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Printing issues ...
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Yea the method I posted gets around the old boot loader generating errors when you attempt to upload firmware. Since my Gen6 was older and I would be wiling to bet yours is as well you will need to update the boot loader unless someone has done this which would most likely be the case if it is running 1.1.x. The information Dust posted replaces my link for downloading the drivers for Sanguino and
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rotinaj13
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Sanguino(lolu)
lol yea that is a bit easier! I was searching the net and trying to follow the path from 00xx days till now. Yes my board and my expertise was out of date a lot has changed since I built my printer in 2010-2011. Honestly the changes are rather amazing that has happened. Thank you for the updated info!!
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rotinaj13
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Sanguino(lolu)
Ok so I got over my fear of bricking the only controller for this printer and was finally able to get Marlin 1.1.8 on my GEN6 board. So as I am sure you have found out the GEN6 board has an older bootloader which is most likely from Arduino legacy days (00XX). Marlin 1.1.8 needs to be compiled in something newer than Arduino IDE 1.6.8. I downloaded Arduino IDE 1.8.5 and installed it from:
Now
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rotinaj13
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Sanguino(lolu)
I just got my printer setup again which uses the GEN6 board. I was looking at updating the firmware. Did you get 1.1.8 to run on the GEN6 board?
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rotinaj13
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Sanguino(lolu)
I used an unorthadox method for doing this, I cut a clear straw at 100mm and marked it every 10mm then slid that over my filament to measure it. I had it calibrated at 235 steps/mm however when doing the 100% infill by the 3rd layer it was pushing blobs around with the print nozzle. when I cut the steps down to 185 it seems like it performs the infill much better but still doesnt take it long bef
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rotinaj13
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Printing
I am running a repstrap with gen6 electronics with sprinter flashed on it. I keep tweaking the E steps using m92 Exxx. I either get blobs that get pushed around that pile up on my hotend or I am getting what looks like threads breaking. I have a j head nozzle .35 wades geared extruder. I am using slicer with pronterface. Settings are .2 layer height, .42 width, 15mm/s on infill and perimeters, I
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rotinaj13
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Printing
Okay so what I learned from this is proper Z height! The blobs at the base of the print were caused by having the Z set to low for the first layer. I played around with it testing different values in the Z offset in Slic3r till I got a first layer that was very very close to what slic3r was looking for the layer in terms of width. After that I tried the test print again. It came out pretty good.
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rotinaj13
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Printing
Ok I got the settings to where it matches what I measured. I have not reprinted the .5 cube to verify everything matches up with these settings. It was close to 100 here today and my ac in the car stopped so I spent some time diagnosing it. After I changed the settings to what you suggested to check the width I printed the .5 cube. I measured it at .381mm. This is the start of the gcode after I c
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rotinaj13
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Printing
This is going to make me look like a total n00b but u dont learn if you dont ask questions, even dumb ones. When you said "0 base layers and 0 infill" what settings should I change? I looked in Slic3r but did not see the settings you mentioned. Thank you for all your help polygon
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rotinaj13
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Printing
Thank you for the information Polygon! I checked it and this is what slic3r put in the gcode:
; layer_height = 0.28
; perimeters = 2 <------- I need to knock this to 1 before checking the width correct?
; solid_layers = 2
; fill_density = 0.4
; nozzle_diameter = 0.35
; filament_diameter = 2.819
; extrusion_multiplier = 1.1
; perimeter_speed = 20
; infill_speed = 20
; travel_speed = 130
;
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rotinaj13
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Printing
Well it isnt so much that it is not clearing the last layer in terms of Z axis. When it prints the perimeter and moves to the inside to start the infill it will make the first few lines of the infill fine then it starts plowing into the previous line but only a little bit. It is noticable at about the 50% mark when the line is longer which then creates a few blobs. As the layers start to build th
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rotinaj13
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Printing
It is within a couple of degrees of what my multimeter reads on it. the blobs are the main part that is concerning me and for the first few layers it is like the layer is wider than what slicer thinks so the printhead starts to plow through a little bit of the side of the last infill layer and this keeps building up till it gets pushed out of the print. I have tried a few different settings but c
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rotinaj13
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Printing
It usually waits till about 180 till it starts to print. Lower it to 175?
