Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
Page 1 of 2
Pages: 12
Results 1 — 30 of 33
And I think I have answers for both questions now after doing more tinkering yesterday.
1) No real documentation that I can find. The values defined in dwin.h (icon numbers) and the coordinates used in dwin.cpp are strictly tied to the images (and subregions) of the DWIN_SET/*.jpg and *.ico files. Yes, the firmware sends drawing commands over the uart to perform rendering by the display.
The DW
by
BrentB
-
Firmware - Marlin
After doing some hacking on the default display of an ender 3 v2 (see Z-position display hack thread), I learned what the 9.ICO file is.
If you want to change display icons, the 9.ICO file is a container that contains 91 separate JPEG images that the firmware and display use to draw the UI. It's not a standard Windows .ICO file, but serves a similar purpose.
I've created some tools to extract t
by
BrentB
-
Firmware - Marlin
It's been a while since I last hacked on Marlin software, probably when I built my first printer back in 2013...
I recently got a new printer (ender 3 v2) and noticed that it perpetually displays the Z offset in the display's status area. I'm used to the X,Y,Z display on the old LCD, and especially miss the current Z height.
This past weekend I pulled Marlin 2.0.7 and started digging through mo
by
BrentB
-
Firmware - Marlin
Too funny. I never paid attention to the servo pins before, and once I got curious I kept searching after I posted here. Interesting find!
BTW, that looks like a nice little control board. Thanks for posting that. Bookmarked!
by
BrentB
-
RAMPS Electronics
Did you compile your own firmware? (I know Marlin has options for defining the home position of an axis, and also the direction of it. For example, the X axis on my printer is mounted backwards on the machine (motor on rightside of mendelmax), and I home it to X=220. If I didn't have this set correctly, X would be mirrored on my machine.)
Anyway, if you compiled your own firmware I'd check the a
by
BrentB
-
Printing
Agreed, 0.5mm layer height is too much for that nozzle. Jeff, have you calibrated your extruder and axes? I see a lot of values in both of those configs that are suspect.
For instance, I'd set extrusion_multiplier to 1.0 (or very close, depending on calibration process), and then set every other extrusion width to 0.50mm.
For extrusion height, I'd start at 0.4 or 0.333 (0.333 since I like integr
by
BrentB
-
Slic3r
Ah, I see.
BTW, the video was linked to from here, the Marlin source repo:
The README displayed there has a lot of info about setting up auto-levelling in marlin.
by
BrentB
-
RAMPS Electronics
What were you using it for, uMinded?
Last night I happened to see this video of automatic printer bed leveling. A servo is mounted to the x carriage, and swings down a probe to detect bed height at three locations. The firmware then follows that gradient when printing. Bed Auto-leveling
by
BrentB
-
RAMPS Electronics
I have the RepRapDiscount RAMPS board and I am wondering about the four servo outputs.
Has anybody used these for anything?
by
BrentB
-
RAMPS Electronics
Wow, that's a great experiment. It's common for skaters (roller and skateboard) to custom dye wheels with RIT dye. I've seen a lot of experiments with this dye on a variety of plastic, but yours is already the most complete comparison and reference.
Thanks for taking the time to do and document this.
by
BrentB
-
Look what I made!
Using percentages makes sense, thanks. In the past I went through and tuned my printer for layer heights of 0.33, 0.25, 0.20, and finally, 0.125. But the extrusion width that Slic3r used to calculate always seemed reasonable, and I'd go with it. The 0.125mm layer height makes for an amazing print, but it essentially doubles the print time.
Since my last post I found a few other practices that pe
by
BrentB
-
Slic3r
My default extrusion width of 0.85mm is just plain large, but that is what Slic3r defaults to with my nozzle and 0.20mm layer height. In Slic3r's Print Settings->Advanced->Extrusion Width section, all my values were 0 which uses the calculated default.
I changed the first value to a more reasonable extrusion width, 0.6, and re-sliced my parts. The infill is much better, and on the vertical
by
BrentB
-
Slic3r
I've been digging through slic3r bugs and it's been mentioned in several ways that slic3r expects to extrude a bead of a certain width, x. Features less than x thick may or may not get printed, or may be missing layers, due to numerical rounding errors (normal with computer math). Features between x and 2x may be printed with 1 or 2 passes, again due to rounding. But you and I are seeing this in
by
BrentB
-
Slic3r
I've seen the dot effect in a few spots, and I think there are a couple of those useless points in the second image I attached.
I doubled the size of my bracket, and those areas were infilled as we would expect, so the issue is indeed the narrow gaps. I wonder how some of the other settings may affect the logic of the infill generator, things like auto-gen extra perimeters, solid-area-infill thr
by
BrentB
-
Slic3r
I've noticed a difference in the infill with Slic3r 0.9.10b. This version actually fixed several problems relating to infill of small areas vs. single-wall configuration (like, to force a "small" object to be hollow), but it's also broken infill patterns around small areas.
For example, I have a square bracket with a circular hole. As the distance between the hole and edge boundaries decreases,
by
BrentB
-
Slic3r
I've seen some changes in the way Slic3r handles either thin shapes or infill of small areas. I have seen changes between 0.9.3 to 0.9.8, and 0.9.10.
