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Printing issues ...
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Quotethe_digital_dentist. I don't think ebay will allow them to be sold because they are considered medical devices. that's maybe why I could not find them. Thanks for the extra info.
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Frans@France
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General
Thank you!
From what I understand is that it might be worthwhile to investigate the influence of the shape of the "melting chamber" on the result? Could it be that even the entry angle of the filament into the melting chamber has an influence? Like what would happen if that entry is off-center making it whirl more? Just thinking out loud here
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Frans@France
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Developers
Quotethe_digital_dentistCPAP machines use turbine type blowers with brushless DC motors. Is it something like this ? or much stronger?
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Frans@France
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General
Very nice work! I like the mixing motor, does it not interfere however with the x/y motion the faster it turns (inertia) ?
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Frans@France
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Developers
Printed a black ABS fuel tank cap for a lawnmower, believe it's on it for almost 2 years now. The lawnmower sits outdoor, cap still looks like it was printed yesterday.
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Frans@France
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General
QuoteolisoftDo you plan to publish all the files (also with firmware and schematics)? Not everything is released yet as it is still a project in progress and certain parts are not correct or finished yet. For example the enclosure for the electronics is not finished and the firmware has a bug in the temperature auto-tune routine.
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Frans@France
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Look what I made!
Geen idee de hoeveelste prototype dit is maar deze verticale vorm gaat nu al een tijdje mee
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Frans@France
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Projecten
Changing the Lyman/Mullier into a faster and easier to use extruder, also trying to make it cheaper then the original Lyman. Tested it at speeds till 3000mm/min or 10 feet/min for 3.00mm filament, currently around +/-0.2mm but believe that can be improved.
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Frans@France
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Look what I made!
Als hij stopt kan je hem dan nog wel met de software besturen? (home x, 10mm y etc) De oorzaak kan heel veel zijn! Ik had bijv een breuk in de hotend heater cartage waardoor de temp. te laag werd en de print stop. Maar te warm worden van de motor drivers kan het ook veroorzaken. Als je met een pc verbonden bent dan kan die bijv hangen waardoor er geen opdrachten meer naar de printer worden gestuu
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Frans@France
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Electronica
QuoteRP Iron Man
@Frans@France
Here are some up close pics. It was difficult to keep them in focus since I zoomed in so close.
Eric,
Thank you. Looking good!
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Frans@France
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Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
QuotegstrooderThe control loop itself seems to be OK as the PIDs will manage to oscillate +- 5 degrees around the measured temperature at the thermocouple
5? not .5? 5 is way to much, either you have issues with the cooling near the sensor or the PID was not correctly tuned or some changes were made and you forgot to tune the PID again.
Quotegstrooder Unfortunately on the inside of the barrel
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Frans@France
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
ABS needs up to 4 hours to dry according to some datasheets. So I don't think that drying it "on the fly" just before printing will work.
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Frans@France
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General
Quotedeckingman
When E3d were testing their volcano nozzles, they found that parts printed with wider and thicker layers were very much stronger than "normal" layer heights. . I haven't tried it myself.... I did try it after buying a volcano and using the 0.8mm nozzle and they (E3D) were right. The printed parts were stronger. Specially the 100% infill parts are very strong.
by
Frans@France
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General
After looking into it in some more detail I think the problem is/was the led, the setting was "always on" but despite that the led reaches full intensity only after registering the first movements. When I have some time I will re-route the power for the led making sure it's always full on and redo the test.
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Frans@France
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
It could have been easier because I changed the 16mm auger into 19mm for the 3/4 and then later also tested the 20mm auger. Because of that I also had to change the coupler. Because of the larger auger I need more motor power so changed that also etc, never ending story working on it for almost 18 months now...
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Frans@France
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
Quotemakerbro88s it seems the 16mm auger fits good in the brass end tap , but the pipe fitting is too narrow to fit the auger bit....
Should i buy myself a set of tapering stock to cut a winding into a seamless steel barrel? or do i grind the 1/2 inch fitting a little bit? or do i just buy a 3/4 inch pipe?
Maybe some of you encountered similar problems.
Any advice of how to do it, or not to do
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Frans@France
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
This reply below is based on my experience with filament extruders:
You can not use the spools. You need rollers that will not slip or skip steps otherwise you will get inconsistent width. From the feed side you might need multiple rollers to counter slippage. The filaments needs to be cold enough before reaching the puller rollers otherwise the puller will flatten the filament. As mentioned yo
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Frans@France
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General
If you need custom filament imho it's easier and cheaper to start from pellets and use a extruder.
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Frans@France
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General
Never tried it but don't think it will work. There is a thread on this forum somewhere where someone build a 3mm to 1.75mm filament converter. He used a nozzle Can't find the thread but did find this
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Frans@France
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General
Peachy has 50,000 dollars more then the kickstarter produced! So there was no reason at all to not being able to deliver! However they gave themselves a nice wage and when all the money was really gone they released all this "theft" nonsense as an excuse for not being able to deliver.
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Frans@France
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General
Still very strange story because on
" Roe had stolen and spent $324,716.01 of Peachy Printer’s money for his own personal use."
"Roe has apparently repaid roughly $107,000, less than half"
and
[3dprint.com]
" all of the Kickstarter funds — $587,435.73 worth "
" he pursued additional funding, including a $50,000 "
and
"Peachy Printer received two government grants totalling $90,000 and $135
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Frans@France
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General
QuoteVDX
... this sort of paterns could be caused by regular speed variaton/fluctuation of the extruder-motor or by a not concentric hobbed bolt ... but it doesn't show on the bottom of the orange cube. Might be that if the same pattern is now visible on the lower part of a new print of that same object and it was a temp. test like the blue cube next to it I would say that something broke or disp
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Frans@France
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Printing
crimp up between bolt and extruder normally is a sign there is to much space between the two, The entry has to be as close as possible to the bolt. The filament getting stuck could point to either the tension of the idler is not being high enough or there is a small section of the filament that is larger then the ID of the hotend
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Frans@France
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Printing
QuoteElmoC
Do you really need to use ABS? PETG has about the same strength properties without the warping issue ABS has. Someone had the same "fun" with PETG as with ABS
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Frans@France
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General
wat is "een rondje maken"
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Frans@France
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Projecten
if you would include a photo of how you assembled it it's easier to help. But my guess is that you need to put one screw in the spring, the head of that screw is compressed by the screw in the tensioner arm and the other screw need to hold the spring together with the motor mount block. Image 1,3,4,5 on the ebay page shows the installation.
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Frans@France
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General
with screen you mean LCD? Did you set the correct LCD in your configuration.h?
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Frans@France
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General
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