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What if you roll the belt counterclockwise while tightening with pliers? That way you can still attach it with zip ties without removing the pliers.
by
anvoice
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Reprappers
The electronics absolutely must match the voltage. That includes heaters and the control board, fans, etc.
24 volts has the advantage of faster heat-up times as well as the potential to make the motors a bit more responsive than 12V, although there's no guarantee you'll see that benefit. The main disadvantage is that you'll have to take extra care if your control board isn't designed for 24V (e.
by
anvoice
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General
I also run PETG at 30mm/s. Slow but print quality is good. Although it will work at 50-60, you can experiment with that speed and see if the print quality is adequate for your needs.
I run ABS at 60mm/s without a problem.
by
anvoice
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Reprappers
Are you sure your z_steps are correct? What about the esteps? If you have an i3 with M8 rod, your steps_mm should be about 4000 to 8000 for the z, depending on the microstepping you use. For e, depends on your extruder, but if that made a difference before maybe you need to up it further.
A second possibility is underpowered z axis and extruder motor, due to stepper driver current being set to lo
by
anvoice
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Printing
No, that was my commentary. The code should look like the following:
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1
If the X dir goes in the wrong direction, change "false" to "true" in the first line
If you want the homing directions to be in opposite directions, you change the "-1" to "1" in the remaining lines.
by
anvoice
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Reprappers
Go to the Configuration.h file in Marlin, and edit this line:
#define INVERT_X_DIR true/false
Reverse the true/false that's in there right now.
For setting up the homing direction, in the same Configuration.h file, go to the following 3 lines:
#define X_HOME_DIR -1/1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1/1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1/1
and choose the direction you want, i.e. if you want homing to the negative X direct
by
anvoice
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Reprappers
In cases like this (probably in any case) it's best to test continuity using a multimeter. That is, take the plug, and check which wire the Live, Neutral, and Ground wires are. That's the only real safe way to do it.
by
anvoice
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Prusa i3 and variants
The PETG glass transition temperature is about 78C, so you may want to be careful with those parts until they cool: they'll be quite soft due to the bed heat otherwise.
by
anvoice
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Printing
I use methylene chloride. It's pretty much the least toxic of the chlorocarbons and was once used to make decaf coffee.
by
anvoice
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General
I heart it's difficult to achieve enough rigidity for this type of H bot compared to say coreXY, so it may be more of a challenge to get it right.
by
anvoice
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General
Hi Mutley,
You ask on your website to select the nearest size to the actual bed dimensions and that you'll trim it to the required size. Do you mean to select the nearest LARGER size or the actual nearest size?
Thanks.
by
anvoice
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General
To be entirely accurate, it's a provitamin of vitamin B5. I have a bottle sitting on my table and I've used it more than I should have had to.
by
anvoice
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Look what I made!
For when you get burned using your 3d printer: panthenol works very well for burns if you apply it right away.
by
anvoice
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Look what I made!
I have 10mm wide (calipers say 11mm) pulleys and what was declared to be 10mm wide belt coming from Aliexpress, so I'm guessing 10mm is an option, unless it's actually 9mm marketed as 10mm.
I'm convinced. Added an aluminum angle (1/8") to the X axis.
by
anvoice
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CoreXY Machines
Your small parts definitely look to be suffering from insufficiently cooled PETG. The nozzle drags the print around, warping it before it gets a chance to cool. Try printing it a bit slower, or printing several of these at the same time, or using a smaller fan to cool the part. 40mm sounds about right for that sort of job.
Unfortunately I'm not able to help much with the interference problem tho
by
anvoice
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Printing
As far as PETG is concerned, you can try slowing down the print a bit (I print it at 30mm/sec max and get good results) and see if it helps. Also for small parts, PETG retains heat for a while, so you either need active cooling of the part or you need to print the small parts together with something larger. When printing small parts without cooling, I can often deform them easily by hand when the
by
anvoice
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Printing
One of 2 things: your relay is bad or the control signal is always on. I'd check number one first by seeing if it conducts with the control voltage low, if it doesn't the control signal must be constantly positive. That would indicate either that the RAMPS is faulty or you wired it to an always-on positive signal instead of to the bed control. Not sure which it might be without more info on your
by
anvoice
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Reprappers
Quotenapierm
Quoteanvoice
Here's a redesigned version of the printer as I have it so far. Now it uses 3 ballscrews and 2 linear guides for the Z, as well as dual 608 bearings for pulleys to accommodate 10mm belts on the XY. Haven't figured out what sort of gearbox I'll drive the Z with but I'll do a bit of research and probably manage.
