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Printing issues ...
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QuoteSrek
I use these
with 215 l/min
Damn, you tricked me It's 215l/hour, not /minute
So it's 3.6l/min.
by
FalloutBe
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General
Thanks a lot for the video!
Sounds like a pretty quiet printer
So this is the pump from Amazon which you linked me, right?
by
FalloutBe
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General
to good? oh yes you want to keep the heat only at the bottom ; )
I'll give this a try!
by
FalloutBe
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General
"and on the inside it gets the thread to screw in the nozzle"
Did you mean the thread to screw in the heatbreak?
I have threading tools for threading a hole, but not for the outside.
What if I just take an M10 bolt like this
by
FalloutBe
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General
Thank you for sharing
It looks like I'll need to redesign the heatsink.
Too bad I don't have any metalworking equipment :/ A lathe would be great haha
Or would there be any part available where the E3D's heat break part fits into?
by
FalloutBe
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General
When using compressed air, it cools better because the air density is higher?
I'd like to use this method but I'm not sure how to modify my E3D. Do I need the fins to be thinner too then? More thinner fins in a more compact space?
by
FalloutBe
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General
Thanks a lot! I could only find aquarium air pumps of about 60l/min max. That one seems a lot better!
Isn't it possible to have a tube from this pump expand to the size of the heatsink of the E3D at the end? or won't that work?
Do you think a radial fan will be quieter than this pump?
by
FalloutBe
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General
How many l/min would I need to effectively cool the hotend if I don't make any changes to it?
And is an aquarium air pump a good choise?
I think they are made more for higher pressures since they need to be submersed in half a meter of water.
Are there other pumps that are more designed for higher volume rates, but can still use quite thin tubes? (thin meaning smaller than 8mm)
by
FalloutBe
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General
"not nearly as disturbing as small fans"
Oh, then it'll be perfect! That was the goal as well actually to make something quieter than the small fan.
by
FalloutBe
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General
Oh yes of course! thanks
I can indeed just add another tube behind the heatsink to direct it back outside of the heated chamber.
So the aquarium pump is noisy? Then how do aquarium people live with that Aren't there silent ones, just like the silent aquarium water pumps?
by
FalloutBe
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General
The barbs for the hoses are indeed quite crappy haha. However, it's a proof of concept for now. It'll have to change in the future for sure.
If I'll be using the water cooling anyways because I didn't know pumping air would be easier, so I'll probably go with that.
What kind of pumps do you suggest? What tube diameter?
And won't the air pump cool down the heated chamber? And if air goes in, air
by
FalloutBe
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General
The chamber will be heated up to about 50C and I'm willing to experiment with 70C, for printing big pieces with ABS.
Is it correct that regular destilled water works fine too instead of liquid PC coolants?
This is what I have for now:
E3D heatsink with 3D pen art and some epoxy.
ok, it's very ugly, but it's water tight and pretty light weight.
I'm just concerned if the two connections brake of
by
FalloutBe
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General
Hello,
I'm upgrading the extruder to be water cooled since the temperature in the heated chamber is causing clogs.
I'm worried about safety (electrocution, fire hazard). The bed runs on 230V and .. well it's right below where the water flows.
If it happens to leak somehow, maybe things could catch on fire, or if I'm operating the printer when there's a leak, I might get electrocuted.
A third
by
FalloutBe
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General
Hello,
Just like coreXY has a formula to drive the X and Y motors,
is it possible to easily change this formula in case I want to try and use another configuration?
And how about the E motor, is it possible to do the same there?
I found something in the code:
#if ENABLED(COREXY)
// corexy planning
// these equations follow the form of the dA and dB equations on
block->steps
by
FalloutBe
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General
Hello,
When the print head is moving on a straight line, it goes fast, and when it goes in to an arc, it goes slow.
I'm wondering whether the speed is limited by the microcontroller, or by the USB connection.
Is there any way to find out?
Kind regards,
Fallout
by
FalloutBe
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RAMPS Electronics
I want the software to wait until the temperature is at a certain level.
I don't like the idea of adding a separate device for controlling this, it destroys the point of having a microcontroller.
by
FalloutBe
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RAMPS Electronics
Hello,
I've put a heater in the chamber to bring it up to temperature.
The heater is connected to the "second hotend" output.
