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Printing issues ...
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Just to make sure, are you using the standard:
G28 X0 Y0
G29
for starting g-code?
by
isonoob
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General
Everyone starts off printing pretty much lumps of poop at some point. Just have to dial in the settings! Wish I took pictures of my failed prints, they were pretty bad, be ready to have a whole bunch of failed prints, lumps of poop, balls of stringy filament etc.
Stay with it, keep fine tuning and eventually you'll get great prints!
by
isonoob
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Prusa i3 and variants
if your bed can only get to around 90 degrees celcius comfortably, that's good enough to get an ABS print sticking with additional bed adhesives. I find little difference between 90 to 100 tbh. If you're having trouble getting a part to stick, try putting down blue painters tape on the bed and rubbing a glue stick on the top of the blue tape, dont need much glue.
by
isonoob
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Prusa i3 and variants
Gannicus,
If your nozzle is not going down, your z limit switch may not be configured properly, i havent read the whole thread, so I'm not sure what state your printer is in, but if you move the Z-Axis up manually 10mm and then tell it to home and it doesnt move, your Z endstop may be giving out a "TRIGGERED" command. Send in an M119 command to check the status of your endstops. They should all
by
isonoob
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteGannicus
Thanks guys...I've calmed myself...and will really crack down on this this weekend to get it running once and for all.
I just wish there was some way to really pick your brains. A web forum takes too long to get replies etc. LOL
I know the issue now is that I don't know how to use the software. I know that.
It's all software issues at this point. I don't get why all four of those p
by
isonoob
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotedave3d
Explains why my prints are often crap.
XD
by
isonoob
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General
If this is to actuate on the bed, it wouldn't work since you don't want anything to be at a lower point than the nozzle
by
isonoob
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General
Ive always wondered, how can we make printing PLA smell as bad as ABS
by
isonoob
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General
what software are you using? I know with repetier, ive seen some firmware versions require a line number preprended to a command and a checksum appended to the end. Try using repetier host to interface with it, see if you have any luck. Also check your hot end for damage, 700c is pretty high, if it really got there, probably did some damage
by
isonoob
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General
Not sure why disruptivetech is being so hostile...
I always try to find stuff that ships within my country if that helps. try looking around for us based companies (for some reason in my head I made the assumption you're based in the US) such as Makerworks, makergear, makerfarm, can't remember them all off the top of my head, but htere are a ton out there, maybe some others can chime in.
best
by
isonoob
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General
It doesn't necessarily render hot ends useless, but rather clog a hot end which can be a pain to unclog. Ive had clogs a couple times with poor filament myself, but nothing that wasn't fixable
by
isonoob
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General
it's not a myth...
by
isonoob
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General
doh! guess my views on bed leveling probe aren't so popular! probably why the shift towards manufacturers including them is happnening... Maybe ill dust off the ole induction probe and give it another chance
by
isonoob
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General
I grabbed a ton of rolls from microcenter, they often sell the toner plastics randomly for 14.99 without advertising it on their website. Not getting any issues so far with it (knock on wood). IMO the quality stuff is UltiMachine plastic, have always been a huge fan, but you just cant beat the price of the microcenter filament.
by
isonoob
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General
Anyone else agree? Recent put together a PrintrBot Simple Maker Edition kit that didn't come with a bed leveling probe, then purchased the upgrade kit for it and put a bed leveling probe in. Few days later, ditched the probe. Nothing beats a leveled bed thoughts? Is this a universal opinion or am is the inverse popularly agreed upon? I see a bunch of printers coming out now with bed leveling pro
by
isonoob
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General
are your z steps in the firmware calibrated properly
by
isonoob
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Printing
I started out using Slic3r and Pronterface combo, was not a bad way to go imo
by
isonoob
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General
what firmware does the duet run? If it's standard Marlin or Repetier, it'll work
by
isonoob
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Controllers
the settings found in the g-code tab for origin and origin offset override those settings found in tools - options - machine, IF the Update Machine Settings checkbox is checked.
I usually keep the checkbox checked and use the correct settings in the g-code tab. This means you should have your build volume 200x200x200 and then origin offset 100x100x0. this will do what u want
also i have found so
by
isonoob
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General
Just a question, why are you using linux if you don't have no experience with it?
You could also try running Repetier Host, it may work for you. You will have to run it's dependency and configure scripts first.
by
isonoob
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General
ahhhh I read it incorrectly, my bad!
by
isonoob
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General
QuoteSam Groll
Robotdigg looks like a great site, I will certainly look through there when I compare sources. thanks gmh39.
We are going to make Prusa i3s however I think some students are making some different innovative designs (ie a box 3D printer)
Pm recieved and sent PTB
ggherbaz, that is what I hope many students will do more after they build this to get started (it is a cheap entry leve
by
isonoob
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General
What type of printer/electronics board are you running? Do you see the correct COM port in the ports section of pronterface? Have you installed the proper drivers for your board?
by
isonoob
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General
can u take a screenshot of pronterface on connection? When you ocnnect with protnerface, the printer should spit out some communication to pronterface which u can see
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isonoob
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General
AJet,
just to clarify, are you able to connect and control the printer via pronterface/repetier host?
by
isonoob
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General
QuoteAJET69
hi donandi,
were you able to resolve your connection issue with Simplify3d?
I have the exact same issue and can't find a solution for it.
I have a Mendel90, running Marlin 1.0.0 RC2
Simplify3D suggested I install Teensyduino 1.20 for a better USB support via Arduino (I 'm using 1.0.6).
So I have installed Teenyduino in my Arduino, recompiled and uploaded Marlin, power cycled the pr
by
isonoob
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General
i wouldn't say it's superior, it's a good hot end though.
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isonoob
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General
just an update, received my printer today! Made some minor hardware adjustments and got it printing.
by
isonoob
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General
Quoteportabee
Hello All,
So! Sincere apologies, we have been very busy with email, and quite a bit late on our current batch of shipments.
Everything is going smoothly, and we will ship out these machines in the coming weeks.
Apologies for the long delays! We have been engineering on the fly, and this has lead to some manufacturing delays.
Ok,
Thanks and we look forward to delivering your
by
isonoob
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General
Im a big fan of Simplify3D, love the features and interface. I've used kisslicer, cura, and slic3r, got the best results using s3d personally. imo, worth the $140
by
isonoob
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Printing
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