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Printing issues ...
Re: Reason for different surface quality on the same print - 7 years ago
My 2 cents worth.... I had a similar issue and I found it was related to the layer height vs height of the part being printed. For example a 2mm high platform printed at .2mm layer height would give very smooth final layer. 2mm divided by 0.2 = 10 layers If the platform height was say 2.3mm and I tried to print at .2mm layer height I would end up with what you're experiencing in the uneven lastby psneddon - Printing
Re: Prusa i3 problems - 8 years ago
Elmer's Purple Glue stick works great with PLA. I actually put some of it in a small container, dilute it with warm water and stir it up until there are no more purple blobs of glue. Use a wide artists paint brush and brush on a layer first left to right, then front to back. Works GREAT! Major advantages (for me): 1. Doesn't effect the bed level like smearing it on with the glue stick. 2. Niceby psneddon - Printing
Re: Simple CURA question - 8 years ago
Fill Density - set to '0' for a hollow part.by psneddon - Printing
Re: reprap i3 z carriage motor trouble - 8 years ago
How are your Z-axis motors connected? I used to use tubing attached with zip ties until the threaded rod unscrewed itself out of the tubing. I use solid couplers now.by psneddon - General
Re: What you people use for gluing PLA parts? - 8 years ago
I'll let you in on my secret: I tested this stuff with two cylinders I printed out of PLA - it was a fit test where one portion of the cylinder fit into the other. After letting it dry (I waited overnight even though it bonds almost instantaneously) I gave it a torture test. I threw the bonded parts against the floor as hard as I could several times to see if I could get it to come apart - noby psneddon - Printing
Re: X and Y step values - 8 years ago
I looked at the Emotiontech's prusa i3 rework V1.5 specs on Thingiverse and the one aspect that would seem to make the difference is the different size bearing(s) in the Y-idler assembly maybe???. Different diameter may throw stepping off?? I assume the x-axis bearings are also a different size than the original too?? After thinking it through, the smaller idler bearing should not effect the stby psneddon - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Mac - Print Off Center - 8 years ago
Check here: It's not because you have a MAC. I use a MAC and no problems with printing. However, because of the location of my endstops, my "home" position is at the rear right of the print bed. My X-axis end stop is on the right side of my frame and my Y-axis endstop is in the front. I also use CURA when I print, so I can't help you with Slic3r. I believe you need to set your printer specifiby psneddon - Printing
Chain Link Fail - SOLVED - 8 years ago
I printed the parts again - this time oriented with the curve pointing toward the front of the bed (and the fan) with the following results. Definitely did the job! Thanks DavidJ! I also made a couple of changes: Fill percentage lowered to 20% - so it doesn't hang around the ends too long when printing Print speed lowered to 30mm/secby psneddon - Printing
Re: Chain Link Fail - 8 years ago
Thanks DavidJ. I'll try that when I get home tonight.by psneddon - Printing
Chain Link Fail - 8 years ago
I am trying to print a cable chain similar to this one here: Unfortunately, the prints aren't coming out too well as you can see here: I am printing PLA at about 190C and I have a fan blowing from the front of the hot end toward the back of the print bed. The parts are oriented with the curved portion toward the back of the print bed as well. Print speed is 50mm/sec and everything else isby psneddon - Printing
Re: T-Rex FAIL - 8 years ago
QuoteJamesK That looks pretty good! Thanks for your suggestion to try a different orientation.by psneddon - Printing
Re: T-Rex FAIL - 8 years ago
Thank you all for your welcome suggestions. I got around to trying it again with a few changes. 1. Changed the orientation of the print 2. Changed the flow rate from 100% to 95% I forgot to change the layer height from my last print - the object was printed at .24mm layer height. The bottom layers are a bit sloppy (where the main supports were), but the overall result wasn't too bad consideringby psneddon - Printing
Re: T-Rex FAIL - 8 years ago
I thought the cool head lift was the same as adding a sacrificial part - the head stops printing and moves away from the piece for at least 5 or 6 seconds when it's printing the branched parts of the print? I've never messed with the extrusion multiplier. I guess I could give it a try. Should I increase or decrease the multiplier? I guess I could try both ways. I was also wondering about the beby psneddon - Printing
Re: T-Rex FAIL - 8 years ago
Quoteggherbaz 50mm/sec is extremely fast for such a detailed piece. Use like 20 instead and lower temperature to 190. I lowered the print speed to 20mm/sec and printed the upper part of the feet starting at 185 and lowering it about half way through to 182, but still no luck I am currently printing the upper part of the feet again. This time at 10mm/sec and started at 182 half way through andby psneddon - Printing
Re: T-Rex FAIL - 8 years ago
Yes, I have a cooling fan with a duct I designed to cool the PLA as it comes out of the nozzle. It really helped with this bridging test: Before duct: After duct: Not perfect, but a heck of a lot better than the original I3 rework printed fan duct. I was searching online for some answers and figured it may need a more powerful fan than the one that's on it now which is a 40mm 12V 0.08A faby psneddon - Printing
T-Rex FAIL - 8 years ago
Hello All, I'm trying to print the arms of the T-Rex skeleton, but not having much luck. Could it be a retraction issue? The bottom part looks pretty good until it gets to the branching of the print. I'm using Cura Retraction speed is 30 mm/s Distance is 4.5mm Trying to print this at: Print speed 50mm/sec Density 10% Bottom/Top thickness .8mm Shell thickness .8mm Layer height .2mm printedby psneddon - Printing
