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Printing issues ...
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Thanks Neil for your contributions to the community.
I wish you success on your future endeavors.
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demetris
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Mendel90
Well, I have a wooden enclosure for the printer, so I put the spool on top of that so that the filament doesn't need to travel much.
by
demetris
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Mendel90
Not quite what you are looking for, but I printed these rollers (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1000546) which are quite hassle-free since they require no bolts. You just snap in the bearings that come with your printer. Also, since the two rollers are separate, they can work with any spool width. They worked great for me so far!
by
demetris
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Mendel90
Quotenophead
Looks like you are trying to fit the parts for the sturdy version to a dibond machine.
Ouch! You are right. Thanks.
by
demetris
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Mendel90
I think the bridge turned out well. The photo shows printing of the layers after the bridge
@nophead: The distance between the bracket mounting slots seems much smaller than it should and does not fit my printer (bought it March 2013). Is there another version of the x-axis carriage? Also, how do you orient the e3d hotend in order to fit the duct?
Thanks.
by
demetris
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Mendel90
Sorry for jumping in, I tried the latest version of Slic3r (1.3.0-dev 510ca9f) and bridges seem to work fine.
I am currently printing this, so I could update you on the results once finished.
by
demetris
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Mendel90
Neil, the fan looks incomplete because I used the previewing feature of Slic3r to show a very thin wall layer to make my point.
Do you have your fan fully on during the under 5 sec layers?
Thanks.
by
demetris
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Mendel90
Great! Thanks guys. I will give it a shot at the next printing session
by
demetris
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Mendel90
Quotedaichiasuka
I've never had to use a dummy object, but I've never fully understood this logic.
I don't want to waste material. The reasons are not only economical. If I am able to pull it off without that then it makes much sense.
by
demetris
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Mendel90
I am using ABS printing at 240 C.
by
demetris
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Mendel90
Hi thanks for the suggestions. I should have already stated that I am using the cooling feature of Slic3r that does slow down the print. But as you can see the area is way too small, so even if you slow it down it does cause problems.
The second solution might work but that means I have to print a dummy object that I don't need and waste plastic. I am sure people here have successfully printed t
by
demetris
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Mendel90
Hello. I am trying to print the fan duct that is compatible with e3D hotend. At some point the part becomes very thin, and the plastic just wont have enough time to cool before the new layer comes.
Do you have any suggestions that might help me print this? Thanks.
by
demetris
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Mendel90
Thanks Neil, you were very informative.
In my case speed is really important as I cannot use the printer for long periods (because we live in a small apartment). However, I don't think I can go with 0.4mm layer height since the nozzle diameter is 0.4mm. I would have to go with 0.35mm. What nozzle size do you use?
by
demetris
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Mendel90
Quotenophead
If you are re-printing it there is a version specifically for E3D here: . It will get you back some of the Z height you lost. Also there is a fan duct and bracket in the same branch.
Thank you Chris. Do you have any general guidelines for slicing? For example, fill percentage, layer height etc?
by
demetris
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Mendel90
Just an update.
The e3d arrived and I installed it on my Mendel90. I plan to make a post to summarize the procedure that others might find useful.
One thing that I did not anticipate was that the hotend was not fitting well in the socket of the base. It seems that the groove is shorter than the socket and as a result even after tightening the screws, the hotend was not firmly secured. This see
by
demetris
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Mendel90
I took it apart again and again in an effort to understand and fix the problem. The plastic keeps coming out from the side; take a look at the picture
I tightened the set screw all the way in in order to compensate for the missing PTFE liner part I cut away, and the missing bronze spacer. What is strange is that when I manually extrude everything seems to work fine. Plastic coming out of the n
by
demetris
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Mendel90
Thank you.
So do you think I need to buy a complete new kit? Because if the PEEK is also broken then replacing the PTFE alone the hotend may still be dysfunctional.
by
demetris
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Mendel90
Thank you Chris for the informational reply.
I will try to fix it but first a couple of more questions. It worries me that the plastic is coming out from the side fo the cold end indicated by the arrow in the image (I am not at home to take a picture, so I used a stock picture of the jhead).
Is this happening because the PTFE tube is not tightly connected to the hotend? Or some else i broken?
by
demetris
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Mendel90
Hello all,
So my printer was working fine, printing both PLA and ABS since 2013. Yesterday I tried printing a new brand PLA and got into problems.
After loading the filament and checking that is extruding at 195 C, I started the print and after a while no filament was coming out of the nozzle. I reversed the flow and pulled the filament out of the hotend and tried again. The same thing happened
by
demetris
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Mendel90
I agree with 'the_digital_dentist'. Judging from the perimeters in your picture, the lines seems to be much thinner than expected.
Also in the advanced tab, you will find the 'infill/perimeters overlap' setting which seems to be a problem shown in your object.
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demetris
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Slic3r
QuoteRRuser
After resetting to default settings, looks like the problem was that I had first-layer height (0.2 or 0.15) set to less than other layers (0.3). After taking the default slic3r first-layer height of 0.4 it now looks great.
It shouldn't matter what you choose for first layer height. Slic3r does calculate the correct E steps in order to extrude wide enough lines to fill the area.
Quot
by
demetris
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Slic3r
Well you could be under-extruding that is why lines come out narrower. Make sure that your filament diameter is correct.
There is no setting to adjust this from the GUI. From my experience Slic3r produces the correct distances that produce good solid layers. If you want you can attach your gcode and I can take a look.
by
demetris
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Slic3r
Do you have any weird values in the 'Acceleration Control' found in 'Printer Settings' and then 'Speed'?
by
demetris
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Slic3r
What do you mean by 'bead'?
by
demetris
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Slic3r
On the 'Plater' tab, select your object, then click 'Settings' and then go to 'Layers' tab.
by
demetris
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Slic3r
Quotethe_digital_dentist
I'm starting to play with OnShape, a cloud based CAD by the people who developed Solidworks (so naturally, it works a lot like solidworks). The huge advantage is that you can do CAD using any web browser, anywhere you have internet access (assuming the OnShape servers are working).
+1 for Onshape. I used it for a couple of designs and works great so far. It is free and
by
demetris
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General
Thanks Neil. I will go to my local supplier then and see what I can find! I still use UHU stick and works really well for me. I just touch the UHU stick on a wet cloth 4-5 times and then wipe the bed with it and that's it. If they stick too much, I saw a tip somewhere (I think the original idea was from Chris?) to put the glass in the freezer and it works really well.
Thank you for the extra inf
by
demetris
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Mendel90
In a recent print, I had a piece of glass broken away as I tried to unstick the part (it was the first time I used UHU glue!). For now the glass is OK because I turned it upside down and the other side is fine. Anyway I want to buy a spare part just in case.
Does the particular glass coming with Mendel90 have any special properties, or is it a regular 2mm glass? I never had any problems with it
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demetris
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Mendel90
Quotedmould
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demetris
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Slic3r
Tha is the correct behaviour. If you want to turn it upside down, then in the 3D view right click on the object, choose 'Rotate', then 'Around X axis...' and choose 180 degrees.
by
demetris
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Slic3r
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Pages: 123