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Printing issues ...
Re: Failing to print with dissolvable support - 5 years ago
My homemade printer has a Bowden for the right extruder and the left one is direct. I will try to print the support with the left one and the PLA with the right one. Maybe that helps. On the other hand, the Rise 3D I tried has the bond tech upgrade for the extruders and both are direct. I wonder how people successfully print with these materials.by daishi - Printing
Failing to print with dissolvable support - 5 years ago
Hi guys, I am desperately trying to get water dissolvable support to work, but the result always looks like this: It is supposed to look more like this: I already tried different filaments like PVA and in this case Filamentum Atlas. Atlas is supposed to be more temperature resistent than normal PVA. I also tried two different printers: My homemade one with a Bowden E3D hotend and a Rise3D Nby daishi - Printing
Re: Dual extrusion oozing/colors bleeding - 7 years ago
Thanks for your help! I tried a script that changes the temperature of the unused nozzle to 160°C. Here is the result, still on the brim: Nearly perfect ! The print time went from 5 hours to around 7, but thats worth the difference. Your link with the changeable hotends is really cool! I should try something like this some time.by daishi - Printing
Re: Dual extrusion oozing/colors bleeding - 7 years ago
Thanks for your help! Unfortunately I only have 0.4mm nozzles, so I had no chance to try different ones. Lowering the temperature of the unused tool sounds like a good idea. It should be possible with a tool change script in simplify3d. The only downside is that it will probably double the printing time when the printer waits for the second nozzle to cool down.by daishi - Printing
Dual extrusion oozing/colors bleeding - 7 years ago
Hi, I recently added a second extruder to my home made printer and converted it to Bowden tubes. It now has two E3d V6s. Unfortunately I get filament oozing and the colors bleeding in dual extrusion prints: Things I already tried: -Printing with ooze shield and prime pillar -lowering the temperature (PLA) to 190 degree C -longer retractions. I get jams with everything over 6mm -faster retractby daishi - Printing
Re: Can´t find a solution for my Z-ribbing, help? 
- 8 years ago
Hi Steve, luckily you were wrong: I just installed the aluminum print bed and did a test print: near perfect layer alignment! I guess the plate is stiff enough to prevent the pcb from bending too much. Here is the printbed, right now with painters tape, but that will soon change: And here a picture of the print: Looks even better than on glas with the heatbed off. Thank you so much guysby daishi - Printing
Re: Can´t find a solution for my Z-ribbing, help? - 8 years ago
The aluminum plate is 300x200x5, but the holes of the PCB are around 315x215 apart. My plan is to clip the plate to the PCB like the original glas plate was. I know it would be more ideal to bolt it all together, but this way I can still remove the printbed to get the parts off it and it should be heavy and stiff enough to prevent any unwanted movement. I guess the thermistor will stay taped to tby daishi - Printing
Re: Can´t find a solution for my Z-ribbing, help? - 8 years ago
Ok, you are right. There is no point in starting with a glas plate, just to switch to something stiffer later. I will order a machined 5mm aluminum plate that fits my 300x200 pcb heater. The thing is that I don´t want to screw the plate down but fix it using the clips so I can still remove it to get the prints off it. But I don´t think the pcb will be able to bent a 5mm aluminum plate.by daishi - Printing
Re: Can´t find a solution for my Z-ribbing, help? - 8 years ago
Hi, thanks for the tips! I made some tests today: changing the bed from Bigbang to PID already helps a lot. As you mentioned, the glas seems still to be flexing a little and that still causes some minor ribbing. Upgrading to an aluminum bed sounds good. Did you use a machined sheet or just a normal one? Another option would be to use a thicker glas (mine is 3mm), that is stiffer, or to decoupby daishi - Printing
Re: Can´t find a solution for my Z-ribbing, help? - 8 years ago
One more thought: could part of the problem be that I use a normal sheet of glas as the print bed and not a sheet of borosilicate glas? Maybe it bends more that this special glas?by daishi - Printing
Re: Can´t find a solution for my Z-ribbing, help? - 8 years ago
Hm, tightening the screws did´t help. Maybe I need to mount the bed differently somehow. Right now I am printing PLA with a bed temperature of 40°C, maybe I should rise the temperature to 60° so that the whole glass gets heated better? I could just leave the bed off for PLA, but I also want to print ABS and there I will be needing the heated bed. @the_digital_dentist: You are right, I reallyby daishi - Printing
