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Printing issues ...
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I'm going to speculate the magic setting was the filament run out detection.
I got a mini for around $200 and here I am at this post for the same reason.
It seems like it can be a nice printer if only it gets decrapified.
by
redsalamander
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General
I use T2,5 belts on my large 3D printer and acuracy is very good. I do however run 2 belts with a 8mm shaft connecting the pulleys to ensure the gantry stays square.
Your problem is more than likely going to be the belt skipping teeth on a cnc as soon as there is resistance on the cutting head, that may be preferable to no give and a broken bit but it could still be a pain.
For the play in the
by
redsalamander
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Mechanics
PLA - Glass build plate heated to 48'C coated with hairspray every couple of prints.
I find if I leave large prints over night it can release during the print at some point when it gets cold so temp can be a problem but usually not.
Sometimes parts stick so much you have to knock them off with something, a small rod or something will usually do it, however when the glass cools down it will usuall
by
redsalamander
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Mechanics
If they simply regulated the rampant sale of unlicenced nails it would also put a stop to it, oh wait dont they do that with bullets?
by
redsalamander
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General
Ok I have to vent about this.
It took almost 6 months and I presume enough potential controversy in the US to have the episode shot in London but there is was. He quickly printed a plastic gun shot his wife and disolved the gun in accetone in a few minutes before the cops showed up. Luckily a secret organisation tracks the sale of all 3D printers and resulted in revealing the smoking hot end.
by
redsalamander
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General
Sifting through posts Ive seen one thing I've not checked is the actual temp of my hotend. I've trusted that I have the thermistor running correctly but how can I be sure it is? I'm fairly fortunate in that I have a laser thermometer, but readings from there are very irratic so im not convinced im getting the correct temp reading from there and it does seem to be within 10% of where it says it sh
by
redsalamander
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Printing
My printhead jams up like clockwork after about 45 minutes.
What it seems to be doing is in the gap around the filament in the hot end fills up around the filament. As the liquid filament gets to the top it solidifies and locks up the print head.
Can anyone shed some light on the theory of adjustments to get rid of this problem.
It does not seem to happen as badly with ABS as ot does with PL
by
redsalamander
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Printing
My prints have for the lack of a better description a surface texture that I can best describe as the same apearance as chinese shrimp chips
My suspicion is im printing to hot but if I cool it down my extruder jams up. My extruder jams up faster about 45 minutes anyway skips a layer leaving a weak layer that my print breaks on after done,
by
redsalamander
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Printing
tmorris9 Wrote:
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> It's in that thread but here is a direct link
>
Well I feel alot better about my printer right now!
by
redsalamander
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General
One thing that cannot be denied is that Cody Wilson put 3D printing in every person's radar.
I think anyone dumb enough to fire one of these things printed at home will have a great chance of ending up on the darwin awards list top ten.
by
redsalamander
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General
Cura has a nice interface that gives you time to print, weight and length used.Seems acurate. I left a print running and measured the distance it said it would require and it pretty much used the amount it said.
Cura I find a little easier to use from a beginer pov slic3r does alot more I also used kiss slicer but there are some limits in the free version.
by
redsalamander
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General
Only way to see is pull one out of a printer and see.
I think there may be a problem in that residue from the filament will coat the rubber more than the rubber wearing out.
It's similar to the cause requiring replacement on the pickup roller.
by
redsalamander
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General
So yesterday I printed a OK herringbone drive gear, it seems if you do your own printer you spend most time printing upgrades (funny that)
Tweaking things at one does and then it seems I clogged the tip of my extruder, I had among other things tried to adjust the feed tube between the cooling block and the hotend on my qu-bd extruder in an attempt to stop it from locking up after 45 minutes, as
by
redsalamander
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General
For problem no 1
You need to set your steps per mm in your firmware.
I use sprinter so can tell you what I did there.
Under your configuration file you will find this section
You need to figure out how many steps it takes to move 1mm and put that in the relevant section
below it takes 25 steps to move 1mm on X / 25 on Y / 100 on Z and 105.4 steps per mm of filament.
if you move the x axiz 1
by
redsalamander
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Printing
I have been using double sided tape. Not the sponge type were used to but one thats like like cellotape but double sided.
It sticks to my unheated bed and the initial sticky surface sticks like crazy but is easy enought to pull off. after a few days it seems there is a coating of PLA on the tape allowing it to if anything stick more.
by
redsalamander
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General
I found this post
he seems to have had the exact oposite problem I was having
It did not ucur to me to go back to the sketch
I changes the Acceleration settings to
_MAX_XY_JERK from 20.0 to 8.0
Also max acceleration units per sq second from 5000,5000,50,5000 changed to 1000,1000,10,1000
Seems to have done the trick. will pring a couple more things to see.
by
redsalamander
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Printing
I am going mad !!!
My machine prints fine as long as I my prints move linear. (includes 45' for infill)
As soon as my print includes a radius it goes off course. Example attached.
First the printer structure XY moves on a fixed plane and the Z moves up and down Picture attached
What I have tried to fix this is
Current from drivers started with 0.4 as base line and actually tried higher and
by
redsalamander
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Printing