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Re: DRV8825 running Marlin firmware - 9 years ago

It might be tripping on line noise. It happened to me when I was setting up the electrics on the cnc controller (using the A4998 stepsticks) I twisted the motor wires in a 4way plait and helps, along with some old baluns from an inkjet printer I ripped apart for bits. Make sure you also have all your grounds connected to the same rail...not all earths are created equal and can float above and/
by ShaneH - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: Reeltoreel Filament review - 10 years ago

Only tested the blue and black, but planning on getting some more hobby packs over the next few weeks. I've only been in the 3d printing game since Feb this year, so not experienced enough to speculate why I got the blockage, but it's the first I've had to date. For all I know, could have been an error between the seat and the keyboard :-)
by ShaneH - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: Reeltoreel Filament review - 10 years ago

Funny you mention the black pla...had a hell blockage with it yesterday. The infill started to get thinner and perimeters getting scruffy, nek minit....air printing. Ended up having to replace the ptfe in the hotend, heated it up to ABS temp to cook the blockage out and shove some blue pla through it. Re-ran the print with the blue, no problems. Flick them an email and see if they'll do a 3mm
by ShaneH - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: Reeltoreel Filament review - 10 years ago

Hold onto your old reels though, the hobby packs are loose spools, so you'll need something to wind them onto unless you want to babysit your print. And yes...absolutely agree with you on that point.
by ShaneH - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Reeltoreel Filament review - 10 years ago

Just printed off a couple of test pieces using filament from Sandbrooks (http://reeltoreal.co.nz) PLA @ 1.75mm (hobby pack..100gm =~ 33m) So maths says a 1Kg pack =~ 330m(?) Measured at a consistent 1.72mm throughout the sample. My slic3r settings are geared for the PLA filament from DiamondAge which measures 1.65-1.67mm, so I changed the extrusion multiplier to 0.93 (turned out to be a really
by ShaneH - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: Mendel 90 vs Prusa Mendel i3 in NZ? - 10 years ago

I built my Mendel from self sourced parts: Ramps, mega, steppers, headbed, linear bearings and j-head mk5 from eBay. Acrylic sheet from classique plastics on trademe, 550w psu from trademe . Vitamins from the team at makershop. All the printed parts came from a UK mendel owner and arrived on 3 days. Home made hobbed bolt for the wades. I cut the frame with a circular saw and jigsaw, so the edge
by ShaneH - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: Keeping extruder fan on. - 10 years ago

How about custom ending gcode? Keep the fan running for x number of seconds after turning the extruder heater off?
by ShaneH - RAMPS Electronics

Re: Finishing PLA prints - 10 years ago

Disregard.
by ShaneH - General

Re: Verbatim 3D printing filament coming to New Zealand - 10 years ago

$76.78 (price at checkout incl GST and free delivery) for 400m roll of 1.75 is much cheaper than…you-know-who. I may just get some in the next week or so.
by ShaneH - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: add dwell after retraction - 10 years ago

According to the wiki, the G4 gcode is supported. A simple search and replace for retracts and add a newline after it with "G4 P3.2" (for example) will cause a dwell of 3.2 seconds. Modify the P value to suit your needs.
by ShaneH - Slic3r

Re: Mendel 90 (?) build. - 10 years ago

Hans, There's few "gotchas" that I can help with, having built one from self sourced parts..not a kit. Check your pm. Cheers.
by ShaneH - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: Information request, Experiences and Data about FFF/FMD printers - 10 years ago

Stef, Could I suggest that a good look through the many, many posts in this forum will provide you a wealth of research material. You are asking a very small set of questions about a technology that has so many variables. You haven't asked about printer type, filament type and thickness...or supplier, temps used for extrusion and/or build platform, calibration techniques, electronics and softw
by ShaneH - General

Re: CNC / Dremel conversion to mill PCBs? - 10 years ago

Nope...but I turned an inkjet printer into a cnc :-)
by ShaneH - General Mendel Topics

Re: Cutting an object in to pieces to 3d print - 10 years ago

You can't in the non registered version. The solid tools are disabled, and they are the ones you need for splitting/intersecting etc.
by ShaneH - 3D Design tools

Re: heated bed backing - 10 years ago

How about a piece of good old wool blanket? Has an ignition point of 560deg C, easy to get hold of and a proven thermal insulator. Just a thought.
by ShaneH - General

Re: Printing on another print? - 10 years ago

I just finished some work on my cnc machine with pla printed parts, and found that the acrylic solvent Weldon 4 is excellent for gluing pla.
by ShaneH - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)

Re: Help Needed - Sketchup wont substract - 10 years ago

The main block was a solid, but once the first hole was subtracted, the main block became a non-solid and the rest would fail to subtract. The use of the Solid Inspector and Clean-up3 plugins shows where occurring. Check out my vid on creating nuts and bolts to see the plugins in action...
by ShaneH - 3D Design tools

