
s4lt3d
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Printing
Does it look like this sometimes? It starts out really good, then gets worse and worse layer by layer. Really helpful site, the art of 3d print failure on flickr.
Fixed it with cooling/slowing down. I feel like every printer should have a fan. Fans are the reason commercial printers works as good as they do. If you don't have a fan, just slow down the print to allow the PLA to cool, maybe try
by
s4lt3d
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Printing
I think I know what you mean. You could maybe do it if you added some weird support in the STL, but I don't think any program will help you make a good hinge out of the box. If you're printing on glass you can easily cut your model in a few pieces, just slice it right in half with meshlab or openscad. The best part about printing on glass is that the parts will match perfectly since each half wil
by
s4lt3d
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Printing
I turn two 40mm fans on after the first layer is laid down. I had the exact same problem. I couldn't build the heart gears until I added cooling. The print bed stays hot enough to keep the part down even when cooling. Commercial printers have ridiculous amounts of cooling inside. Its their little secret.
by
s4lt3d
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Printing
When I started, I made my own hobbed bolt, and it worked okay. But it couldn't provide the gripping power I always needed and they weren't always perfectly round, although you couldn't tell just by looking at it. I think my printer has a hive76 m8 bolt now that I bought from ultimachine.com.
It just works a lot more consistent then the hobbed bolts I was making. They have a higher tolerance tha
by
s4lt3d
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Printing
I had a similar problem and it was hard to nail down. For me it came down to cooling, and maybe this will fix your problem too. I was having with prints fail so I would increase the extrusion multiplier in slic3r. I was printing with a multiplier of 1.8 to get parts to stay together. My prints wouldn't fail, but I wouldn't get holes where I should and parts didn't fit together like I expected. Wh
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s4lt3d
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Printing
This is probably a little late, but I also had the exact same problem. The budaschnozzle doesn't have sufficient cooling ability when used with a hot bed so its pretty much required to use a cooling fan somewhere around the nozzle with PLA. With ABS its fine without the fan. I bought a cheap small desk fan ($5) at a local store and placed it next to the printer, that seemed to work enough to kee
by
s4lt3d
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Reprappers
Thanks DeuxVis,
I tried printing again with two perimeters just to see if the problem went away, and it did. I guess that 0.25 nozzle just can't do one perimeter, which is fine.
I stopped the print pretty early and printed again with your settings. Seems to work pretty great. I don't have a fan so that might be why I have problems with the low angles on the ears and the initial part of the chi
by
s4lt3d
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Printing
I started a print but it was pretty clear it was going to fail after a few layers.
Failure at corners
Failure at start of new layer
Here's the settings I'm using in slic3r
Layer height: 0.1
First Layer Ratio: 2
Perimeters: 1
Solid Layers: 2
Retraction Length: 1
Lift Z: 0
Speed: 90
Extra length on restart: 0.01
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s4lt3d
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Printing
I'm currently printing with a layer thickness of 0.15mm. I'll decrease it to 0.1mm, and let you know how it goes.
by
s4lt3d
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Printing
I'm having a hard time calibrating my new nozzle. I built a prusa with a budaschnozzle. The budaschnozzle came with a 0.5mm nozzle and that was fine, but I wanted more resolution so I bought the 0.25mm nozzle. I'm using slic3r for the most part and it worked great with the 0.5mm nozzle. I've been trying to print a single wall yoda just to tune in the new nozzle. I know it won't print the entire y
by
s4lt3d
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Printing