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Printing issues ...
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Anyone tried?
Any reason not to? Any reason to do it?
Stepper drivers and steppers itself are relatively cheap for Nema17s, and i was just wondering if someone tried this and if there was any benefit to be had. Apart doubling torque that is.
by
PulsedMedia
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CoreXY Machines
If putting together a kit for sale it comes down to volume.
Get 1 wheel it's 4.95$
Get 10 wheels it's 4.50$ a piece
Get 1000 wheels and it's 2$ a piece
by
PulsedMedia
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Mechanics
Guys Guys! Stop the hate, be positive!
I find it kinda ironic that on reprap M3s are so popular but they cost more than M4s
M4s you get by the kilo, here it is usually about 6€ per kilo, but M3s by the piece 0.10-0.5€ a piece
And since no one stocks them had to online order, so 100x short M3s + nuts cost me more than couple kilos of M4s -.-
If the driving force was to get price down, why us
by
PulsedMedia
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Mechanics
Quoterowow
Ah right, the good ol drill lathe Ill have to see if I have any drills with a 1" chuck, otherwise ill have to go with smaller wheels, which aren't an issue, but means ill have to go with a slight different path. But before I even do that ill do the 3d printing and sanding, and hopefully that works.
Maybe instead of ordering plastic rod, I could just make it from recycled HDPE. Ive nev
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PulsedMedia
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Mechanics
3d printed wheels: File & sand them by hand if you need to, lower wheels spring tensioned.
But you are correct, won't be the most precise around, but hey, you never know before you try, right?
For lathe:
As it's just a v-groove, you could take a power drill, and make a custom cutting bit to make the groove. I think it does not matter if each wheel is exactly the same, as long as it doesn'
by
PulsedMedia
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Mechanics
Someone else just built a corexy printer and was not happy with metal wheels because it wears out the aluminium, and your tolerances get whacked, basicly the material becomes thinner on the most used section.
But that's just what i read.
Cheapest wheels would be getting cheap ABEC 9 608zz, and printing the V-groove section
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PulsedMedia
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Mechanics
CoreXY takes barely anymore space than gantry would, it's a cube sized 10-25cm larger than print volume
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PulsedMedia
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Mechanics
Ìf you go gantry design, do not expect to exceed much beyond 30mm/s and prep for ultra long prints.
It's inherent characteristic of the design, you need to use gigantic parts (which yours are not) to make it sturdy, and then you'd have extremely low accelerations due to the weight.
Basicly the gantry is a huge lever, at the end of which you most of your weight.
Even the i3 design is sturdier t
by
PulsedMedia
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Mechanics
I hope you are planning for the bed to move only on Z despite the looks of it.
Gantry designs work only for slow moving due to the inherent wobblyness.
CoreXY is simple enough to make
by
PulsedMedia
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Mechanics
36mm auger, and i think it was 37.5mm ID of the pipe, so a bit loose, but so is the filastruder version too with much smaller auger!
So the tolerance is about the same or a bit less than filastruder version, but relatively much much less because of the larger size.
I was thinking i will slightly shrink the tube at the end as well to create smaller tolerance, but since it's welded pipe it has ins
by
PulsedMedia
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Mechanics
Actually it's about 1€ = 1.03$ or so right now.
Oh for cheapest material i just saw was it LDPE for 0.75€/kg here lol
Oh with pulling you don't build up huge pressure inside the melt zone! So wiper motor will be plenty
Actually the pressure should in any case go down with larger nozzle, easier to flow through.
by
PulsedMedia
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Mechanics
Pellets are so cheap so that i haven't bothered.
I can get pellets locally on 25kg bags at 3 to 9€ per kilo depending on the material.
Tho, those are huge amounts, so now i'm seeing if i should source some cheap spools and start selling this stuff because, well having to stock at least 4 different materials -> using 100kg for me is going to take some 4 years lol
That would allow me to offset
by
PulsedMedia
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Mechanics
I'm afraid blue tape would just peel off. Nylon has intensely strong warp, it's less than ABS but the force generated is much much larger.
Hell i just kinda ruined 4x 150gr prints because nylon was peeling off the raft at 0,22mm gap -.-
The measurements were important, but i'll try to fix by drilling and sanding. These were the mirrored half of the large printer corner supports.
I made half of
by
PulsedMedia
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Mechanics
Quoteo_lampe
QuotePulsedMedia
80mm pulley with 1/8 steps would give 50micron positional resolution @ max speed of 1600mm/sec. That's still 10s+ to go from end to end ...
