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Printing issues ...
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You clearly got design/CAD skills.
It would be better to design a regid printer using as few printed parts as possible.
What you are trying to has been a thing over 10 years ago, and it was not a success :-)
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Hello,
It shouldn't be an issue if you adjust the screw holes of one of the Y ends to the position of the H carriage. This assuming both carriages are identical of thickness.
Aside from that, if you can use the H for the X axis it will probably be less of hassle and make more sense to stick to your orginal plan.
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Hello,
Can anyone advice me a good solution to avoid my cables (sleeves) getting tangled in the cable chains?
It's a mess and i'm not figuring out a proper solution at this time.
Thanks
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
@The_digital_dentitst
Thanks for the feedback.
- I am using a a Duet 2 Wifi as a controller
The bed is manually leveled with the M5 Red nuts on 3 M5 bolts.I have Nylon M5 screws ready which i could use to help the bed expand when heating, probably not the best way but might work.
That is a capactive sensor for the Z zeroing, I am hoping not needing it for bed leveling. I used a capactive sen
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Hello fellow Reprapper or RepRaper
I have been engineering, sourcing parts, awaiting delivery's, reordering and redesigning a 3D Printer for some years now. .
Never got to the point to be sufficiently satisfied to post about the printer here. (Still not satisfied and unable to make good photos!)
The machine is not finished, electronics cabling need to be extended and connected etc.
A succesfu
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
That is a cool looking mendelmax !
I went pretty much the same route as you years ago, i always liked the mendelmax look.
Like most of us, i learned a lot by how a machine should not be designed and spend a lot of time trying to improve the machine.
Here is picture of my old Mendelmax, it does no longer exist however. I disassembled it about a year ago.
by
Govahnator
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Developers
Can you give some more info?
I suppose you are building a custom printer, based on one of Prusa's printers.
If so, which one?
If i understand your question correctly, you are are looking for a X carriage assembly?
by
Govahnator
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General
QuoteOhmarinus
Get an MK52 clone heated bed from aliexpress. The spring steel plate also works great with an inductive probe
And it's the max size that you can place, around 254*254 I believe.
@ Ohmarinus
Does the Inductive probe not give issues with the magnetic field of the bed?
I believe i destroyed an inductive sensor a while back because of the magnets attached under my bed plate.
It was
by
Govahnator
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General
Hi everyone
Update:
I managed to resolve the backlash issue and all issues mentioned in this topic by opening the Nema17 gearbox and reassembling it.
It was fairly easy. I disassembled the gearbox and realized that if i could untighten the 3 screws,move the whole gearbox more to the right and get the gears closer in the worm wheel on the Nema17, the backlash might decrease.
With a screwdriver i
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Hi Everyone.
I have been looking into a solution how to best drive my Z axis for quite a while now.
Ordered a Wormgear and a Wormrod. The plan is to attach the Wormrod to a Nema17 and the Wormgear to the 8mm rod driving my z axis.
The difference with my current setup, like in attachment, would be installing 1 long smooth rod and attaching the Wormgear on it, then vertically mounting a Nema 17 wi
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
QuoteReanimator2k
I'm using a different solution. Maybe it will be helpful to you.
Source(rus)
Interesting! Thanks for sharing.
I will look further into this.
Not sure if i can use it on a Nema23 and Duet2. Also not sure if this combined with 4.7 ohm resistors will do for me.
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Quotedc42
You could put G91 G1 H2 Z0.1 G90 towards the end of config.g. We don't normally advise putting movement commands in config.g but in this case it seems justified.
I am looking at various options to support motor brakes in RRF. One is to assign a pin as a brake for an axis, and turn it on whenever the axis motors are enabled. Another is to add a command to power up motors without moving
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Hi there,
I am designing a brake for my belt driven Z axis.
The plan is to use a small solenoid wich clamps to an 8mm rod, which is attached to the Z motor using a coupler.
photo of the design in attachment, i will be testing it tomorrow.
It would prevent the Z axis from crashing down when power is cut.
I also need to make sure the Z axis does not crash when turning the power on since the Sole
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Thanks for the advice guys.
I am thinking of keeping the setup, i will test my first prints soon, i will see what it gives.
As long as it can get the bed up to start the print all is good, which it can (barely) do.
I don't think changing to ballscrews would stop the bed from falling either.
As soon as my solenoid arrives i will play with it to act as a Z brake.
I am also considering a double
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
So i got the second strongest Nema23 i could find for 3A and installed it.
