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Printing issues ...
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Check to make sure you are getting power to the board through a 12v power supply. Make sure you are connected to a computer through the USB. Try to connect to the board with PrintRun (Pronterface). Make sure you connect using the correct "port" setting and you have your "baudrate" set to what is in the firmware you loaded (usually 250000) it may take a few seconds to connect.
by
KingRahl
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RepRap User Group - Tulsa, OK
What...
board are you using?
firmware you uploaded
software you're connecting with?
baudrate setting in firmware vs. software?
by
KingRahl
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RepRap User Group - Tulsa, OK
This happened to me today. I was using Printrun-win-slic3r-03Feb15 and used the "print speed" setting. I was printing at 158%. That seems to have been the only thing I changed and the only time it has happened to me.
by
KingRahl
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Printing
After contacting the good folks in Technical Support at RepRapPro.com (I purchased a few years ago. I'm only NOW upgrading to multiple extruders), They gave me a prompt response. It was a missing line of code in the pins.h tab. All it needed was a copy (line 125) and paste (line 63). After "Verify" in Arduino 1.0.5-r2 everything seems to be ok now. I'm hoping to get everything put back together t
by
KingRahl
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General
Does anyone know how to get this to upload onto a Sanguinololu board? I can get it to load on a Melzi but my Melzi extruder part is "wonky". I change the settings in Configuration.h to the Sanguinololu board but when I Verify or try to upload I get the error. "SLAVE_CLOCK"was not declared in this scope. This is located in the slave_comms.h tab.
The wiki instructions tell me to use Arduino 1.0.4
by
KingRahl
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General
Check the plug on the board. Make sure there aren't any loose strands of wire touching other wires.
Your tensioner may also be too tight.
Controlling from Pronterface: Are you pressing the extrude button multiple times? This sends too many commands and your controller has to slow itself down to keep up.
Your heater block may also not be keeping up with your extrusion speed. Try slowing your e
by
KingRahl
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Printing
Are you measuring 100mm with the hot end removed? This would account for less resistance.
If you are printing too fast that your hot end can't melt the plastic quick enough can cause resistance.
Any resistance on the filament can cause the extruder to either skip steps or if your power is high enough, cause the hobbed end to cut into the filament. Also make sure the hobbed gear is tight enough a
by
KingRahl
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Printing
What host software are you connecting with?
Slicing program?
Slicing settings?
Filament size you are using vs. filament setting in slicing software?
It can look like you are over extruding if your axes are not calibrated. Have you calibrated X,Y,Z?
It is all about "volume". It is a calculation of 100mm of filament going into your hot end and controlled by your slicing settings into how many ste
by
KingRahl
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Printing
I sliced something last night and today it was doing a small shift on my x-axis. I was able to catch it early though. I turned everything off and restarted Pronterface then unplugged and plugged the end stops. It may have been the end stops.
by
KingRahl
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Printing
In the link you provided, there is a comment section. The first comment that has also been on there for the past 7 hours says they think there was a bad batch made. They are looking into the problem. I'm sure if you tell them they will give you a new one.
by
KingRahl
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Printing
Do your drivers feel hot? Maybe add a fan pointing to the board?
by
KingRahl
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Printing
Firmware settings are printer specific. You can set the baud rate to whatever your host software can connect to. If you are using Pronterface, 115200 is adequate.
by
KingRahl
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Developers
This may be a friction/binding problem. First contact Printrbot and let them know of the problem. This may be a known issue and they may have a fix.
Since the entire Y-Carriage with smooth rods is balanced on a relatively short base, it may be tilting.
Make sure the bearings are straight and the bearing holders are tightened firm.
There may be an extra tab on a piece of wood keeping a bearing cr
by
KingRahl
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Printing
I haven't added any more than the one extruder to mine yet. But the one I've found most compelling is the Dual X-Carriage Bukobot . It implements a metal tab the nozzle rests on while waiting to minimize the problem of ooze bane. It can also wipe any ooze off.
A multi extruder system can be put onto any model of printer. You don't have to limit your search to printers with large print areas. In
by
KingRahl
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General
Check your solder points and wires. It could have come undone somewhere. Also unplug and plug back in. There may be some sort of corrosion or dust in your plug.
by
KingRahl
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Printing
Lower your temperature for PLA. 210c is a good starting temp for ABS.
