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Printing issues ...
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It could be caused by backlash. Are your belts tight enough to make a "twang" sound when plucked?
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Lodorenos
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Reprappers
Looks very nice, I've been wanting to build one to recycle failed prints or PP plastic items.
I looked into the FilaBot but honestly the creator seems to be somewhat of an arrogant self absorbed high horse rider, letting people wait months and months on an update and never replying to emails.
The main blockage for me to keep me from diving head first into a project like this is the availability
by
Lodorenos
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General
My first hotend was 0.25mm, things took a long time to print but they looked very nice. I had minimal problems.
by
Lodorenos
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Reprappers
It's suggested you use 5mm plastic tubing, the kind used in aqariums. Bike inner tube also works though.
I bought 5 meters of the stuff, if you cover me on shipping costs I can send you some.
by
Lodorenos
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Reprappers
I've been using a 0.25mm version of this hotend for three months and it performs perfectly. As long as you make sure to secure it with both of the support rods AND the 3mm grub screw, you'll be good to go.
by
Lodorenos
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General
The hotend does not determine the print speed when it comes to mm/s. The smaller your nozzle is, the longer things take to print. You set the print speed (mm/s) in your slicing program.
by
Lodorenos
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General
I've had windows reboot due to updates a few times halfway into a full plate print or something else usually printed overnight. Such a waste of plastic! I've since turned off automatic reboot for updates, but printing from an SD card is a smart thing to do.
by
Lodorenos
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General
Are you any closer to developing a 3mm version of this? I'd be excited to try printing with PET.
by
Lodorenos
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General
You can use 123D Sculpt for the iPad if you have one. No one has developed an app to print from a mobile phone as far as I'm aware, but I don't see any benefits in doing so.
by
Lodorenos
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3D Design tools
How far away from the print bed is your printer nozzle? In the correct poition,it should be nearly impossible for the exatrusion to curl up without hitting the print area.
by
Lodorenos
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Printing
Try adding a sponge or something right above your extruder entry hole so that any contaminants such as dust are cleaned from the filament before it is fed into the extruder.
by
Lodorenos
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General
I bought a 60g tube of thermal adhesive from ebay for $2, it works wonderfully.
by
Lodorenos
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Controllers
I had this happen to be in the beginning, it was the exact same problem as your orange parts show. I fixed it by adding a 120mm 12v fan blowing down onto my electronics board, because I presumed it was caused by the X axis motor skipping steps because of overheating. I no longer have this problem, but my prints are pretty noisy because of that fan. You might also want to try turning down the pot
by
Lodorenos
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Printing
It is probably something else, as I can easily install firmware with only the USB cable attached. What exactly do you mean when you say you can't load firmware? Does the Arduino IDE not see it? On a side note, the newest version produces errors when compiling, but the old 0.23 works perfectly.
Please be as descriptive as you can with these issues, so you have the most change of being aided!
by
Lodorenos
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General
I realize this is an old topic, but would the same work for the Marlin firmware? My X and Y values are both at 80, but my circles turn out slightly oval every time. The only thing I haven't tried is changing that value.
Is this formula correct for Marlin?
New setting = current setting*distance moved in host/actual distance moved
NelsonRap Wrote:
-----------------------------------------------
by
Lodorenos
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Reprappers
I use both, but I rely more on the long support screws than the 3mm grubs. It's sturdy as a rock. I've run it into the wooden build plate a few times and it simply carves the wood.
by
Lodorenos
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General
Fortunately for you, I have the exact same hotend with very nice results. (0.25mm nozzle, 16mm diameter, 3mm filament)
In the beginning, I had the exact same problem as you, even when I tried to force the filament in, nothing would come out the end. I was ready to send the seller an angry message. Then I tried to tighten the extruder's idler screws to the absolute maximum, as in NO possibility of
by
Lodorenos
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General
As stated before, Slic3r will lift the print by your layer height before starting the print. It is scary, as I have a hot brass nozzle resting ON glass and if it decides not to lift, either the nozzle or the glass will break as it moves to the middle, but so far so good. I have my endstop set so that it will activate when I'm about a paper thickness away from the surface, and it works perfectly.
by
Lodorenos
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General
The part of this that is interesting is
QuoteConnecting...
start
Printer is now online.
echo: External Reset
Marlin 1.0.0 RC2
Are you sure nothing is pressing the reset button on your electronics board?
by
Lodorenos
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General
If you download a version of the Marlin firmware, you can find the code for motor control in "stepper.cpp".
by
Lodorenos
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General
Hey TonyG,
Finding the steps_per_XX calculations is a great start.
If you are having errors compiling, I recommend starting from scratch and configuring it yourself.
Get a fresh copy from the GIT repo here: , it has Sanguino support with it already. See if the downloaded version compiles without problems first, so you know whether it will actually compile to begin with. Jerk will usually be set
by
Lodorenos
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General
glyn Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> That is the main power to the extruder heater...
> works for me.
I didn't see the two wires going to your hotend at first, it looked like the LED and resistor were the only connected components.
by
Lodorenos
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General
Hello,
Everyone's machine is different, and it is best to customize your firmware to your exact specifications. A great way of doing this is to use Josef Prusa's online calculator located here:
Regarding your question about this site not having a repository of sample files, a lot of the information is contained in the wiki, covering all things from calibration to soldering a RAMPS set.
Rememb
by
Lodorenos
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General
Thanks for your reply VDX. I checked those settings and they seem to be set correcly.
by
Lodorenos
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Repetier
I don't have this problem at home on my laptop but at work I do, and I'm wondering what the fix could be.
About halfway through a slice on the office computer, Repetier will act like it's finished and show half sliced objects in the 3D view. I have attached an image of a few bar clamps to show what I mean.
I suspect that it's a problem with the hardware of the machines.
Machine that is causi
by
Lodorenos
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Repetier
I assume you mean the motor doesn't turn the gear every now and then. Have you tried loosening the extruder idler?
by
Lodorenos
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Reprappers
When I meant grub screw I meant using two very short 3mm screws (sometimes referred to as grub screws) to attach the top of the hotend to the bottom of the extruder. Blow is an image with arrows pointing to the location the grub screws would assist in holding the hotend:
You can also use M3x10 screws if those are easier to find.
by
Lodorenos
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
I use this one for precision prints:
Be SURE to use both the mounting screws AND the grub screw mounts, because PTFE isn't the strongest support material when heated over 275'C.
I also used special 3mm fender washers to increase support surface material.
All in all, it works great for precision quality prints. Mine is 0.25mm, and I print at 0.15mm layer height.
by
Lodorenos
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
a_shorething's reply was correct for 5/16th rods. However, if you want to go even more specific and potentially make a miniscule difference in print quality, use 2267.718321038048.
by
Lodorenos
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General Mendel Topics
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