Re: Where to get gear reducers with a flat ratio? - 10 years ago

Not sure what backlash there would be in the gearset, but they list 3d printing as an application use for this option. The drawback is the output rpm of 39mm/min. Unless you set your z height switch at the bed end, it will take about 5 min to move down to the bed. On the plus side...you'll never run into problems with torque...generating 97 nm @ 400mA current draw. :-)
by ShaneH - General

Re: Multiple Rasberry Pis to a Power Supply? - 10 years ago

Depending on what you are doing with the raspberries, you might also consider using power filter capacitors to help smooth out sags or spikes on the rail that could cause reboots or more fatal surges. Are they the raspberry B..or the new B+ that has just come out? I know what I'm asking Mrs Santa for Xmas :-)
by ShaneH - General

Re: LCD2004+Ramp 1.4 not working - 10 years ago

I have the gadgets3d lcd unit, and had to modify the pins.h file on marlin to remap the assignments and get the lcd to display properly. It took a bit of googling, but the answer is out there.
by ShaneH - Printing

Re: Hey All, Could we use timed cheapo laser pulses to measure Z? - 10 years ago

A nanosecond (ns) is an SI unit of time equal to one billionth of a second Light travels approximately 29.9 centimeters in 1 nanosecond. So to get an accurate pulse measurement to within even 0.1 mm, you would have to fire a pulse and then catch it within 1 300 billionth of 1 second. Good luck with that one...keen to see what you come up with using an arduino and a $0.60 laser :-)
by ShaneH - General

Re: Any idea about convert the slic3r.pl to slic3r.exe - 10 years ago

Umm...why don't you create a shortcut to Perl with the slic3r options preconfigured in the commandline...as per Alternately, you can use PERL2EXE. Amazing what that "Google" thing can do for you ;-)
by ShaneH - Slic3r

Re: My problems have got problems - 10 years ago

Remember that the switches are considered triggered when they are in the open state. The switches themselves should be wired on the common and NC connectors, so they go 'open' when the lever is hit. The ramps board has provision for axis min and max switches, so you must have jumpers on the unused end stop pins, which tricks the board to thinking it has switches attached.
by ShaneH - Reprappers

Re: Prusa I3 BOM Help - 10 years ago

I'll chime in from the windy (tonite..really cold!) capital... Watch those problematic MOSFETs on the ramps board. The one for the heat bed is generally the one that will let the smoke out, so research the many, many posts on the problem and suggested alternatives. Will watch this thread for your updates, great writeup so far.
by ShaneH - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: Wellington Reprap presence - 10 years ago

Hi all, Following on from the intro by JimJimma.. Live on Kapiti Coast, work in Wgtn CBD. Been up and running for several months now with a self sourced parts Mendel90 (sturdy) build, running a J-Head Mk5 1.75mm -> 0.3mm. Acrylic sheet for base and gantry components - Classique Plastics (Trademe) Most of the vitamins from MakerShop (smooth rod, nuts and bolts, belts and pulleys, etc) Filam
by ShaneH - New Zealand RepRap User Group

Re: Sketchup and Kisslicer problem - 10 years ago

Go and get the "Solid inspector" plugin for sketchup. That will highlight errors with non solid faces and vertices that make your model a "non solid". Additionally , grab the Cleanup3 plugin for automatic cleaning your models. These will save you a lot of grief especially when you can't work out why sketchup insists a particular model is a non solid despite seeing nothing obvious (cleanup is m
by ShaneH - 3D Design tools

Re: RepRap using DC Motors! - 10 years ago

Not raining on your parade or anything, I've thought about using DC motors as well...but You could use DC motors with linear encoder strips or radial encoder disks on something fairly slow moving, and where you could implement a PID control so you don't overshoot the target point, and also not slamming the motor too hard on a stop (at the expense of decreased print speed). The Arduino motor con
by ShaneH - Reprappers

Re: What is a reliable way to calculate cost of filament usage per part? - 10 years ago

Load the gcode file into pronterface and it will summarise the print job...including length of filament used. (Cost of reel / length of reel) x job filament length. $30/100m = 30c per metre. "Cube" will use 6.75m...therefore job cost $2.02 of filament...+ tax, shipping, markup, power, and layers fees in case makerbot have a patent pending on the cube. Should come in at about $43.95 :-)
by ShaneH - Mendel90

Re: Prusa i3 stopping mid print*video* - 10 years ago

Wow...sounds like it's being powered with a jackhammer! Has it always been that noisy? And just between you and me....you should really do something with your wiring. You could have a weak joint somewhere in that mess, and when it gets to a certain z height, and the wires pull in a particular way, could be causing your issue. I would run a print and start moving wires. If it cuts out, then a
by ShaneH - Printing

Re: Prusa i3 stopping mid print*video* - 10 years ago

Is that a psu, or a battery charger? Can't find any specs on it, and some sites are listing these under the category of battery charger(???)
by ShaneH - Printing
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