What nozzle size and layer height are you using? It looks like either your layer height is too high, or you have a loose hot end. Make sure it is not wobbling and your layer height is set lower than your nozzle diameter.
by
KingRahl
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Printing
Do you have everything else off the motor also? Just the motor sitting on the table?
Have you tried another motor by itself on the same driver?
by
KingRahl
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Printing
With the power off and motor unplugged, how hard is it to turn your motor gear while feeding filament through? Your idler may be pushing against it too tight. Too much resistance (binding) can keep your motor from turning.
by
KingRahl
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Printing
Could you be more specific in your question?
Turning the potentiometer too high causes this. If you're trying to get more power than it can handle.
How long was it previously working fine? Were you able to print for long periods of time prior to this?
Does someone else have access to it that they may have adjusted it?
by
KingRahl
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Printing
The whine starts when you have your driver turned up too high. This in turn overheats your driver. When your driver overheats, it will shut off. Turn your trimpot down and add a fan to your board. If you don't have a heat sink, add one.
by
KingRahl
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Printing
What part of your machine are they on? The carriage or belt?
by
KingRahl
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Printing
It's probably just ooze bane. When your previous print finishes, while the hot end is still hot, the plastic will ooze out leaving empty space inside the hot end. This will take time to fill at the start of the print. This is why a perimeter is added to the start of a print. To "prime" the nozzle.
Unless your temperature readings are not working properly. Then it may not be melting your plastic
by
KingRahl
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Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist
Are the axes orthogonal? If not you'll never print a round circle or a square square...
Thank you. I keep forgetting to tell people that. That's a major thing to overlook. I keep thinking about the more common minor things.
by
KingRahl
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Printing
You've already stated what I think it is. The belt or pulley.
If you are using printed pulley. Get rid of it and buy a uniform metal pulley.
Make sure your set screws are tight. Make sure your pulley is the right size for the motor's shaft. If the pulley is sitting off center, just like a printed pulley, you'll never get an accurate print.
Your belts need to be tight but not so tight to bend any
by
KingRahl
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Printing
A loose belt, wobbly hot end, or a not tightened set screw (check all belts and pulleys). There can also be a problem with whatever slicing program you are using. Try a different release of that slicing software or a different slicer all together.
by
KingRahl
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Reprappers
Those layers don't look like they are laying flat enough. If you are printing at 0.25 layers, I'm thinking you may have a 0.3mm nozzle. Try changing that in your slicer and dropping layer to 0.2mm. Make sure your fan is not blowing on your nozzle. This will cause it to run hotter to keep up. You may need to print a cone for your fan to direct it to the print.
by
KingRahl
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Printing
Definitely lower your temperature. Try to start at 190c and increase as needed. What nozzle size and layer height? What version of Slic3r? Is it the latest, or the one that came with your Pronterface (Printrun)?
by
KingRahl
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Printing
Alignment: To get proper alignment of your rods it goes like this -
1. Y-carriage smooth rods aligned to frame
2. X-carriage and Z smooth rods aligned 90 degrees to Y smooth rods.
3. Level Z by measuring X smooth rods to Y smooth rods.
4. Level bed to X-carriage (Hot end).
by
KingRahl
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Reprappers
Definitely try to get new parts. It seems like they threw together parts laying around. The motor looks like NEMA 14 and the bracket looks like it takes a NEMA 17.
If you don't want to wait for replacement parts:
You can use just 2 bolts temporarily to make new extruder parts. Or drill new holes as a temporary fix.
The Idler bolt spring holes can be drilled with the side of a drill bit to make o
by
KingRahl
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Prusa i3 and variants
WOW! That sounded heinous. You have some serious vibration in the x-axis belt, your z-axis squeaks, and the motors sound horrible.
Make sure the stepper drivers are properly adjusted.
Tighten the belts to "firm" and not too tight.
Lube the bearings/bushings. On all axis ensure the smooth rods are parallel. And make sure your z threaded rod and nuts are not creating tension.
by
KingRahl
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Printing
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