Especially appreciate all of your feedback that helped ma
by
anvoice
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CoreXY Machines
Quotesigxcpu
Why would you need a gearbox for Z? If you use common 20T pulleys on motors and some big 60T on Z ballscrews you get a 3:1 "gearbox". For 16T motor pulleys, even bigger ratio.
I believe 60T pulleys won't fit on the screws without extending outside the frame, which means I can't enclose it.
Edit: Actually I think you're right, it fits nicely and will probably provide enough of a gear
by
anvoice
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CoreXY Machines
Here's a redesigned version of the printer as I have it so far. Now it uses 3 ballscrews and 2 linear guides for the Z, as well as dual 608 bearings for pulleys to accommodate 10mm belts on the XY. Haven't figured out what sort of gearbox I'll drive the Z with but I'll do a bit of research and probably manage.
Especially appreciate all of your feedback that helped make some positive changes.
by
anvoice
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CoreXY Machines
Mean well seems to be pretty good. Looking at teardowns of various power supplies, many of the low-end ones are not able to handle their rated load, so if you need to push it there you're better off with a higher quality supply. If you're looking to use only half rated capacity then the low-end will probably serve you fine. It may still be worth opening the PSU and looking in there for loose sold
by
anvoice
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Reprappers
For what it's worth I'm printing exclusively PETG now. Switched from ABS and not looking back much... Except where print speed is an issue, PETG does print nicer at 30mm/s which is slower than I'd like. No strings though (I print eSun PETG at 250 C, 75 bed adhesion), a little bit of warping happens on larger parts but fixed by large enough brim. All in all, a very good material, I'm building a he
by
anvoice
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General
Your extruder looks like it would put a fair amount of torque on the rods at the center point. Perhaps one with the motor's mass over the rods rather than to the side torquing them would prove better.
What about the spaces between the screws. That is, these points:
screw..........X..........screw
X................................X
screw.........X..........screw
Perhaps if you measure the
by
anvoice
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Reprappers
Quotenapierm
So my point (yes, there is one) is that it is hard enough to get 2 rails to run parallel with each other. I sure wouldn't want to try fighting 4 of them. The 2 rails just have to hold the Z-table square to the frame in the X-Y plane. Use 3 screws hold the table level and drive them all from the bottom with a common endless belt.
Thanks for sharing your experience Napierm. I defin
by
anvoice
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CoreXY Machines
I'm not that concerned about speed, my main issue is print quality. Although I already have some 2A 0.9 degree Nema 23 steppers as well as a couple of 68 oz-in 0.9 Nema 17 steppers that I can use for the XY. I'll go with the Nema 17's if they can pull the axes fine.
I think I'll fully support my Z linear rails, so using 4 rails per corner plus 2 ballscrews should be good enough I hope.
by
anvoice
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CoreXY Machines
Thinking of improving on the design by using either 2 ballscrews and 4 linear guides (lead screws center on both sides and a linear guide at each corner), or 3 ballscrews and 2 linear guides for the Z axis. Any thoughts on what would be advantageous? I do hear that if choosing the latter, driving 3 screws with one motor is wiser.
by
anvoice
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CoreXY Machines
When it's that bad I'd say it's fairly certain one side of your z axis isn't moving up enough. Several possible causes: binding, too little (or too much) power to that motor. Did you try making sure the motor on the skewed circle side has approximately the needed amount of current?
by
anvoice
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Printing
More detail on your printer is in order, as well as pictures of the problem. Could be that one of your z motors is skipping steps and not rising far enough, causing a squished circle. Only a guess though.
by
anvoice
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Printing
Turns out it was (yet again) a faulty stepper driver. Switched it out and now I'm printing. Thanks for the help.
by
anvoice
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CoreXY Machines
Hi,
My coreXY is finally printing, but experiencing some shifting that makes the prints essentially unrecognizable. I've attached a picture of the first layer of what should be a calibration cube. It prints the perimeters more or less reasonably (although there is a gap between the top and left lines), but the infill looks totally bizarre as it's shifted away from the square. Any idea what might
by
anvoice
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CoreXY Machines
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