Show all posts by user

Re: The printer nozzle starts at z=10mm - 5 years ago

Thanks for trying that! I was thinking that i've tried that as well, but maybe it was with a different version of marlin/setup in all my troubleshooting attempts. I'll give it a shot and see if it helps. Thank you for your advice!

by cbearden - Printing

Re: The printer nozzle starts at z=10mm - 5 years ago

That's what I thought too. I changed this to M206 Z0, but it didn't seem to make any difference. This morning, I was able to dink around with some settings and I got my nozzle to touch the bed after homing with this in my start gcode: G1 Z-1 G92 Z0 G1 Z-1 G92 Z0 I had to do this twice in Cura, otherwise it wouldn't work. this ends up being too close to the bed after homing, but at least I'm gett

by cbearden - Printing

Re: The printer nozzle starts at z=10mm - 5 years ago

And here's what my eeprom has stored. SENDING:M501 echotored settings retrieved echoteps per unit: echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z80.00 E85.00 echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s): echo: M203 X250.00 Y250.00 Z70.00 E50.00 echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2): echo: M201 X6000 Y6000 Z2000 E10000 echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration echo: M204 S3000.00 T3000.00 echo:Advanced variables: S=M

by cbearden - Printing

Re: The printer nozzle starts at z=10mm - 5 years ago

I thought it was the z offset in eeprom as well. i've reset the eeprom back to factory defaults. And i've set the z offset setting in firmware to different numbers, including 0. i've attached my config file. i'm running marlin (smartcore-master) mk7. Heres a video of my homing problem: smartrapcore homing issue If I tell pronterface to move the bed up (z -2mm), it will just touch the nozzle. Th

by cbearden - Printing

Re: MAXTEMP error at startup - 5 years ago

I saw this happen on my printer before when I was first configuring the firmware. I had the wrong temp sensor. Once I picked the correct sensor type, the temp registered good after that.

by cbearden - Printing

Re: The printer nozzle starts at z=10mm - 5 years ago

I don't know if this helps any, but after reading many many posts about this issue... I tried using G92 Z0 after I was touching the nozzle. But then once I did G28 again, it would go right back to what it was before, 2mm away from nozzle.

by cbearden - Printing

Re: The printer nozzle starts at z=10mm - 5 years ago

I had remembered my settings wrong. After I rechecked after your suggestion, here's where I'm at. G28 - moves the bed up to the induction probe. it lights up, then lowers down a bit. At that point, it's 2mm away from my nozzle. My lcd screen shows Z -3mm. And M114 also shows Z -3. if I then use pronterface, (Z -1) I'll be just touching my nozzle. And then M114 will read z -5.

by cbearden - Printing

Re: The printer nozzle starts at z=10mm - 5 years ago

I have this same problem, with my Z starting at 5mm below my nozzle. I have a corexy printer, the bed moves down as it prints from top down. I've adjusted my firmware z offset settings to 0. I've cleared my eeprom out to factory defaults. But I still can't print with this issue. If anyone has some more ideas on this, it would be much appreciated!

by cbearden - Printing

Re: Raspberry Pi i3??? - 6 years ago

apparently this is possible, according to this article: [3dprintboard.com]

by cbearden - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: how to run wiring for my heated bed? - 6 years ago

Thanks for the info and the pic JM. They were awesome to help me understand how this needs to be wired. I will try your suggestions and hopfully get my printer build finished up. Much appreciated!! -Chris

by cbearden - Smart_Rap

how to run wiring for my heated bed? - 6 years ago

Hi everyone. Thanks for all of your posts/builds on the smartrapcore. I've been working on my build and have hit a roadblock. How has everyone been running their wires for the heated bed to the electronics? I'm just not sure how to attach them to the platform so they won't get in the way, but also won't cause the wires to flex too much. I've included pics. And my wiring comes out where I drew the

by cbearden - Smart_Rap

Re: MOD for 1 mm extruder nozzle - You'll want one! - 6 years ago

This may be an old thread, but thank you for posting this info! I've been working on my 1mm nozzle, trying to get it to keep from extruding too much plastic. I calibrated my e-steps, measured my filament in multiple places and still have trouble with too much plastic. it was to the point that my nozzle was dragging through the previous printed line right next to it because it was too wide. some o

by cbearden - Developers

Re: Z lifing too much when I click run job - 8 years ago

I think I figured this out. I was trying to print the 5mm calibration cube from Thingiverse. And I noticed that the Translation Z was set to 10, but it wouldn't let me change it without going below the print bed. I loaded a different calibration cube and it settled on Z 0 with no problem. maybe this will help someone else starting out with this. Thanks.

