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Changing it in the Marlin firmware is where you should make the change. It may take a couple changes depending on where your y end stop is located.
My end stops are on the same end as the motor.
by
Spk64
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General Mendel Topics
Slic3r is very quick. Seconds to slice into gcode.
It's fee download and try it out.
by
Spk64
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Slic3r
I generally print abs at 230c so you may be a little cool depending on how your hot end is calibrated.
Cooling on the extruder might help get you printing but I would recommend printing an ABS extruder as soon as possible.
Are you using a standard j- head?
Any pics of your setup?
by
Spk64
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General Mendel Topics
1. Sounds like it might not be hot enough. What temp are you running?
2. A PLA extruder will be a problem printing ABS without some active cooling to prevent it from getting soft.
3. Do you have the underside insulated at all? I used a single piece of cardboard wrapped in aluminum foil to help direct heat upward. To speed up heating of the plate I will place a piece of cardboard on top the pla
by
Spk64
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General Mendel Topics
You could just add offsets and set the bed size to restrict it in the software.
I am guessing that the end stops are only being read while homing. So if you do hit and end stop while printing the printer will not stop.
Personally I just keep in mind where the clips and such are. Majority of the time I am never near them. Starting gcode brings it close on each print to purge the nozzle.
by
Spk64
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General Mendel Topics
20-30mm is plenty fast for calibrating, you want it to go slow so no slipping takes place.
by
Spk64
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General Mendel Topics
The bed stl let's you show a solid model of your bed if you like. Not really needed for anything.
I have been using Kisslicer for a couple weeks and really like it. It is my go to slicer for just about everything.
by
Spk64
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General Mendel Topics
You will also need to add an offset for the bed in Kisslicer.
100mm on x & y I think.
by
Spk64
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General Mendel Topics
Did you set Marlin up to match your particular printer design?
Steps per mm need set for all axis to match your lead screws and belts and pulleys.
Endstops set correctly ?
Feed direction?
Board type etc....
by
Spk64
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General Mendel Topics
Brim adds a "brim around the part at "X" number of layers thick and a given width around the part. Helps parts stick better to build plate
Raft is a structure printed first, then part prints on top of the raft
by
Spk64
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General
Make sure your 2 cables are not reversed. If it was a shielding problem you would see garbled letters and characters.
by
Spk64
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RAMPS Electronics
I have the kit and the only problem I have had is getting the LCD to work reliably.
Tried, shielding cables with a drain wire, very short cables, all with same result of screen displaying garbage in a short amount of time. Finally had lcd portion replaced by Fabster3d and it seemed like it was going to work but shortly there after same problem.
Built a panelmax version and so far it is workin
by
Spk64
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General
If you have a ramps setup the D9 connections can be used for cooling while printing PLA.
by
Spk64
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General Mendel Topics
Did you configure the firmware to work with the brand of LCD you are using?
There are several options towards the end of configuration.h file.
by
Spk64
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Reprappers
Home direction and setup is determined by where your home switches are located and the firmware setup.
I have a mendelmax 1.5 and my home switches are located in the following locations.
With printer in front of me.
X axis switch is on left side
Y axis is in front
Z axis is on bottom
Home is with nozzle on left front of print bed.
Firmware is as follows for end stops.
// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
//
by
Spk64
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General Mendel Topics
Try printing on Blue painters tape to get better first layer adhesion on PLA.
Looks like you have some z wobble with the un-even layer alignment.
Try a single wall cube on the painters tape and see what looks like. With PLA and a single wall print you need a fan blown on the part.
by
Spk64
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Printing
Are you measuring just the first layer being printed or multiple?
If Z is not moving the distance you tell it. Might be the incorrect steps per mm for Z.
What type of leadscrew are you using?
by
Spk64
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General
The pictures of the single wall print looks like a couple things possibly going on.
Layer height too tall and or extruding too much material.
The item that stands out more to me is it appears the layer alignment might be an issue. Looks like something is moving around . Loose belts, pulleys etc...
Is this PLA or ABS being printed? PLA for sure needs a fan for single wall printing.
by
Spk64
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Printing
Make sure your calibrated to your filament in your slicing program. Measure filament in several places and enter into your slicing program.
This solved part of my same problem along with a backlash issue in one direction.
by
Spk64
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General
Could you try printing a 20mm cube with only 1 perimeter and no fil
In the advanced on slic3r set them all to 0 for now.
Also slow it way down, 20-30mm second and 35% on first layer.
If printing abs turn fans off.
Lower temps to 110 bed 230 nozzle
With pictures of this result might be able to see how the printer is moving.
Hard to tell if there are some backlash or firmware settings issues
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Spk64
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Printing
Search around on this forum and you will find your answer. Hint look several post down at Berrybot's post.
by
Spk64
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General
Nope, lots of modifications like this on thingiverse. Makes it much easier to tweak the z location.
by
Spk64
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General Mendel Topics
Get netfabb studio basic it is free. You will need to run it on all files exported from Solidworlks. Kisslicer may not complain about the files but you may get weird results on the print. Most thingiverse files also need repaired also.
by
Spk64
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General
I would try some different filament suppliers or samples. I received one spool of filament from a supplier that would not extrude. It would start out ok but then just quit. The filament was brittle\crumbly and dull vs the shiny surface my other spools have. Also on my last attempt at using this material the filament actually measured 2.4-2.5mm vs the 3mm. This large reduction in size and b
by
Spk64
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Printing
Check your filament first, although it usually runs small which would be the opposite effect.
The other adjustment Slic3r has is the extrusion multiplier. I have see this adjusted to get the correct walls.
See this guide using that method.
by
Spk64
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Printing
Finish does not look too bad in the picture.
Kisslicer improved my outer surfaces considerably. I am sure SF could match it but not sure what settings to adjust.
Kisslicer does not use random start points so you end up with a "seam" instead of random imperfections.
by
Spk64
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Reprappers
I think it may be in the printer setup tab. I had to add 100 x 100 offset to x and y to center my prints.
Also either add gcode to home before printing or home each axis in pronterface before each print. Easier to make the add in kisslicer so each file already homes the axis.
by
Spk64
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General
Start out testing with the 20mm cube hollow with one perimiter.
If this prints true and straight then yoda should print much nicer.
One note on Z wobble at the hot end.
Manually run your z axis up and down, watch the hotend tip. If you have Z wobble the hotend will be moving at the tip and your X slide will be twisting as it is moving up and down.
What type of printer are you using, thi
by
Spk64
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Printing
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