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Re: Using resistive foil for heated bed? - 13 years ago

Well I'm not sure, how is the resistance supposed to be calculated, but when I simply connected my multimeter to opposite sides of the foil, the resistance was about 220ohms, if I remember correctly, which is a bit too high I thought about connecting the wires a bit differently, like one around the edge of the foil and the other in the center, which could lower the total resistance, but would m

by Matouš - Mechanics

Re: Using resistive foil for heated bed? - 13 years ago

Yes, as the text says: "Electrically conductive surface is made from a specially created resistive carbon layer with defined surface resistivity, applied on polyimid (PI) foil".

by Matouš - Mechanics

Using resistive foil for heated bed? - 13 years ago

Has anyone tried this? I have found this on my local electronics parts supplier: (sorry, it's in Czech, I was unable to find any equivalent in English) and wondered, if it could be used to create a heatbed very simply... The parameters for this particular foil are: Resistance: 60Ohm/cm2, Working temperature: -60 to 200°C, Working voltage: 3 to 380V, Electrical energy to temperature conversion ef

by Matouš - Mechanics

Strange moves generated with support - 13 years ago

I have this problem with Skeinforge when using the Raft plugin for generating support. Skeinforge generates a lot of nonsense moves for each layer of the object, the support is generated for. It just moves the head around the edge of the object without extruding anything about three times... I have the Initial Circling option and the Orbit option both turned off in the Raft and Cool plugins. I d

by Matouš - Skeinforge

RepRap heated chamber - 13 years ago

Hi! I just wanted to contribute to this problem, as it seemes rather underestimated by the comunity. If this is not the right place or way to do this please correct me, thanks! So - I built a box for my MendelMax, which works as a heated room (heat from my heatbed and extruder proves to be sufficient to hold the ambient temperature well above room temperature). It is made from wood, which has be

by Matouš - Mechanics

Re: Holes smaller than they should be - 13 years ago

Yes, you are surely right. >This is a tricky thing to accomplish universally for RepRap/FDM (...) Well I believe that this is the case for most of the problems with 3d printing... >A case-by-case solution, as nophead suggested, is the Stretch module in skeinforge just the "script" you're looking for, I think. The Stretch does not convert anything to polyholes as far as I know, it only i

by Matouš - Printing

Re: Optický endstop vs mechanický - 13 years ago

Mechanickej switch má jenom + a -. Prostě buď tam prochází signál nebo ne. Optoswitch má +, - a signál, jak již psali ostatní výš. Takže - zapoj do - (Gnd na desce), + do zdroje +5V na tvojí desce a signál tam, kde si měl předtim + z mechanickýho switche. Konkrétní zapojení záleží na desce, kterou používáš...

by Matouš - Elektronika

Re: Holes smaller than they should be - 13 years ago

I'm sorry, I have been on a vacation this week, so I coudn't have answered. The problem with holes having too many vertices (too detailed meshes = stl models) can be fixed in a 3D CAD program, such as Rhinoceros CAD or something similar, which can save and edit stl files and meshes. You may find many lighter and free alternatives to Rhinoceros. In the CAD you must reduce the level of detail on th

by Matouš - Printing

Re: Holes smaller than they should be - 13 years ago

OK, I have tried several different settings and for my 0,5mm nozzle with 3mm fillament I have been able to reduce hole shrinkage from approx. 1mm to about 0,2mm on circle holes and no shrinkage on square holes. I will try compensating the remaining 0,2mm with the Stretch function. The problem was too wide lines of plastic and too detailed meshes causing firmware chokage, as you implied. I have re

by Matouš - Printing

Re: Holes smaller than they should be - 13 years ago

Oh thank you for your answer! So you say that thinner lines of plastic make the holes shrink more? Or do I not understand you correctly? I measured some of the hole outlines and you were right, they seem wider even by a naked eye, so I'm probably exporting the models too detailed from my CAM, choking the firmware, right? I am not using multiple outlines, but if I would, how can I tell Skeinforg

by Matouš - Printing

Holes smaller than they should be - 13 years ago

Hello! I found some questions like this already, but was not satisfied with the answers, so I hope it's OK to ask again... The thing is, obviously, that my holes are way smaller, than they should be (a 6mm hole comes out as a 5mm one). My outer perimeters are nearing perfection as far as I can tell (perimeter test blocks fit precisely), so I think I have the flowrate and stuff calibrated quite

by Matouš - Printing

Re: Prints leaning to side - 13 years ago

I am sorry, I have probably not expressed myself properly. The prints are not leaning from the vertical, but from the horizontal Y axis. The right angles of the cubes are not right. But I hope I have solved this problem already as I realized that I forgot to put the X axis precisely in the middle of my Max, so the angle included by the Y and X axes is not right, therefore the prints are not right

by Matouš - Printing

Prints leaning to side - 13 years ago

Well... I'm still calibrating my new MendelMax and aside from other minor problems, I have this leaning problem. All of my prints are leaning to one side. My setup: Arduino Mega 2560 with RAMPS1.3 Sprinter Skeinforge Repetier-Host all driving a MendelMax I have tried trimming the potentiometer on the Pololu drivers, following some tutorials (I tried this like thoudand times...), tighte

by Matouš - Printing