by cbearden - Repetier

Z lifing too much when I click run job - 8 years ago

Working on my first print. After I calibrated my z axis, I click on run job, everything moves to home position correctly. Then, my Z lifts up to about 1-2" above my bed. I checked in the slicer config and lift is set to 0. Any suggestions as to what could cause this? Thank you.

by cbearden - Repetier

Re: E Axis Jitter/Whine - Faulty Stepper Driver? - 8 years ago

Did you ever get your problem solved? I'm having a similar problem with my extruder motor as well. but yet it also runs fine on another axis.

by cbearden - Reprappers

Re: New Ramps, Motors wont move - 8 years ago

alec, Thanks for posting this. I'm having the same problem with my motors making strange sounds as well. I'll try changing my settings in pronterface and see if that helps my problem.

by cbearden - RAMPS Electronics

Re: need help with strange motor sounds - 8 years ago

Also, I'm using a wade extruder, so I'm thinking this value of 515.91048 might be correct. But I'm just not sure what value I need to use in the pronterface GUI for the speed mm/min value?

by cbearden - General

Re: need help with strange motor sounds - 8 years ago

Good news! I feel like I'm a lot closer to solving this. I was able to get my X,Y axis motors to turn decent by adjusting my axis_step_per_unit values in the configuration.h file. I changed X and Y from 700 to 84, and that seemed to help quite a bit. Then I moved onto my E value. I tried all sorts of values in pronterface with M92 E700 M92 E70 M92 E2000 M92 E1500 all values either made a very lo

by cbearden - General

Re: need help with strange motor sounds - 8 years ago

I tried swapping the A wires, my two wires connected in the middle of my pololus, hooked it to the extruder driver and clicked extrude 1mm. I heard a quick click out of the motor, with no movement. And after that I couldn't get any more movement from it with additional extrude commands until I reset all of the power, usb connections, etc. Then I switched the A wires back and then was able to get

by cbearden - General

Re: need help with strange motor sounds - 8 years ago

Here are my config files you asked about. The odd thing about my shaking motors is that: 1. I can move any of the wire connectors onto the Z: connector on my board and they'll start working smoothly, no problems. 2. a couple of times, I've seen the motors initially turn smoothly and then all of a sudden go to studdering/shaking while in the middle of a printerface command. Do you think my power s

by cbearden - General

need help with strange motor sounds - 8 years ago

Hi. I've been troubleshooting this problem off and on for weeks now. And it's finally got me stumped. I've got a Sanguinololu 1.3a board with ATmega 1284p chip and sprinter firmware. Running with Pololus drivers and Nema 17 stepper motors. Running a PC power supply with 500 watts. All of my X, Y and Extruder motors act like the videos I posted for jitter1 and jitter2. Only the Z motor runs good,

by cbearden - General

Re: Burning Sanguino bootloader onto 1284p onboard using arduino mega - 9 years ago

After spending quite a bit of time on this, I finally followed these instructions/code and burned a bootloader onto my AT Mega 1284P-PU chip. I used an Arduino Uno as the ISP. I followed all of the same wiring, except I used a 16Mhz crystal with (2) 22pf capacitors. Instructions: Arduino 1.01 software: And this code of Sanguino: copied Sanguino code into the /arduino-1.0.1/hardware folder.

by cbearden - Sanguino(lolu)

Re: Sanguino v1.0 bootloader frustration (with much detail!) [SOLVED] - 9 years ago

lol. found this on another site while searching for this: good caps, but they're labeled 104 ... which is 100nf instead of the 20-20pf that I should be using. Yes putting that value of cap on a crystal is killing it. I bet it works the same without the crystal. "So are you surprised using a capacitor 5000 times too big won't work." Too funny.... This person posted their answer about this. and app

by cbearden - Controllers

Re: Sanguino v1.0 bootloader frustration (with much detail!) [SOLVED] - 9 years ago

I'm having this same problem with trying to install a bootloader onto my newly built Sanguino using a ATmega1284P chip. However, I didn't have a resonator to use with my Sanguino 1.3a pcb build, so I used a 16Mhz crytal in its place. After reading this, I'm wondering if I would solve my problem by soldering in two 22pF ceramic disc caps along with the crystal to make things work?

by cbearden - Controllers