It barely can lift the bed up. Only with the right belt tension, if the belt is a bit more tight the motor stalls. If i add another kilo on the axis it stalls too.
To bad since the bed does not drop when the belts are really tightened.
It can hold a lot of weight when moving the axis down, so it can hold heavy prints, it
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Can you give more info about what exactly is confusing you?
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist
It should be pretty easy to calculate the lifting power of a motor if you know the motor torque spec and the diameters of the pulleys...
I would get rid of the spring type shaft couplers. They're going to wind and unwind every time the bed moves.
Agreed for the spring couplers, i have larger stiff ones but only for 8mm shafts.
I have been trying to calculate the neede
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
I am going to try connecting 2 Nema 17's and see what that gives.
Both are dual shaft, i wil connect the shafts with a coupler and make one motor duplicate the signal.
If someone knows in advance it is not even worth trying , please , stop me :-)
I am also thinking about buying 2 of these if it doesn't work out.
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
QuoteMKSA
As I wrote earlier..
"You can contact the "engineer" who designed this worm gear box. His name is Sum Sing Wong !
Note, the behavior described in the above post is normal, just that the gear play seems quite big."
Seriously, there is no way to achieve anything worth with a poor quality worm gearbox. Already not easy with a good one.
I am aware of that, this thread is not about th
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Quotetolar250
have you considered using gear reduction? its not the most compact solution, but its pretty low cost and i have not had any issues with the x gantry dropping on my prusa style machine. i am using two sets of 20 tooth and 80 tooth pulleys with a .09 degree motor and 32 tooth pulleys to to ultimately get to 1600 steps per mm. you would just have to find the right combination of pulle
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
As some of you have read in my previous Thread, i am trying to get my Z axis belt driven. Previous thread:
I have a wormgeared stepper, with so much backlash that i tried to make my Z axis heavier to counter the lash. It did not work out, even with a 8kg Z axis there still is enough lash to be able to push the z axis a bit down. Link to Worm Stepper (This motor can drive the Z ax
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
So i ordered a new cast tooling plate to increase the weight. 412x412x8mm = 3.6kg.
However it seems that even this will not be sufficient. Oh well , we will see.
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
So i tried changing the motor to all possible different directions, still no luck.
I did some testing with the printer placed vertically, even without "the gravity" interfering i still have the same issue.
Made a video of the vertical testing which you can find in attachment.
Basicly, after moving the motor in whatever direction there is further backlash in the same direction.
I guess i can't
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
If you mean twisting in like squirming ,no they don't.
They just move a little bit until the lower limit of the backlash in the motor is reached.
I just don't understand the logic behind the Z motor being in the lower limit of the backlash after a z+ move, and being in the uperlimit of the backlash after a z- move.
Maybe i should make a video showing what i mean, English is not my native lang
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Update:
Although issue much less pronounced, it is still there.
Even with 5 kg extra wait on the axis, it still moves a bit down (gears driving the axis move a bit) when adding extra wait after moving the axis down by controller.
Like mentioned before, when adding wait to the axis after moving it upwards, the axis is rock solid and does not move.
Not sure how i can try to become the opposite.
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Although not the most aesthetically pleasing, i implemented a solution as seen in the pictures below:
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
It does not have trouble with the weight, i did a test with 7kg on the Z axis and it goes fine apart from the steel core belts starting to making a cracking noise.
I really dislike the steel core belts and will be replacing them even though the glassfiber belts stretch more.
I will make a mount for my dial indicator and do some tests aswell.
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
You are right. I placed some filament spools on the axis (with no alu plate attached), 2 spools of a kg, not enough, 3th spool did drop the axis.
My 1.9 kg cast plate is not sufficient to make the axis usable, it needs another Kilogram.
Solution: I have to buy a 420x420x8mm plate of +-4kg Or make the axis heavier on the frame supporting the plate. I have 2020's laying around that i could attach
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
The gearbox has a 1:17 gear ratio.
I will try to do the testing with some KG's of filament on the assembly.
My assembly is very light, it uses 2040 and 2020's, the light weight versions. The bed i have currently tested is 220x220mm 5mm (of my previous printer).
The bed i will use is 340x340x6mm, will still be a relativly light weight Z axis.
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
To try to counter the issue, i did push the Z axis down, so that the motor position is in the lowest of the backlash so it can't be moved down, only up. Then i did multiple electrical movements z upwards , after these movements i am not able to push the z axis downwards , which is fine.
As soon as i do electrical movements downwards, the backlash reveresed and i am able to push the axis down aga
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
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