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rotinaj13
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Printing
This is the 20mm solid cube from the calibration wiki page. It measures 19.9898 x 19.9898 x 9.7282. The blobs around the bottom seem to be happening from the second layer to about the 5th or so layer. it is not lifting from the bed so the adhesion is good. this is printed from a wolfstrap with the jhead nozzle .35 everything was calibrated and was within tolerances. print head gap is 2 paper thic
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rotinaj13
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Printing
Wow thats a lot of difference there Greg! Out of those which one is your best so that I can set my goal. Here is a picture of the cube. On the top that little bit on the top was from my extruder stopping after the print was done then me moving it. I should really add some code in my slic3r to automate this! Let me know what you think. At this moment it is the best that I have printed thus far
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rotinaj13
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Reprappers
Wow what a crazy difference your suggestions have made! It turns out that my initial problem was that my printhead was too high. I have lowered it to the point that if I do not set a z offset it has so much adhesion that I have to remove the tape to remove the part. I also slowed down my speeds in slic3r to slow the travel down a bit this has made a difference in the quality of the cube. I will e
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rotinaj13
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Reprappers
Okay I added the glass print bed have it leveled just about as close as I can get it. I think I have my Min z level set 2 low. My first layer is very thin and very stuck to the print bed. The first layer is 1.73mm wide and .1 mm high. I have attached a picture of the print.
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rotinaj13
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Reprappers
Hello Greg,
Thank you for the welcome. I assume that the settings in the firmware you mention are the steps to calibrate the printer to move exactly 100mm when you command it to and not the max feedrate for the axis? I have the printer steps calibrated so that each axis moves the ammount asked. For the extruder I calibrated this with the hotend off to ensure it moves the right amount of
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rotinaj13
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Reprappers
After a lot of work and figuring things out and learning on the fly, I have my wolfstrap printing. I am using a j head nozzle the short variation. I was printing at 185. It has a .35 nozzle and using "3"mm PLA. I do not have a heated bed, it is wood with 3 layers of 3m blue tape on it. I roughed down the bed lightly with fine grit sand paper and cleaned it with acetone. I have included pictures o
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rotinaj13
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Reprappers
I was not having a lot of luck with Marlin but I have sprinter loaded on it right now and have been making adjustments. I think it is safe to say I have the procedure of opening, modifying, saving, compiling and uploading the firmware down pat right now lol. I have been getting some testing done with it thus far. Atm I have everything working just about correctly. I have my y and z axis working g
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rotinaj13
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Controllers
Traumflug,
I do appreciate your time and help assisting me with this. I assure you I am working on the learning curve. I backed up my org. firmware as a hex file with avrdude just to be on the safe side. I then flashed with Marlin, I was planning on uploading it again this morning since it was like 4 am when i did my last upload and attempted to drive the printer. I was using repsnapper 3.52
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rotinaj13
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Controllers
Traumflug,
lol Sorry the n00b question lol. I believe it is fiveD that is loaded on the board. I didn't really buy the board due to the firmware being preloaded since my reprap is not cut from their mold I will have to configure it and tweak it till it fits my reprap any how. It was simply the cheapest option and being a reformed college student (broke adult) that made the most sense. I ha
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rotinaj13
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Controllers
I just got my wolfstrap complete and started to test it the other night.. needless to say I ran into some issues. For instance the X and Y axis motos were getting hot even though they were not being sent commands to move, turning the pots did nothing for that. The Z axis and extruder are staying cool to the touch. I can move the X and Y axis .1 1 -.1 and -1 but if I try for a longer move they stu
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rotinaj13
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Controllers