So your printer is 16meters long?! 1600mm/s *10s = 16m
Just kidding, I love your pragmatic approach, although I'd do the heating differently.
-Olaf
Oh you are correct Tho acceleration etc, can't jerk to 1600mm/s
Oh we will
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PulsedMedia
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Mechanics
Thanks for linking!
Haven't purchased via Alibaba before, this will be new experience
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PulsedMedia
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General
I checked out the FB page.
Mind linking to from where on China?
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PulsedMedia
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General
To the naysayers on this thread too, check this out: [3dprintingindustry.com]
With the kind of thinking these naysayers have "can't do withou 100x the money!" etc. tell it to that guy! This guy did huge volume for peanuts successfully.
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PulsedMedia
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Mechanics
Quoterowow
Wow, thanks PulsedMedia! actual advice and help!
And have you heard of v slotted aluminum extrusions? I dont know how much you got your 22mm rods but a 1.5m stick from openbuilds costed me $15. Plus they are modular and really strong, so no 3d printed parts for the corners. The most expensive part is the wheels though, they cost 80$ for a set of 20, and you need 4 for each rail system
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PulsedMedia
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Mechanics
Nice! Where do you get that PA6+30% CF and how much does it cost?
Any chance of good overall pictures of the machine? I'm working on a large machine as well and would like to make comparisons.
You need really strong motor to push pellets thru extruder at exactly the pace you need, capable of doing probably like 2-4Nm @ 120RPM or something of the sort, but it also needs to be able to go quick for
by
PulsedMedia
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General
Quotebiskero
Ciao,
here more videos from those guys.
The results seems decent.
About your point:
1 - weight, it depends on implementation, pellets holder should not be on the extruder
2 - retraction is a problem
3 - not sure what you mean, pls explain
4 - since my print job is huge, filaments are an issue, that's why want to try pellets, you fill 3 or 4kg and forget it
My extruder design is 18
by
PulsedMedia
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General
moisture in filament, loose belts or other backlash in drive, hotend moves freely.
Those are the most likely ones.
by
PulsedMedia
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General
regular glass works just fine and is cheap. Albeit, with good enough sticking parts it's easy to break one when prying the part off.
by
PulsedMedia
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General
Use wooden base, something like 16mm thick ought to do it, whatever heating element you choose, and glass on top of it. Ikea sells cheap mirrors you could cut down in size
If using aluminium heatbed @ 4mm, you got a total material thickness of 30mm then, should remain very flat
by
PulsedMedia
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General
Damn. Such a shame.
What was the final price for this at the end if buying from you ready to be put onto a stepper motor set?
Using Nema23s dual shaft on quite a rigid frame and drive train, and potentially prints lasting a week so these would come in handy - if it saves a print even once it has pretty much paid itself back
Tbh, ultimately i'd like to see full closed loop design, such a shame
by
PulsedMedia
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General
That is shame!
There is only a few examples of DC motor closed loop as well, and those are very poorly documented.
Someone should go ahead and demonstrate it simply what are the benefits - such as think about running LONG jobs much faster because you don't have to fear skipped steps as much - it will autocorrect itself.
Or with DC motors you could achieve much greater speeds too from cheap 15$ m
by
PulsedMedia
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General
I am actually doing a similar project.
I am using 16mm and 25mm smooth rods.
25mm for the long X axis, 16mm for Z and Y. Y because it's shorter, and Z being vertical no droop issue here.
LM25UU & LM16UU bearings.
3mm steel wire for CoreXY setup and 8mm threaded rods (again vertical) in each corner to carry the weight of the bed.
Nema23s with TB6600 drivers connected to ramps.
I expect to
by
PulsedMedia
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Mechanics
I am still reading the first page, and i have to say i am disappointed in the reprap community again.
This is the kind of resistance i saw as well when pondering about making a big printer.
With this kind of attitude NOTHING new would ever get developed! It's only a matter of finding out HOW.
How about, instead of telling this guy how this cannot be done (backed up by really weak maths and elect
by
PulsedMedia
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Mechanics
Did this ever became a reality?
If so - where can i get some?
Can it be used with any stepper driver?
I'm building a fairly larger printer, and this would be nice for a week long print
by
PulsedMedia
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General
I am in market for some Nylon PA46 granules.
This is the stuff BMW (and probably other MFGs too) make their intakes.
I'm in market for a few kilos of the stuff, or cheap shredder so i can just buy BMW intakes and recycle that.
Payment via Paypal, shipping either within US or EU, doesn't matter got my contacts to get stuff shipped for cheap from the US
by
PulsedMedia
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Wanted
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