But, since you say the shape is not infilled when you enlarge it, I wonder if there's some interaction between the "solid infill threshold" and normal infill somehow.
by
BrentB
-
Slic3r
Mine is more elaborate, but as for temperature my custom start Gcode has these:
M140 S ; start heating bed
G28 X0 Y0; home X&Y
G1 X50 Y0 F6000
M109 S ; extruder temp wait
M190 S ; bed temp wait
I do this so that the time waiting for temperature is waiting on the "long pole", the nozzle temp. By the time the nozzle is up to temp, the bed has long been stable (so the M190 command takes minima
by
BrentB
-
Slic3r
In my experience, a high acceleration rate caused oscillation, as the acceleration rate is also the rate used to slow the print head/bed.
On my mendelmax printer, I'm running Marlin firmware and have found these accelerations to work well.
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1000,1000,50,500} // X,Y,Z,E
I'd change your 5000 mm/s^2 rates down to 1000, and just see how it works. Adjust up or d
by
BrentB
-
Printing
If you have cooling enabled in Slic3r and the layer area is within the limits set in Slic3r, the printer will indeed be slowed. Any speed increases you make won't be seen.
Once you get to larger layers (in area, not thickness), you'll see the speed changes.
The tricky part is that as you increase the speed, the area that triggers cooling increases, too, since Slic3r uses time estimates to gauge
by
BrentB
-
Printing
Do you have "Randomize starting points" selected in Slic3r? I had a problem with blobs like that, and when I print the calibration cube I uncheck the "randomize starting points" to see what's is happening at the corners. The blobs then moved to the start/finish of each layer, making it easier to identify and fix.
I've been tuning my printer, too, and I ran into blobby, wobbly walls. Enabling coo
by
BrentB
-
Printing
Thanks for the info. I'm printing in one PLA from one manufacturer right now, so I'll tweak speeds and heights to see how it goes.
I asked because I was wondering about the mechanical properties of plastic once you get down to thin layers (100 microns and less), since it seemed the smaller you go the more "smearing" of plastic could take place versus "flow". But as you said, keep speeds and flow
by
BrentB
-
Printing
Hi all,
I'm tuning my printer (MM, 0.5mm nozzle) and am wondering about the extrusion envelopes for various nozzles.
How does nozzle size affect layer height and thread width sizes?
Or in other words, what is the thinnest layer height that can be printed by these nozzles: 0.5, 0.4, 0.35, 0.25?
I know people (both in person and on this forum) are printing <= 100 micron layers, but I don't kn
by
BrentB
-
Printing
Annnd, dropped layers to 0.333mm since last posting and got good results on a 80x130x4 mm plate.
by
BrentB
-
Printing
I don't know what causes raised corners, but my first prints had this too. I believe it's a combination of extrusion temp, speed, and acceleration. My printer is a MM1.5, RAMPS, Slic3r, and a 0.5mm hotend.
My first objects were printed at 0.3mm layer height, at 100mm/sec, and 185C PLA. The firmware had high acceleration values. These objects had awful raised corners, and incorrect dimensions.
I
by
BrentB
-
Printing
Basics first, no insult intended.
I use Marlin firmware, and when configuring it, one must specify the board type (33 for RAMPS), then in pins.h define the appropriate RAMPS version macro. I don't know if Sprinter has this same process, but if so, double check what the settings (board and pin assignments) are.
Is the 12V tied into the 5A input on the RAMPS board? This is important because the 1
by
BrentB
-
General Mendel Topics
I never see Amazon Supply (www.amazonsupply.com) mentioned in maker-like forums. This was the company formerly known as Small Parts, Inc, which was purchased by Amazon some time ago.
If interested, check out their spring selection in the "Power Transmission" section. It seems the springs come in packs of 10, and most are about US $16-18 for that, so it's pricey but the spring spec filtering is g
by
BrentB
-
General
I just suffered through this problem with a buda-style nozzle. The kit was from Gadgets 3D and included a PTFE tube that had an internal diameter of 4 mm. This kit was for 3mm filament.
I measured my PLA to be 2.85mm, so the difference of 1.15mm is quite a bit of slop. This gap allowed melted plastic to flow up the tube, where it would cool, adhere to incoming filament, and jam.
I tried numerou
by
BrentB
-
General
Success!
Today I revisited the problems I've had with Gadgets3D's buda hotend. I reassembled everything, trimmed the Lulzbot PTFE tube to fit snugly, fired it up, and it didn't jam once. That confirms the theory that the ptfe tubing, when properly fit, acts as a thermal AND melted-plastic barrier, a seal of sorts.
I printed about ten 20mm calibration cubes today, letting the hotend heat, print,
by
BrentB
-
Printing
Excellent information, guys. The other defective part is the otfe tube. Where the filament is folded in my picture, the ID of the ptfe is 4.0mm. This morning I received the ptfe tube I ordered from lulzbot, and its ID is 3.0mm. I think that will act as the "piston bore"/seal as mentioned.
I'll try it out this weekend.
by
BrentB
-
Printing
Today I had a chance to do some testing. I reassembled just the nozzle, heating block and threaded tube to check temperature and manual extrusion. My idea about using thermal compound wasn't tried, as I confirmed that the thermistor is getting a good reading just sitting in the block. I checked temperatures at 100, 160 and 185C against an IR thermometer, and the reported temps by firmware were ri
by
BrentB
-
Printing
Page 1 of 2
Pages: 12