Re: printing issues - 8 years ago
What program did you print the object with - Cura? If so, did you check the layers view to see how the layers look. I had an object I made and tried to print, but the walls were thinner than the nozzle diameter so cura moved up and tried to keep printing in thin air. Since then I always check the layers view no matter what I'm printing.by psneddon - Printing
Re: Weird Print ?? - 8 years ago
Quote3Dex Ltd Yes this is something that is common when you use only 1 wall (or in your case 1.5 walls) I would try setting your shell thickness to 0.8mm and then print it again and see what happens. Also you are printing both parts at the same time? try printing only one part at a time because the nozzle moving between prints can cause this too. Hope this helps, www.3dexfilament.co.uk Tby psneddon - Printing
Re: Weird Print ?? - 8 years ago
QuoteFloyd How many walls do you have on that part? I get the same thing when im underextruding a tad only using two walls. Prusa I3 Rework, Ramps 1.4, 1.75 mm PLA, 0.4mm nozzle I'm using Cura 15.02, so I'm assuming the number of walls is the same as the shell thickness (?), which is set to .6mm. I am using a .4mm nozzle, so this would be the equivalent of 1.5 walls then ?? I calibrated the exby psneddon - Printing
Weird Print ?? - 8 years ago
I'm having some issues with my printer lately. I have attached a few pictures to try and show the problem. I have two hollow conic sections that I printed at the same time about 2 inches apart to allow cooling between layers. The first picture is of the original stl file I had created in 123D Design, shown here: The height wasn't right so I increased the height in the Z direction using the Scaby psneddon - Printing
Re: Auto Bed Leveling - inductive vs microswitch - 8 years ago
Quotetjnamtiw Amazingly, no one that I saw mentioned the BLTOUCH. I have this working now on my FT 2020 for $33 shipping included from S. Korea. It took about 2 weeks to get here. My biggest problem was that, while it worked right out of the 'box' with my laptop hooked up, it required a separate 5V supply on the ramps board. Some people can run it off of the Ramps power and others like me cby psneddon - General
Re: What do i need for a laser? - 9 years ago
I've been reading up on laser safety, reflected laser light hazards and the dangers inherent with these lasers if not used properly and with the proper safety equipment. As such, I have decided against building a laser engraver attachment for my 3d printer. I believe I will pursue a different method of engraving/cutting. Maybe a CNC styled mini- router instead. I thank everyone for the informatiby psneddon - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: What do i need for a laser? - 9 years ago
Thank you Viktor. I hope I will learn which pieces are better as I go along. I have already seen part of the expensive side of laser cutter/engravers - from $3,500 to $35,000+!! I want to start at the roller skate level before I even think about the Grand Prix. Thanks again! P.S. This student built their own laser enclosure where they used an orange acrylic sheet to stop the beams reflectionby psneddon - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: What do i need for a laser? - 9 years ago
Thanks for the info Viktor. I agree that most DIYers probably use their laser cutter/engravers in their living room. That's where I do all my 3d printing. What do you think of the components I am looking at purchasing in my earlier post? I'm not looking at any serious cutting right now. i just want to get my feet wet and see if I can get one up and running like I did with my 3D printer.by psneddon - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: What do i need for a laser? - 9 years ago
0_lampe, Do you have a link or source for the color filter foil? Is it SAFE? I am thinking about using a "1W 1000mW Laser Diode Blue 445nm" so the dark amber would be the one to use. I want to start off engraving wood and maybe some paper/card stock cutting and I'm trying to gather as much information as possible before I buy anything. My main concern right now is safety. From all the postby psneddon - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: What do i need for a laser? - 9 years ago
Cozmicray I've checked that site out before. Thanks. I looked the site over again and was checking out the laser shielding. The price looked very reasonable, so I put one in the shopping cart and went to their checkout page and was shocked to see the shipping costs for USPS for a piece of 12" x 12" shielding! $50 to ship via US Mail is OUTRAGEOUS!!by psneddon - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: J-Head Positive Reviews - 9 years ago
Brian, I have one of your genuine J-Head hot ends and I am quite happy with it. Most of my earlier printing problems were from other parts of my printer - either adjustments (electrical/mechanical) or coming loose. Many thanks for a GREAT product! Peteby psneddon - General
Re: What do i need for a laser? - 9 years ago
QuoteVDX ... the CO2-laser is a 'gas-laser', where the gas mixture is energetized by high voltage and moving electrons, ionising some of the gas molecules, which starts the 'LASER'-effect between the two end-mirrors, where one of them is semi-transparent, so a part of the generated light can escape as beam. In the diode a really small semiconductor crystal with special doping generates light froby psneddon - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: Thoughts on my Prusa i3 Rework BOM - 9 years ago
Quoterdlaner Great, thanks for the info guys! I'm going to try out the couplers and see how it goes. I also noticed a number of folks using flexible tubing instead of aluminum couplers. Have you had any experience using tubing? I used to use flexible tubing (like aquarium tubing), but I changed to the aluminum couplers instead. I noticed after a failed print that the threaded rod had "unscrewedby psneddon - Prusa i3 and variants