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Printing issues ...
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Thank you, I will look at the throat and try to clear
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kickinthethroat
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Printing
pic
Hopefully that url works...
I've been having this issue for awhile, but not sure of cause. I would love any and all thoughts please.
I'm using t2.5 for my timing belts, which I hear is rather out of date and should be upgraded... Not sure if that could be the cause here?
Thank you all
by
kickinthethroat
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Printing
Hey all, looking for some suggestions...
I currently have a prusa i2 I built long ago... It works but it doesn't quite have the print quality I would like. I'm looking for a more stable build (metal?) with bed leveling and more modern features. It will mostly be used to print toys and random models.
Any ideas for a kit in the $200 range? I've heard of the P3metal, but it seems no kits from USA
by
kickinthethroat
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General
Thank you so much, that is exactly what I was hoping for! Just ordered some
by
kickinthethroat
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Reprappers
Hey all,
So, long story short not as long...
I have a prusa i2. I got tired of using the printed 'bearing guide' for my idler pulleys... as they would always crack and break.
I converted to using the bearings themselves, with 2 large washers on either side, to keep the belt on. This works somewhat ok... but I'm wanting to make it better.
I've been trying to find nice/metal 8mm bore idler pu
by
kickinthethroat
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Reprappers
Hello all!
I'm selling a Prusa Mendel i2 I built about 1.5-2 years ago. It was fully working, but lately the layers have started to come apart mid print and I haven't had time to troubleshoot... plus with a kid on the way now I'm thinking its best to just sell it. I'm selling AS-IS. All parts are assembled and all motors, drivers, electronics, etc are working. Also including some printed spool
by
kickinthethroat
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For Sale
Hello all!
A few years ago, I built my prusa i2, which was working for a few months before it decided to mysteriously stop keeping layer cohesion after the first few layers...
Anyway, I'm now looking into building a DLP Resin printer, hopefully, using as many parts from the Prusa i2 that I can.
It seems that its kind of early in DLP Printer development, but I have found this and this list.
by
kickinthethroat
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Reprappers
Maxx Mayhem Wrote:
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> There is an all metal extruder now available, but
> do you have a fan to cool your upper part of your
> nozzle. When you retract, if the upper nozzle is
> too hot, it will prematurely melt your filiment
> and could cause the issue you are having.
Thank you so much for this info. I do not have a fan, and
by
kickinthethroat
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Reprappers
Yes! That's very similar to me before today... I would have to tighten the coupler until the springs were completely compressed then it would go OK (maybe 2 print attempts total). Today though, I had it so tight the stepper motor was skipping.. So maybe I do have a clog?
I'm thinking about getting a new extruder plastic part... My nut locks are all stripped on the one I have and the nuts someti
by
kickinthethroat
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Reprappers
Maxx Mayhem Wrote:
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> Have you checked that your nozzle is not clogged?
Thanks for the reply.
Well it does ooze out some before it becomes hard to push. I assume if it was clogged, I wouldn't be able to get any of it to come out?
by
kickinthethroat
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Reprappers
I took off the hobbed bolt and it still requires a lot of force to get a constant flow. I push the filament in with some resistance, get a little flow, but then pushing on it really hard creates no additional flow. Any suggestions?
by
kickinthethroat
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Reprappers
Hey all,
I just want to know how much force is normally needed to push a 3mm filament through a .4mm nozzle? I'm using ABS, and it seems like the force required is excessive... turned up the heater to 240C, and it still requires a lot of force.
by
kickinthethroat
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Reprappers
Thanks all! I'd just like to report that the xbox power brick works GREAT. It also looks very tidy and neat.
by
kickinthethroat
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Reprappers
Thanks for the help. I had a case fan hooked up, but same issue. I'll take a look at that link... I'm thinking about just powering the bed from a spare xbox power brick I have laying around, and leaving the rest to the psu. Our maybe use the power brick only?
The power brick is 12v 16.5 amps. .. That should work for everything, and be more stable than the atx psu right?
by
kickinthethroat
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Reprappers
Hey all, here's the story... please help, I'm stuck, thanks!
I am using a Cooler Master 500 watt PSU, 12V1 rated at 16amps, and 12V2 rated at 16amps.
If the USB is connected, and the PSU is on, and then I try to turn on the heated bed with pronterface, the PSU shuts off.
If the USB is connected and I turn the heated bed on with pronterface, THEN turn on the PSU... the heated bed turns on fin
by
kickinthethroat
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Reprappers
Hello, I used 2 extra belt clamps on my Y-axis, so I need 2 more. I need the i2 belt clamps for a T2.5 belt. As seen here
Depending on additional price, I may want 4 more, so I can have some extra. Let me know price please, I am in Illinois, USA. Thanks!
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kickinthethroat
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Wanted
So I'm thinking bolts with nuts (instead of screws), to get more of the clamping action on the belt clamps. Then I can use the nuts on the top side to adjust the heat bed to level, if it's not already. I just need to get some M3 bolts longer than 20mm (SAE equivalent?)
by
kickinthethroat
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Reprappers
Hello all, this is my first post, but I've been at work on my prusa I2 for a few weeks now, off and on.
I am attempting to connect the print plate to the Y belt, and I have some questions. First, my smooth rods are above the threaded rods, and I am using the 1 print plate only, as described in I2 threads.
I've attached some pictures of my setup, since one belt clamp fits in between the print p
by
kickinthethroat
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Reprappers