The heater is not able to overheat (no fire hazard) so the temperature sensor is placed somewhere else in the chamber.
I want to bring it up to, let's say 50degees C but a few seconds after starting the heater, marlin's temperature protection kicks in because there is no
by
FalloutBe
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RAMPS Electronics
Ok, but I use ABS because I can smooth it with acetone :/
by
FalloutBe
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Slic3r
Paul,
Extra Perimiters if needed was off, I enabled it but seemingly that does not make any difference in this case. The generated Gcode is exactly the same on my test piece.
About your second suggestion, I'll have to try that.
Thicker perimiters indeed help, but I'd have to use at least 5 instead of 2 to fix this problem. A lot of material will be wasted because I don't need the bottom walls t
by
FalloutBe
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Slic3r
Hello,
In attached picture 1 you can see a lego brick which perfectly illustrates the problem.
The brick is slightly rotated so the top part is not level with the printbed.
Slic3r does not yet detect the top part of the brick as "top layers" at this angle, but as perimiters.
As a result, no "number of top layers" are being printed.
The layer height in this print was 0.05mm. Printing perimiters
by
FalloutBe
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Slic3r
Hello,
If "auto cooling" is enabled, the fan speed depends on the layer printing time.
"Combine infill every # layers" creates different layer printing times and then the fan goes from fast to slow, to fast, to slow, ...
Simplified example:
0.2mm perimiters, 0.2mm infill; infill goes each layer
Layer printing time is 10 seconds, which needs only a low fan speed setting.
0.05mm perimiters, 0.
by
FalloutBe
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Slic3r
Hello.
I bought a Fan Extender and like suggested, I connected it to D6 and D11.
Now it turns out that for some reason I can use M42 to change the PWM value for D6, but I cannot use it on pin D11.
I tried 255 as a value for D11 and that DID work, so the problem is that I can't use it as a PWM pin, but only as a digital one.
There was a whole conversation about this, where THIS reply helped me
by
FalloutBe
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
I cleaned the glass with acetone while cold, to get off most of the hairspray.
After heating to 115 degrees C, I cleaned it again and used a new paper towel (with acetone) about 5 times because when rubbing the glass.
However I could still see some lines, from the hairspray I think.
Do you think it was still not clean enough? Should I have cleaned it with water instead, like you suggested?
Than
by
FalloutBe
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Printing
Hello.
I tried to use ABS juice instead of hairspray on my glass heated printbed but it peels off the glass really easily.
When printing a part, the abs film in between the glass and the part comes loose. It looks like soft fibers, like when you put glue from a glue stick in between your fingers, and then pull your fingers apart, but not as soft
I can also easily scrape the film off the glass
by
FalloutBe
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Printing
Picture 1: holes in perimiters because of slope angle
2: You can see the infill inside (darker part in the top)
3: Slic3r added extra support in the steepest layers
4: No more support while it was still needed
5: You can see the slope angle in this picture.
Is it possible to somehow configure until what angle Slic3r will add extra support for the perimiters?
I guess using 3 instead of 2 perimite
by
FalloutBe
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Slic3r
I think your xy axis is a little bit loose, and using smaller layer heights would also help.
by
FalloutBe
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General
Alright, thanks for the reply!
And then, if I ever do wish to have the case temperature regulated, I can hook up the heating element as the "second hot end" and put my fans on a fan extender chip, right?
EDIT, if I choose the BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB then I already lost control over my fan ): Is there any way to read the T2 temperature without loosing my fan control?
by
FalloutBe
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Repetier
Hey,
Like cozmicray suggested, I decided to use an SFU 1204 ball screw to move the bed up and down.
Cantilevered bed, held in place by two M8 smooth rods. 2 LM8UU on each side.
The ball screw is cut off to length, and the side which has an 8mm diameter is connected to the stepper motor, 5x8 flexible coupling.
This works fantastically! I have printed parts down to 50microns and the edges look p
by
FalloutBe
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Mechanics
Problem solved, I created a new printer
by
FalloutBe
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Reprappers
Hello,
I have the thermistor of my extruder on T0, bed thermistor on T1 and case thermistor on T2.
Only T0 and T1 are displayed in the Repetier software. T2 should only be a readout, not regulation.
But T2 is not displayed anywhere. What settings do I need to adjust?
by
FalloutBe
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Repetier
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Pages: 123