Re: Can´t find a solution for my Z-ribbing, help? - 8 years ago
Wow! Thanks for the fast responses! I tried printing with the heated bed turned off and it looks way better: Here is a picture of my bed-screws. They already are pretty stiff ones. Maybe there is something wrong with my bed leveling in general? Is it bad to have 6 clamps for the glass surface? The remaining distortion really could be over extrusion. I calibrated the extruder steps by extrudby daishi - Printing
Can´t find a solution for my Z-ribbing, help? - 8 years ago
Hi, I built a new printer, a modified spark cube and need your help. Unfortunately I see some minor Z-ribbing in all of my prints. Here is an example with a calibration object: And a closeup with increased contrast to see the layers better: It is not wobble, but ribbing, the complete layer is either pushed to the outside or to the inside of the object. Also the distortions seam to vary fromby daishi - Printing
Re: Layers incomplete/missing with PLA?? - 9 years ago
The fan was on, but I did another internet search and it looks like heat creep could indeed be the problem. Maybe I should print a modified duct for the heatsink-fan so it does not only cool the fins but also the heat barrier? But first I will try to print at a lower temperature. Thanks for the tip!by daishi - Printing
Re: Layers incomplete/missing with PLA?? - 9 years ago
Ok tried using 0.2mm layers but this time the extruder stopped completely.by daishi - Printing
Re: Layers incomplete/missing with PLA?? - 9 years ago
Hi, the speed was more around 50 or 60 mm/s if I remember it correctly. Maybe thats why the upper (slower) layers look OK again? Strangely this speed worked with ABS. Will try both (speed and layer resolution) when I am back home. Thanks!by daishi - Printing
Layers incomplete/missing with PLA?? - 9 years ago
Hi, recently I am trying to print in PLA on my Prusa I3 with E3d V5 hotend. I mounted a layer cooling fan and hoped everything would work then. Unfortunately it seems like the printer is not extruding enough plastic at random layers: The print has a resolution of 0.1mm and was printed at a temperature of 205°. Do you guys have any idea what the problem could be?by daishi - Printing
Re: Print Quality issues with my first printer - 10 years ago
Thanks . Yep, I think, I am making good progress . Generally the print quality is good now, I even managed to print the bridge. Now the only problem I have is that bigger parts split because of warping of the ABS: I have read, that some people put a garbage bag over the printer to keep the heat in and that solves this issue? Thanksby daishi - Printing
Re: Print Quality issues with my first printer - 10 years ago
Hi again, I made some really good progress yesterday: I changed from Cura zu Slic3r and the calibration cubes look great: They are printed with 0.3mm layer height but still look more detailed than the 0.2mm from Cura. Only the bridging on top of the complicated part didn´t fully work. The first layer of the bridge was only partial, so there is a mess on the inner side of the part: Maybe I nby daishi - Printing
Re: Print Quality issues with my first printer - 10 years ago
Here is a better picture from the deformed wall: ...printing some 15mm cubes with different temperatures now...by daishi - Printing
Re: Print Quality issues with my first printer - 10 years ago
Hi again, the end of the sidewall indeed seems to be a little weavy at the end and then there is a blob when the nozzle changes direction. Unfortunately I am still at work, I could make a better picture once I am back home. The third picture is the top half of a sphere and the top fails to close. There are also "bubbles" on the side where the layers start/end. I printed it with 0,2mm layer heigby daishi - Printing
Re: Print Quality issues with my first printer - 10 years ago
Hi Woodwalker, thanks for your help. Here is a picture of how the part should look like, although it is upside down in the picture, I tried to print it with the opening to the bottom... I bought the printer as a kit, it has the Sanguinololu 1.3a board and runs with Marlin. The firmware came preflashed but I reflashed it when I calibrated the extruder and the Z-axis. So you think it could beby daishi - Printing
Print Quality issues with my first printer - 10 years ago
Hi, I just assembled my first 3d printer. It´s a Prusa i3 with 3mm filament and a E3D V5 hotend with a 0,4mm nozzle. I already calibrated the axis and the extruder. Unfortunately my prints look weird: There are blobs on the surface and and bridging doesn´t work at all. The part in the first picture should be closed on top. The ends of the walls look weird, too. The material is ABS and the nozzlby daishi - Printing